UNDERHILL: OH, NO!

THE SAILBOAT IS HEADED RIGHT FOR THE WATERFALL!

QUICK, SOMEBODY SIGNAL FOR HELP.

AH, GOOD WORK, SEMAPHORE SAM, THE WHIRLIGIG SAILOR MAN.

WE'LL SEE HOW YOU BUILD YOU, COMING UP HERE IN "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

ANNOUNCER: MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... [WIND BLOWING] [BIRD SQUAWKS] [THUNDER] [CAR ALARM BLARING] DIFFERENT ANNOUNCER: WHEN THE UNEXPECTED HAPPENS, STATE FARM HAS THE TOOLS TO GET YOU TO A BETTER STATE, PROUD SPONSOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

[CAR HORNS HONKING] [OLD-TIME MUSIC PLAYING] HEY, WELCOME BACK TO "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

I'M ROY UNDERHILL, SO GLAD YOU COULD BE WITH ME, AND SEMAPHORE SAM THE SAILOR MAN WHO SIGNALS AWAY, UH, WHEN HE'S IN THE WIND.

NOW, HERE IN THE SHOP, I HAVE TO USE, UH, OUR WIND GENERATOR TO MAKE HIM BE A TRUE WHIRLIGIG, A TRUE WHIRLIGIG.

HE WHIRLS HIS ARMS ABOUT, AND HE GIGS BACK AND FORTH, AND HE IS A--ACTUALLY THE OLDER STYLE OF WHIRLIGIG AND--AND A--A RARE ONE, TOO.

THE KIND YOU USUALLY SEE IS THIS, UH, MORE DIRECT, MECHANICAL ONE WHERE THE PROPELLER FACES INTO THE WIND.

IT HAS A CRANK AND ANIMATES A FIGURE, SO THERE'S AN ANIMATED WHIRLIGIG, AGAIN, MADE BY AN OLD, DEAR FRIEND, UH, PASSED ON-- UH, ANDY LUNDY.

ANDY LUNDY MADE THIS GUY JUST WORK, PLANING AWAY, AND HE ALSO HAD THE, UH, WONDERFUL BOOK THAT SHOWED ME HOW TO MAKE, UH, SEMAPHORE SAM, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA WORK ON, BUT LOOK.

SEE HOW THIS ONE WORKS HERE.

YOU CAN SEE THE--THE TAIL VANE, UH, KEEPS IT POINTED INTO THE WIND.

THE PROPELLER GOES AROUND, AND THE CRANKSHAFT MAKES THE ANIMATED MOTION.

ON SEMAPHORE SAM, HE PIVOTS, ACTUALLY, DOWNWIND, AND SO HIS PIVOT POINT IS ON THE UPWIND SIDE.

THE ARMS ARE ON THE DOWNWIND SIDE, SO THERE'S A LOT OF GEOMETRY, UH, JUST A LOT OF NUANCE TO GETTING HIM GOING, SO WE'RE GONNA SEE HOW TO MAKE HIM AND HOW TO GET THAT BALANCE RIGHT.

NOW, IT'S ALL IN ANDY LUNDY'S BOOKS.

THEY'RE STILL OUT THERE.

THEY'LL BE IN PRINT FOREVER BECAUSE THEY'RE-- HE DID THE MOST ON WHIRLIGIGS THAT, UH, LEFT A WONDERFUL LEGACY FOR US, SO ANYWAY, SEMAPHORE SAM, LET'S SEE IF I'VE GOT ONE-- WELL, HERE.

LET'S LOOK AT THIS ONE HERE.

I'VE GOT A LOT OF, UH, PROTOTYPES OF HIM, UH, WORKING AWAY, JUST, UH, 3 BLOCKS OF WOOD, AND YOU CAN SEE THE PIVOT POINT BACK HERE IS BEHIND THAT CENTER LINE.

DO YOU SEE HOW THAT'S BEHIND THE CENTER LINE?

WELL, THE ARM PIVOT POINT UP HERE IS AHEAD OF THE CENTER LINE, AND THEY-- HE FACES DOWNWIND, UH, WHEN HE WORKS.

SEE, IF YOU LOOK AT THESE ARMS, THEY'RE ACTUALLY JUST A PROPELLER.

UH, FROM THE SIDE, IF YOU SEE THEM, SEE HOW THEY'RE A PROPELLER, UH, JUST ONE PROPELLER GOING AROUND WITH THE SA-- GOING THE SAME DIRECTION, BUT, BECAUSE OF IMBALANCES, HE MOVES BACK AND FORTH LIKE THAT.

IT'S GREAT, SO WE'RE GONNA SEE, ACTUALLY, HOW TO TURN, UH, THIS FIGURE ON THE LATHE.

YOU CAN SEE HOW, IF I LOOK AT THE PAINTED, UH, SEMAPHORE SAM, UH, IT'S THE SAME THING.

IT'S JUST, UH, PAINT ADDS A LOT.

UH, THE FIGURE'S ACTUALLY TURNED ON THE LATHE.

LET ME TAKE APART THESE BEARINGS, UH, RIGHT HERE.

IN FACT, WE'LL GET AN ARM FREE, AND I JUST-- "WAAH!

HELP!

MY ARM!

LOOK OUT."

UH, IT'S THREADED RIGHT THERE, SO I ACTUALLY TOOK BRASS ROD, 3/16 OF AN INCH.

UH, WE HAVE A WASHER ON THERE, AND THE BRASS ROD IS TRACKING THROUGH, UH, TUBING RIGHT HERE.

YOU CAN SEE HOW THERE'S BRASS TUBING THAT JUST FITS AROUND, UH, THE OUTS-- UH, THE OUTSIDE OF THE, UH, THREADED ARM ROD, SO YOU CAN BUY THESE, OF COURSE, AT, UH, THE HARDWARE STORE, THE ROD--THE ROD AND THE SHAFT OF THE, UH, TUBING THAT FITS RIGHT OVER IT, AND THEN YOU MAY NEED TO, UH, THREAD THE END WITH A LITTLE TAP AND, UH, UH, DIE SET RIGHT HERE.

ALL RIGHT, BUT LET'S GO ON WITH THE WOOD NOW BECAUSE THAT'S WHERE IT'S AT.

WE'VE GOT JUST 3 BLOCKS OF WOOD THAT WE NEED-- UH, THE TWO ARMS HERE AND THE BODY, AND THAT'S GONNA MAKE, UH, SEMAPHORE SAM, UH, WORK JUST FINE, SO WE'VE GOT THE TWO ARMS LIKE THAT.

THEY'RE GONNA BE SET DOWN THERE ON THE ROD AND PIVOT AROUND, SO I'M GONNA FIND THE CENTERS ON THIS PIECE RIGHT HERE TO START, AND CAREFUL LAYOUT, I HAVE LEARNED THE HARD WAY, IS, UH, THE KEY TO GETTING THIS TO WORK RIGHT, SO I'M GONNA FIND THE CENTERS, UH, BY TESTING-- LET'S SEE IF I'VE GOT THE GAUGE SET.

YEAH.

IT'S CLOSE ENOUGH.

OK, SO IF THE LINES ARE REAL CLOSE, I'LL JUST KEEP WITH IT THERE AND SAW IN BETWEEN THEM.

I'M ACTUALLY GONNA SAW THOSE LINES TO PUT IT IN THE LATHE.

ANDY DID NOT TURN THIS FIGURE ON A LATHE BECAUSE HE KNEW HOW TO CARVE-- I'M DUMB; I CAN'T CARVE FOR BEANS-- UH, BUT THE TURNING REALLY HELPED ROUGH IT IN, AND THAT'S, UH, AN OLD TRADITION IN TOYMAKING.

YOU TURN, UH, THE FIGURES, UH, QUITE A INTERESTING, UH, HISTORY OF WOOD TURNING IN TOY MAKING, SO I DON'T FEEL TOO BAD.

THERE WE GO.

THERE'S OUR--OUR CENTERS.

NOW I'M GONNA TAKE THE, UH, BIT HERE, AND, UH, THE LI--LITTLE DRILL, AND I'M GONNA DO THAT GROUND-- THE PIVOT HOLE THAT IT TURNS ON VERTICALLY, JUST DO A LITTLE STARTING HOLE A QUARTER-INCH BEHIND, SO I'M STANDING ON THE UPWIND SIDE HERE, AND THERE'S JUST A LITTLE BIT OF A STARTING HOLE RIGHT THERE JUST A QUARTER-INCH BACK, AND THAT'S ALL I'M GONNA DO.

I'LL SHOW YOU THAT, HOW THAT LOOKS RIGHT THERE, SO YOU CAN SEE HOW THAT'S A QUARTER-INCH BACK.

NOW I'M GONNA SAW THESE LINES, UH, SO THAT IT WILL GO IN THE LATHE.

I'M ACTUALLY GONNA BORE THAT HOLE ON THE LATHE AND YOU'LL SEE HOW THE LATHE WHEN IT'S DRILLING MAKES IT A LOT, UH, MORE ACCURATE.

SO HERE'S A KEY THING WHEN YOU-- WHEN YOU'RE MAKING THESE-- UH, AGAIN, I LEARNED THIS BY GETTING EAGER AND SAYING I'LL CARVE THE FIGURE AND THEN PUT THE HOLES THROUGH, UH, BECAUSE I WANTED TO SEE IF I COULD CARVE.

UH, NO.

PUT THE HOLES THROUGH BEFORE, UH, YOU DO ANY CARVING BECAUSE, AS YOU CAN SEE, I'M GONNA PUT THE ARM THROUGH FOR THE ARM PIVOT HERE, RIGHT?

THERE'S OUR BOTTOM, AND THAT HAS TO GO ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE CENTER LINE, SO I'M GONNA GET THAT CENTER LINE RUN DOWN HERE.

ALL RIGHT, SO THERE'S THE CENTER LINE.

NOW, UH, HERE, UH, BECAUSMY PIVOT HOLE IS ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE CENTER LINE HERE-- IT'S ON THIS SIDE OF THE CENTER LINE-- I'M GONNA PUT THE ARM PIVOT HOLE ON THE FRONT SIDE, SO NOW THIS GOES OVER HERE.

I'M GONNA PUT THIS ON THE LITTLE DRILL PRESS, AND THE TABLE WILL HOLD IT SQUARE 90 DEGREES, AND SO WE SHOULD COME OUT AT THE SAME POINT ON THE OTHER SIDE, SO, AGAIN, JUST--JUST SHY OF THE CENTER JUST SHY OF A QUARTER-INCH FORWARD HAS BEEN WORKING FOR ME.

UH, ANDY LUNDY, WHEN MAKING THESE, HE EXPERIMENTED ALL KIND TO GET THESE THINGS TO WORK AND, AGAIN, SAID THESE ARE PROBABLY THE MOST CHALLENGING WHIRLIGIGS TO MAKE.

ALL RIGHT.

NOW, IT BOTTOMED OUT WITH THE TRAVEL OF MY DRILL PRESS, SO I'M JUST GONNA LIFT UP AND WITH THIS HAND-CRANKED DRILL PRESS, UH, FEED IT UPWARDS UNTIL THE DRILL COMES THROUGH-- THERE WE GO; OK-- AND, UH, BACK IT OUT.

NOW, YOU'RE GONNA SEE ME DO ALL KINDS OF THINGS WITH THESE HAND-OPERATED TOOLS THAT IF YOU HAVE A, UH-- A MACHINE LIKE THIS THAT'S POWERED BY WIND OR WATER, UH, YOU COULD GET BADLY HURT IF YOU DO SOME OF THESE THINGS, BUT I'M WORKING WITH HAND--HAND TOOLS.

OK, SO I GOT THE HOLES THROUGH.

I'M GONNA TAKE NOW THE BIT OUT AND TAKE IT TO THE LATHE, ALL RIGHT, AND WE WILL BORE THE BOTTOM HOLE FIRST.

WE'LL DO THAT PIVOT HOLE, JUST GET THAT BALANCE JUST RIGHT, UH, SO I HAVE REPLACED THE DRIVE CENTER DOWN HERE WITH A CHUCK ON THIS.

THIS IS A 1874 BARNES NUMBER 3 LATHE, AND THERE YOU CAN SEE MY OFFSET RIGHT THERE, AND YOU PUT THAT RIGHT ON THAT BIT AND THEN DO THE SAME OFFSET UP HERE ON THE, UH, CENTER, THE TAILSTOCK CENTER, AND I GOT TO GET IT ACCURATELY POSITIONED, SO I'M DOING THAT SAME OFFSET, SO NOW IT'S LOCKED IN PLACE.

THE WOOD IS PITCHED BETWEEN THE DRILL BIT BACK HERE AND THE CENTER DOWN HERE, AND AS I TURN THE LATHE, I'LL START TO FEED IT BACKWARDS, SO I'M FEEDING WITH THE TAILSTOCK, JUST MOVING THE BLOCK OF WOOD BACK INTO THE DRILL BIT.

NOW IT CAN COME FORWARD, AND IT'S JUST A VERY ACCURATE WAY TO--OOP!

HA HA!

WELL, IT WORKED WELL-- UH, BORE THE HOLE, UH, RIGHT THROUGH THERE, BUT I'M SURE THAT IT'S RIGHT ALONG THE AX-- BEHIND THE AXIS OF THIS BLOCK OF WOOD, SO NOW THIS BLOCK IS READY TO GO INTO THE LATHE FOR THE TURNING PART, SO I'M GONNA REPLACE NOW THAT TAILS--UH, THAT, UH-- IN THE TAILSTOCK, PUT THE DRIVE CENTER IN.

WE'VE GOT THE CHUCK OUT.

LINE UP THOSE SQUARES ACROSS AND THEN BE VERY CAREFUL TO ALIGN THIS JUST RIGHT HERE.

REALLY WANT TO GET THIS, UH, CENTERED.

I HAVE DONE THIS A FEW TIMES AND HAD IT NOT PERFECTLY CENTERED, AND THERE WAS JUST-- UH, IT CAUSES PROBLEMS.

THERE.

THERE WE GO.

OK, SO NOW YOU CAN SEE THE WOOD IS GONNA SPIN.

I'M GONNA CH--OOP.

I WAS OUT.

I GOT TO ALIGN THAT A LITTLE BETTER THERE, A LOT BETTER.

ALL RIGHT.

FEED THAT IN TIGHT.

THIS HAS REALLY GOT TO DRIVE THIS WOOD AND NOT SLIP OUT.

ALL RIGHT.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW I'M GONNA SET THE TOOL REST UP TO CLEAR THE SQUARETOCK, OR RECTANGULAR STOCK, THERE, AND WE'LL START, UH, ROUGHING IN, SO I'M GONNA ROUGH IN WITH THE GOUGE, JUST RUNNING ALONG, TAKING OFF THE CORNERS, SO DO ABOUT 3-INCH LENGTH AT A TIME... MAKING SURE THAT I HAVE A DIAGONAL, UH, CONNECTION OF WOOD AND EDGE.

YOU THINK ABOUT IT, WHEN YOUR SPINDLE-TURNING, WHICH IS WHAT WE'RE DOING... YOU'RE ALWAYS WORKING WOOD ACROSS THE GRAIN, SO THAT DIAGONAL SHEARING CUT IS WHAT MAKES IT WORK, SO THERE WE GO.

THAT'S GOOD TO GO.

ALL RIGHT.

GOOD.

NOW I'M GONNA USE A PARTING TOOL.

I'M GONNA CHANGE TOOLS TO THIS ONE-- THIS IS A PARTING TOOL-- AND SET IT RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE TO GET THE BELT LINE... [CHATTERING] AND I'LL HIT--LISTEN FOR THE SOUND TO CHANGE THAT TELLS ME I'M CUTTING FULL AROUND.

[THRUMMING] THERE YOU GO.

HEAR HOW IT SMOOTHED OUT?

NOW I'M GONNA MOVE DOWN HERE AND DO THE SHOES... [CHATTERING] NOT SO DEEP, SO WE STILL HEAR THAT CHATTERING NOISE, AND NOW LET'S--LET'S SEE WHERE THE, UH, SHOULDER PIVOT LINE IS, RIGHT THERE, SO HERE'S THE HOLE FOR THE, UH, SHOULDER, UH, PIVOT.

I'M GONNA DO THE NECK NOW RIGHT HERE... [CHATTERING] SO THE BELT IN THE MIDDLE AND THE HEAD ABOUT, EH, A THIRD OF THE WAY DOWN FROM THAT--THAT HALF, SO THERE'S THE NECK, AND HERE IT GOES SMOOTH, ALL RIGHT, AND NOW WE'LL START, UH, BRINGING IN THE SHAPE HERE, SO YOU'RE GONNA START WITH THE HEAD.

JUST BRING IT DOWN FULLY ROUND.

AGAIN, SEE THOSE SPIRAL SHAVINGS COMING OFF.

[CHATTERING] LISTEN FOR THE SOUND TO CHANGE.

UH, I'M GONNA CUT THE SHOULDER HERE A LITTLE BIT DOWN INTO THE NECK AND GIVE MYSELF A LITTLE MORE ROOM.

WHEN THAT SOUNDS SMOOTH, IT'S ALMOST THERE.

[THRUMMING] THERE WE GO, I THINK.

LET'S SEE TO SEE IF I WAS RIGHT THERE.

YOU CAN SEE A LITTLE BIT OF A FLAT RIGHT THERE BUT GENERALLY, UH, TRUE ALL THE WAY AROUND.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW I'LL GO AHEAD AND DO THE JACKET ALMOST TO THE--WHERE I CUT THE, UH, WAISTLINE THERE, ALL RIGHT, AND HERE, THE TROUSERS CUT DOWN TO THE KNEE, AND HE'S A LITTLE BOWLEGGED FROM ALL THOSE MONTHS AT SEA.

YOU KNOW HOW THAT IS.

THERE YOU ARE... [RATTLES] AND THEN DOWN BELOW THE--OOP.

NOW, I HEARD A RATTLY SOUND.

I'M GONNA TIGHTEN THIS UP AGAIN, AND WE'LL CUT DOWN BELOW THE KNEE DOWN TO THE SHOES AND STOP, AND THERE YOU GO.

YOU CAN SEE IT'S JUST TURNING.

I'M TRYING TO TURN A HUMAN FORM, AND IT WOULD--IT HELPS A LITTLE BIT TO GET THINGS IN.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW THAT'S FINE.

I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND USE A SKEW CHISEL AND JUST TRUE IT UP A LITTLE BIT, SO HERE WE GO FROM THE SHOULDERS DOWN.

I'LL JUST IRON THE JACKET.

THERE YOU GO, ALL RIGHT?

WE'LL PRESS THE TROUSERS DOWN HERE.

ALL RIGHT.

YEAH?

ALL RIGHT, AND PRESS THE UPPER PART OF THE TROUSERS, GET THEM GOOD, SHIPSHAPE, AND THERE WE GO... ALL RIGHT, UP TO THE BELT, AND THEN LET'S FINALLY-- LET'S PUT A POLISH ON THE SHOES.

HEH, SO THIS SKEW CHISEL CUTTING WITH A VERY NICE, FLAT, DIAGONAL AND THE BEVEL RUBBING MAKES A VERY SMOOTH SURFACE, BUT NOW WE-- ONE THING WE DON'T NEED SMOOTH IS RIGHT HERE.

WE NEED TO GET THIS DOWN TO A HUMAN FACE, AND I'M GOING TO USE A LITTLE GOUGE HERE, THIS LITTLE GOUGE, UH, TO-- LIKE THE ONE I STARTED OUT WITH TO CUT A FACE IN PROFILE, SO I'LL DO A CHIN HERE.

I'LL FINISH THAT SHOULDER OVER A LITTLE BIT MORE, AND I'M GONNA JUST LOOK AT THIS TOP EDGE AS I CUT, SO THERE'S THE CHIN, AND HE'S A RUGGED FELLA THERE, AND YOU MAKE THE STRONG FEATURES THERE, SO CUT IN WHERE THE MOUTH GOES.

THAT IS THE PEAK OF THE NOSE, THE TIP OF THE NOSE.

HERE'S THE BRIDGE OF THE NOSE COMING IN UP TO HIS EYE.

YEAH.

ALL RIGHT.

YEAH.

UH, UH, JUST KEEP LOOKING AT THAT PROFILE AND SAYING, "CAN I SEE--" I'M GONNA PUT THE TOOL REST IN A LITTLE BIT BETTER.

"CAN I SEE A HUMAN PROFILE THERE?"

I GOT TO DO THE SAILOR'S CAP, OF COURSE... AND VERY NAUTICAL.

YEAH, AND THERE'S HIS FOREHEAD AND HIS HEAD COMING BACK A LITTLE BIT.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW THIS-- HA HA HA!-- IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE MUCH, UH, WHEN I FINISH IT UP.

LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT THIS LOOKS LIKE HERE.

LET ME GET THAT OUT OF THE LATHE, AND YOU CAN SEE IT LOOKS KIND OF GOOFY, UH, LIKE, "WHAT IS THIS?

THIS LOOKS LIKE A HONEY SPURTLE," BUT THERE YOU CAN SEE BASICALLY A HUMAN FORM.

WHAT I GOT TO DO IS CUT AWAY EVERYTHING THAT'S NOT, UH, THE NOSE AND THE, UH, UH, CHIN AND SO FORTH, SO TAKE HIM BACK OVER HERE AND DO THE WORK NOW.

IT'S A LITTLE BIT FUZZY ON THAT FACE.

I HAD SOME CROSS-GRAIN RIGHT THERE, UH, BUT MAYBE THAT'LL WORK BECAUSE HE JUST HADN'T HAD A CHANCE TO SHAVE HERE, SO I'M GONNA CUT DOWN THIS WAY TO CLEAR THE NOSE, SO TO SPEAK, UH, AND, UH, TO MAKE THE CHIN STAND OUT AND THEN SAME HERE, SO WE'VE GOT A SMALLER NOSE AND A BIGGER CHIN BY COMING OUT LIKE THAT.

NOW I'LL LEAVE THE HEAD UP, TAKE THIS CH--UH, CHIS-- JUST FLAT CHISEL NOW, AND IT'LL HELP ME TAKE AWAY THESE OTHER PARTS HERE.

YEAH, AND YOU CAN SEE KIND OF A HUMAN FORM COMING OUT.

IT'LL ACTUALLY TAKE OFF THIS UPPER PART, AS WELL, BACK HERE SO HIS HEAD I CAN CARVE TO A BETTER ROUND, AND I PROBABLY WON'T DO MUCH MORE.

I'LL LEAVE THE BACK PART BECAUSE THAT'LL LOOK LIKE A SAILOR'S, UM, UH, TARRED PIGTAIL, AND THAT'S WHY THEY CALL IT OLD TAR THERE, JACK TAR.

THERE WE ARE.

ALL RIGHT.

LOOKS LIKE I GOT KIND OF A LITTLE WEIRDNESS HAPPENING RIGHT THERE.

LET'S TAKE-- "AAH!

HELP ME!"

HERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW THERE YOU SEE WE'VE GOT A-- A KIND OF FACE OUT OF HIM, UH, WITH A HAT.

I'LL SHOW YOU THIS HERE NEXT TO OUR PAINTED VERSION HERE.

WE'LL PUT HIM UP BESIDE OUR PAINTED, UH, MR., UH, UH, SEMAPHORE SAM, AND YOU'LL SEE, UH, HOW THE FIGURES-- HA HA!

SEE, PAINT IMPROVES IT A--A LOT RIGHT THERE, SO COME ON AROUND, SEMAPHORE SAM.

THERE YOU GO.

LOOK BACK.

THERE YOU ARE.

SO YOU CAN SEE THAT HELPS A LOT, BUT IT GIVES US A LITTLE BIT OF A PROFILE, UH, RIGHT THERE.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW WE GOT TO DO SOMETHING WITH THE LEGS HERE, GONNA SEPARATE THEM, AND, UH, HERE WE GO.

"AH, MR."--HA HA!

"AH, YOU EXPECT ME TO TALK, GOLDFINGER?"

HA HA HA!

"AH, NO, MR.

BOND.

I EXPECT YOU TO DIE."

HA HA HA!

SO JUST, UH, CUT THE SAW CUT THERE AND THEN CHISEL AWAY, ALL RIGHT, AND THAT COMPLETES IT.

WE CAN DO THE SAME THING ON THE BACK SIDE.

WE GOT THE LEGS, UH, NOW SEPARATED THERE, AND WE CAN MAKE OUR FACE.

YEAH.

THAT'S READY TO GO.

THE ARMS ARE THROUGH.

NOW WE GOT TO DO THE, UH-- THE PIVOTS FOR THE ARMS.

NOW WE GOT TO DO THE ARMS, AND WE HAVE, UH, CUT THEM THROUGH ALREADY, AND THEY'RE GONNA MOVE AROUND AND SIGNAL.

I WANT TO, UH, DO THE ARMPITS FIRST BY A TRICK METHOD HERE.

IT SAVES A LITTLE TIME.

PUT THESE TWO GUYS IN THE VISE TOGETHER.

CLAMP THEM UP.

MAKE SURE THEY'RE ALIGNED, AND USE AN AUGER TO BORE HALF AWAY FROM EACH ONE.

I'LL MAKE SURE I'M POSITIONED ABOUT RIGHT, GET RIGHT ON THE JOINT BETWEEN THE TWO ARMS.

MIGHTY SURPRISING, THE ARMS ARE ACTUALLY SYMMETRICAL, I MEAN, DEAD SYMMETRICAL.

UH, THEY REALLY NEED TO BE THE SAME IN BALANCE AND SHAPE AND EVERYTHING, UH, BUT WHEN THEY'RE REVERSED-- NOW I GOT TO STOP HERE, OK, BECAUSE I FELT THE POINT-- I FELT THE POINT OF THE AUGER COMING THROUGH ON THE OTHER SIDE.

I COULD FEEL IT THERE, AND THAT TELLS ME I GOT TO TURN IT OVER BECAUSE IF I JUST KEPT GOING, IT WOULD BE A ROUGH EXIT THERE, SO THIS AUGER'S NOT QUITE AS SHARP AS IT NEEDS TO BE TO DO THIS WELL.

YOU'LL SEE.

OK. CLAMP IT UP AND THEN PUT IT RIGHT BACK IN WHERE THAT AUGER STARTED TO JUST POKE THROUGH, AND I'LL SEE IF I CAN GET IT TO SCORE.

THE LIPS NEED TO SCORE A LITTLE BIT BETTER.

THERE WE GO.

OK, AND I'LL CLEAN IT UP JUST--OOP!

[AUGER CLATTERS] THAT'S ALL RIGHT.

I GET THEM FREE.

UH, WE'LL CLEAN THIS UP WITH THE GOUGE.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT, SO THAT IS THE ARMPIT FOR EACH OF THE ARMS RIGHT THERE, SO NOW WE'RE GONNA JUST TRIM AWAY THIS PART RIGHT HERE SO YOU GOT TWO NICE, SYMMETRICAL ARMPITS, SO SET THAT UP IN THE VISE, AND I USE A LITTLE BEVEL LIKE THIS SET TO ABOUT ONE AND TWO.

UH, IT'S, UH, THE SLOPE LIKE A-- LIKE A SUPER STEEP DOVETAIL-- UH, ONE AND 3 OR SO-- JUST TO GET THAT ANGLE.

AGAIN, IT'S SOMETHING YOU HAVE TO EXPERIMENT WITH, UH, TO SEE HOW THESE THINGS RUN, BUT I'VE HAD, LIKE, ONE AND 2 1/2, ONE AND 3, AS WE DESCRIBE THE SLOPE, UH, BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, IT'S A PROPELLER.

IT'S A SCREW, UH, ACTION, KIND OF, AND, UH, THIS CUT DOWN HERE, THIS IS WHAT'S GONNA TAKE THE LITTLE FLAGS, SO THE ACTUAL SEMAPHORE FLAG IS GONNA GO INTO THIS CUT, AND IT'LL ENABLE ME TO, UH, MOVE IT UP AND DOWN AND HELP WITH THE BALANCE HERE.

I'VE JUST GOT SOME TIN THAT I CUT OUT-- IT COULD CERTAINLY BE WOOD-- AND I'M GONNA MAKE A SECOND CUT JUST INSIDE OF THAT AND ANGLE DOWN, AND THEN I'LL SPLIT AWAY THE WASTE THERE, AND THIS JUST HELPS YOU GET RID OF A LOT OF THE WOOD, UH, PRIOR TO HAVING TO WHITTLE IT DOWN, SO WE HAVE TO ANGLE IT-- I RAN OUT OF SAW; THERE YOU GO-- AND A LITTLE BIT FROM THIS SIDE, ALL RIGHT, AND THEN I SHOULD BE ABLE TO JUST SPLIT THIS RIGHT CLEAN OFF.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT, SO THAT'S BRINGING THAT PROPELLER ARM DOWN.

FROM HERE, IT'S ALL KNIFE WORK, SO TAKE A KNIFE AND JUST START WORKING IT DOWN, THINNING DOWN THESE ARMS, UH, IN THE SAME PROPELLER SHAPE, AND, AGAIN, IT DOESN'T MATTER, UH, WHICH WAY THE ANGLE, UH, GOES.

AS THE WIND CHANGES, THE--THE DARN DIRECTION ON THE--UH, THE-- FOR THE SWINGING ARMS SEEMS TO CHANGE.

IT'S REALLY UNPREDICTABLE, HARD TO FIGURE OUT, SO WE KEEP THINNING THEM DOWN ON THE SIDES, THINNING DOWN THE UNDERSIDE, AS WELL.

MAKE THESE AS LIGHT AND PROPELLER-SHAPED AS YOU CAN.

I'LL TRIM THIS UPPER SIDE HERE WITH A, UH-- USE--JUST USE A LITTLE PARING GOUGE LIKE THIS, SEE, SO I'VE STILL GOT THOSE CORNERS THERE, SO JUST SHEAR DOWN, SHEAR DOWN, AND THEN THIS WAY, SHEAR DOWN TO MAKE NICE, UH, ROUNDED, UH, BUT STRONG SHOULDERS THERE.

ALL RIGHT.

NOW THE ISSUE IS GONNA BE CONNECTING THIS TO THE, UH, BODY HERE, SO WE'VE GOT TO TAKE THE, UH, PIVOT ARMS AND PUT THEM THROUGH.

LET'S FIND ONE OF THESE.

HERE WE GO.

WE'LL TAKE THIS ONE, AND YOU SEE I'VE BEEN EXPERIMENTING A LOT WITH THESE.

AGAIN, I'VE GOT THE, UH, TUBE THROUGH THERE.

YOU'LL SEE THAT--UH, THE TUBING PART RIGHT THERE, ALL RIGHT, IN THE BODY.

I'VE GOT A WASHER ON OUR THREADED ROD, UH, CUT WITH THE, UH, LITTLE, UM, UH, TAP AND DIE SET THERE, AND I NEED TO THREAD FOR AN INCH, AND I REALIZE, YOU KNOW, I'M DOING WITH, UH--OOP.

I NEEDED A WASHER ON THIS ONE.

I REALIZED THAT ALL I HAD TO DO TO MEASURE DOWN AN INCH WAS TO COUNT-- UM, HOW SHOULD I SAY?-- UH, COUNT 24 TURNS BECAUSE THE DIE IS CUTTING 24 THREADS TO THE INCH, SO 24 TURNS, UH, MADE IT WORK WELL, SO I'M THREADING THIS, AND THERE'S A LITTLE, UNTHREADED PART THAT IT'LL GET ONTO, AND THAT WILL HOLD IT SNUG ENOUGH THERE THAT I CAN-- THERE WE GO-- KEEP THE ARMS LIKE THAT, SO NOW TAKE THE FLAGS, AND THEY'RE ABOUT TWO INCHES SQUARE, AND, UH, THIS IS GONNA BE SEMAPHORE.

THIS IS THE OLD NAUTICAL, UH, UH, SIGNALING SYSTEM.

IN FACT, UH, N-D, THE SIGNALS FOR "N" IS A VERTICAL LINE, AND "D" IS, UH, SPLAYED OUT, THE TWO HANDS DOWN LIKE THAT.

THAT WAS, UH, THE ORIGIN OF THE PEACE SIGN-- NUCLEAR DISARMAMENT, SO THERE WE GO.

WE'LL BALANCE THIS BY JUST TURNING IT AND LETTING THOSE ARMS-- WHEN THEY--IF THEY BOTTOM OUT CONSISTENTLY TO ONE SIDE, WE'LL PULL OUT ON THE FLAG A LITTLE BIT ON THE OTHER END AND THEN TRY IT AGAIN.

GIVE IT A LITTLE-- GIVE IT A LITTLE TAP AND SEE IF IT BOTTOMS AT THE SAME PLACE.

NOW, HERE I HAVE THE FLAGS OPPOSING, BUT THAT LOOKS ALL RIGHT, ALL RIGHT, SO NOW OUR FINAL LITTLE THING THAT WE HAVE TO DO IS TO GET THE PIVOT POINT, AND I HAVE IT PIVOTING ON THAT BALL BEARING, AND YOU CAN SEE IT RIGHT HERE.

THAT SLEEVE GOES UP INSIDE, AND YOU CAN EITHER HAVE A NAIL ON TOP OF THERE.

THERE'S THAT BALL BEARING JUST SITTING UP IN THERE, SO A BALL BEARING ON THE TUBE THAT'S TURNING ON THE SHAFT.

THAT GOES ON BEHIND THE CENTER POINT, AND WE GIVE IT A GO, ALL RIGHT?

WE'LL TEST HIM NOW IN THE WIND TUNNEL AND SEE HOW THEY WORK, AND LET'S SEE WHAT ON EARTH, UH, OUR SEMAPHORE SAM HAS TO SIGNAL TO US, UH, BECAUSE I DO KNOW SEMAPHORE.

I CAN READ IT.

HE'S SIGNALING, "HEY, THAT'S ABOUT ALL THE TIME WE HAVE.

THANKS FOR JOINING US."

THIS HAS BEEN ROY UNDERHILL WITH SEMAPHORE SAM AND FRIEND HERE IN "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.

MAY THE GRAIN BE WITH YOU ALWAYS.

SO LONG.

ANNOUNCER: LEARN MORE ABOUT TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING ON OUR WEBSITE.

YOU CAN FIND US AT PBS.ORG/WOODWRIGHTSSHOP.

ANNOUNCER: MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... [WIND BLOWING] [BIRD SQUAWKS] [THUNDER] [CAR ALARM BLARING] DIFFERENT ANNOUNCER: WHEN THE UNEXPECTED HAPPENS, STATE FARM HAS THE TOOLS TO GET YOU TO A BETTER STATE, PROUD SPONSOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

DIFFERENT ANNOUNCER: BE MORE.

PBS.

DIFFERENT ANNOUNCER: ROY UNDERHILL IS THE AUTHOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S GUIDE: WORKING WOOD WITH EDGE AND WEDGE" AS WELL AS OTHER BOOKS ON TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING, ALL PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA PRESS AND AVAILABLE IN BOOKSTORES AND LIBRARIES.