THE PART OF PITTSBURGH JUST ACROSS THE ALLEGHENY RIVER FROM DOWNTOWN IS WHAT'S KNOWN AS THE NORTH SIDE.

SOMETIMES PEOPLE THINK OF IT AS ONE BIG NEIGHBORHOOD, BUT ACTUALLY, IT INCLUDES ABOUT 20 DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOODS.

Man: ALL THE NEIGHBORHOODS AROUND HERE -- YOU KNOW, SPRING HILL, SPRING GARDEN, TROY HILL, BRIGHTON HEIGHTS -- IT'S ALL NORTH SIDE.

WE HAVE THAT UNIQUE, SPECIAL TOUCH TO THIS CITY.

SEE, WE'RE CONSIDERED INNER-CITY NEIGHBORHOOD, AND I LIKE THAT.

I THINK IT GIVES YOU CHARACTER.

THE TRUTH IS EVERY ONE OF THESE NEIGHBORHOODS IS LITERALLY A LITTLE TOWN.

WITH ALL THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PEOPLE, THERE'S NOTHING LIKE THE NORTH SIDE, BROTHER.

AND IT'S NOT A BORING PLACE TO LIVE.

Sebak: WE WANT TO LOOK AROUND AT SOME OF THE PEOPLE, PLACES, AND THINGS THAT MAKE THIS PART OF TOWN TRULY UNUSUAL.

WE'VE GOT A LOT OF STORIES -- STORIES OF OLD HOUSES...

RELATIVELY NEW MUSEUMS... KETCHUP... AN OLD BALLPARK...

BOTTLES OF BEER... BUG-EYED BIRDS... BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS THAT SURVIVED URBAN RENEWAL...

HOSPITALS... A COUPLE OF FOOD PLACES... AND THE STARS ABOVE.

THEY JUST ALL HAPPEN TO BE ON THE NORTH SIDE.

AND THAT'S WHY WE'RE GOING TO CALL THIS PROGRAM "NORTH SIDE STORY."

YOU KNOW, SOME PITTSBURGHERS LEAVE OUT THE "T-H" AND JUST SAY "NOR SIDE," BUT EVERYBODY KNOWS WHERE YOU MEAN.

"NORTH SIDE STORY" WAS MADE NOW, ONCE UPON A TIME, THERE WAS A CITY CALLED ALLEGHENY, PENNSYLVANIA.

FROM THE LATE 18th TO THE EARLY 20th CENTURY, ALLEGHENY GREW AND PROSPERED JUST ACROSS THE RIVER FROM PITTSBURGH.

BY 1891, ALLEGHENY WAS THE THIRD LARGEST CITY IN PENNSYLVANIA.

IT HAD BECOME A GREAT PLACE TO LIVE AND WORK AND SHOP, AND SOME OF THE RICHEST FAMILIES IN AMERICA BUILT THEIR MANSIONS HERE.

IT HAD A GREAT MARKET HOUSE.

PITTSBURGH WANTED TO ANNEX ITS POPULAR NEIGHBOR, BUT PEOPLE IN ALLEGHENY FOUGHT AGAINST THAT, GOING TWICE TO THE U.S. SUPREME COURT TO STOP IT, BUT ON DECEMBER 9, 1907, PITTSBURGH WON AND FORCED ALLEGHENY TO BECOME PART OF GREATER PITTSBURGH.

ALLEGHENY LOST ITS SEPARATE IDENTITY.

ITS STATELY NAME WAS CHANGED TO THE MORE MUNDANE "NORTH SIDE."

AND PEOPLE HAVE NEVER AGREED ON HOW TO SPELL IT -- ONE WORD OR TWO?

BUT THERE ARE MANY REMINDERS OF OLD ALLEGHENY -- LOTS OF PLACES AND SIGNS THAT STILL CARRY THE OLD CITY'S NAME.

OFFICIALLY, THE CITY OF PITTSBURGH CONSIDERS EVERYTHING THAT WAS ALLEGHENY TO BE THE NORTH SIDE, SO IT'S QUITE A LARGE AREA, ALL ALONG THE NORTH SHORES OF THE OHIO AND THE ALLEGHENY AND WAY UP INTO THE HILLS.

BUT WE'RE GOING TO START NEAR THE CENTER OF OLD ALLEGHENY IN WEST PARK.

IF YOU LOOK JUST THIS SIDE OF THE BLUE DOME THAT'S ON TOP OF THE OLD BUHL PLANETARIUM, YOU'LL SEE THE GREENERY THAT MAKES UP WEST PARK.

THERE, UNDER THE SYCAMORE TREES, EVERY DAY FROM APRIL TILL LATE OCTOBER, YOU'LL FIND GUS KALARIS AND HIS LITTLE ORANGE CART WHERE HE MAKES ICEE BALLS.

Kalaris: "ICE BALLS" IS WHAT MOST OF THE PEOPLE CALL THEM.

BUT TRUE NORTH SIDERS CALL THEM "ICEE BALLS."

Sebak: THEY'RE NOTHING MORE THAN FRESH, HAND-SHAVED ICE WITH BRIGHTLY COLORED FLAVORINGS ON TOP.

ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS ABOUT STOPPING HERE IS THAT GUS IS A BIT OF A HISTORY BUFF.

THE HISTORY OF THE ICE BALL, I'VE BEEN TOLD, IS DURING THE DEPRESSION, PEOPLE COULDN'T AFFORD ICE CREAM, AND SOMEBODY CAME UP WITH THIS IDEA.

FOR 3 CENTS, THEY COULD GET AN ICE-REFRESHED DRINK, WHERE ICE CREAM COST A DIME AT THAT TIME, I GUESS.

AND A SMALL BAG OF POPCORN.

POPCORN, TOO?

Sebak: HE ALSO SELLS SMALL BAGS OF PEANUTS AND BOXES OF POPCORN WITH BUTTER -- LOTS OF BUTTER, IF YOU ASK FOR IT.

HE ALWAYS ADDS THE BUTTER TWICE -- HALFWAY UP AND AGAIN ON TOP.

Kalaris: WE'VE ALWAYS MADE OUR POPCORN LIKE THIS, FROM WHEN MY DAD HAD IT.

YOU PUT THE BUTTER ON THE BOTTOM, AND THAT'S WHY THEY COME BACK, AND THEY SORT OF LIKE IT.

THAT'S 70 YEARS OLD -- THAT LITTLE POT THERE.

WE'VE ALWAYS DONE IT THIS SAME WAY.

OF COURSE, AT ONE TIME, THIS BOX HERE ONLY SOLD FOR A NICKEL.

TODAY IT'S A DOLLAR.

Sebak: THE KALARIS FAMILY FIRST GOT INTO THIS BUSINESS BACK IN 1934, WHEN GUS WAS JUST A KID.

HE EVENTUALLY TOOK OVER THE PLACE WHEN HIS FATHER DIED IN '51, BUT MOM STAYED AND HELPED, AND LOTS OF PEOPLE KNOW THIS PLACE AS GUS AND YAYA'S.

Kalaris: EVERYBODY KEPT CALLING MY MOTHER "YAYA," WHICH IS "GRANDMA" IN GREEK, SO WE JUST PUT THE NAME YAYA UP THERE TO GIVE HER A LITTLE PUBLICITY, AND I PUT MY NAME NEXT TO IT, AND THAT WAS IT.

THAT'S HOW IT BECAME "GUS AND YAYA'S" IN 1956.

WELL, WE GREW UP ON THE NORTH SIDE, AND I'LL BE 40 THIS SUMMER.

WE'VE BEEN COMING HERE FOR 40 YEARS.

MY FOLKS BROUGHT US HERE.

I'LL FIND WAYS TO COME OVER HERE TO GET AN ICE BALL, POPCORN, YOU KNOW.

WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE?

IT'S WONDERFUL!

I USED TO BUY TWO LARGE, BUT I CUT DOWN.

I THINK I HAVE ALREADY HAD ABOUT 300,000 PEANUTS ALREADY.

THEY MAKE YOUR HEAD COLD.

[ LAUGHING ] EAT IT REAL FAST, IT, LIKE -- IT, LIKE, HURTS UP IN HERE.

AND MY KIDS ALWAYS LOVED TO COME HERE.

NOW I'M BRINGING MY GRANDKIDS.

THE ICE IS MELTING IN MY THROAT, AND IT'S SO COLD.

THIS IS JUST SUMMERTIME FOR ME.

THIS MAKES -- THIS IS A PART OF MY SUMMER.

I JUST LOVE GUS.

GUS IS AWESOME.

GUS IS THE ICEE BALL MAN.

HE'S THE BOMB.

YEAH.

HERE'S ANOTHER GUY, EVERYDAY GUY.

THAT'S KEITH OVER HERE.

HE WORKS FOR WESTINGHOUSE, AND HE STOPS EVERY DAY.

Sebak: LOTS OF PEOPLE STOP EVERY DAY.

GUS AND YAYA'S IS A GATHERING SPOT.

IT'S SOCIAL AS WELL AS SWEET.

THANK YOU.

THANKS FOR COMING.

AND GUS USED TO TAKE HOME MOVIES AROUND HERE, INCLUDING A PRESIDENTIAL MOTORCADE IN THE EARLY '60s.

Kalaris: KENNEDY PASSED HERE UP ON THE STREET UP THERE, AND HE HAD THAT THERE MAROON CAR THAT HE WAS SHOT IN.

AND THIS PLACE WAS JUST JAMMED WITH PEOPLE.

Sebak: WELL, KENNEDY DIDN'T STOP FOR AN ICEE BALL, BUT HE'S JUST ONE OF MANY PEOPLE WHO'VE PASSED THROUGH WEST PARK.

WEST PARK WAS ORIGINALLY PART OF THE COMMONS FOR OLD ALLEGHENY CITY.

THE COMMONS WERE PUBLIC GRAZING LANDS AROUND THE CENTER OF THE TOWN.

TODAY, WHAT'S LEFT OF THE COMMONS IS THE PARK THAT SURROUNDS ALLEGHENY CENTER ON THREE SIDES.

ELIZA SMITH BROWN IS A HISTORIAN WHO WROTE A REPORT ON THE COMMONS FOR THE GARDEN CLUB OF ALLEGHENY COUNTY.

SHE SAYS THAT BY THE MID-19th CENTURY, THE COMMONS HAD DETERIORATED PRETTY BADLY.

Brown: AND BECAUSE OF THE PARKS MOVEMENT THAT WAS GOING ON ALL OVER THE EAST COAST IN MAJOR CITIES, THE CITY FATHERS GOT THE INSPIRATION TO DEVELOP A PARK RIGHT HERE ON THESE 84 ACRES.

Sebak: AND SO THE FIRST URBAN PARK IN SOUTHWESTERN PENNSYLVANIA WAS DESIGNED BY THE FIRM OF MITCHELL AND GRANT THAT HAD WORKED ON CENTRAL PARK IN NEW YORK CITY.

THEIR DESIGNS INCLUDED NATURALISTIC ELEMENTS AS WELL AS FORMAL.

Brown: THERE WERE RULES FOR CONDUCT IN THE PARK.

THERE WERE HUNDREDS OF BENCHES, SOME OF THEM RESERVED FOR LADIES ONLY.

Sebak: OVER THE YEARS, CHANGES WERE MADE.

PEOPLE LEARNED TO SWIM AND RENTED BOATS AT THE OLD BOATHOUSE THAT'S NOT THERE ANYMORE.

MOST OF THE PARK'S CURRENT LOOK WAS ESTABLISHED IN THE 1960s.

DOES ELIZA HAVE A FAVORITE SPOT IN THE PARK?

MY FAVORITE SPOTS ARE NO LONGER THERE, UNFORTUNATELY.

LAKE ELIZABETH AS IT ONCE WAS WOULD HAVE BEEN ONE OF MY FAVORITE SPOTS.

IT WAS PART OF THE ORIGINAL PLAN AND WAS THE FREQUENT SUBJECT OF POSTCARDS AT THE TIME.

Sebak: IT'S TOUGH TO FIND A POSTCARD OF THE PARK TODAY, BUT IT'S STILL A GOOD PLACE TO WALK AROUND, TO HANG OUT AND RELAX.

THERE'S A FAMOUS BRONZE STATUE OF A DEER THAT EVERYBODY GETS THEIR PICTURE TAKEN ON.

AND IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR EXOTIC, WELL, THE NATIONAL AVIARY IS RIGHT THERE IN THE PARK.

IT'S ONE OF THE BEST PLACES ON EARTH TO SEE A NUMBER OF RARE AND BEAUTIFUL BIRDS.

Woman: ABOUT 470.

IT FLUCTUATES UP AND DOWN, BUT ABOUT 470.

Sebak: MANY PITTSBURGHERS HAVEN'T BEEN HERE SINCE THEY WERE IN GRADE SCHOOL, BUT THIS PLACE HAS HAD THE HONOR OF BEING THE NATIONAL AVIARY SINCE 1993.

Woman: WE ARE NATIONAL IN NAME ONLY.

WE DON'T GET ANY MONEY FROM THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT.

WE JUST KIND OF ASKED FOR THE NAME A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO, AND THEY GAVE IT TO US BECAUSE WE ARE PRETTY MUCH THE ONLY FACILITY LIKE THIS IN THE COUNTRY.

YOU SEE YOUR REFLECTION?

IS THAT COOL?

Sebak: TERI GRENDZINSKI IS ON THE ANIMAL CARE STAFF HERE.

SO WHAT, WHERE, WHY?

TERI AND HER COLLEAGUES HAVE TO DEAL WITH BIRDS WHO TALK AND SQUAWK AND LOOK OUTRAGEOUS.

SOME OF THE BIRDS LIVE IN CAGES, SOME IN SPECIAL DISPLAYS WITH ONLY VERY THIN WIRES BETWEEN THE FEATHERED FRIENDS AND US RUBBERNECKERS.

BUT THERE ARE ALSO ROOMS WHERE BIRDS CAN FLY AROUND, INCLUDING, AT ONE END OF THE BUILDING, THIS HUGE SPACE CALLED THE NEOTROPICAL MARSH ROOM.

IT'S FULL OF LUSH GREENERY AND WHO KNOWS HOW MANY KINDS OF BIRDS ALL LIVING TOGETHER.

THIS ROOM?

UH, 127.

OR ABOUT THERE.

ACTUALLY, WE PROBABLY HAVE A FEW MORE BECAUSE I THINK WE'VE GOT TWO BABIES IN HERE NOW THAT WE KNOW ABOUT, SO... Sebak: WELL, NOT ALL THE BABIES ARE OUT ON DISPLAY.

JIM BONNER, THE CURATOR OF BIRDS, TOOK US WHERE YOU DON'T NORMALLY GET TO GO.

OKAY.

WE'RE GOING INTO OUR OFF-EXHIBIT BREEDING FACILITY.

AND IN HERE WE HAVE SEVERAL SETS OF BIRDS THAT WE'RE SETTING UP FOR BREEDING.

THIS IS DEDICATED BREEDING SPACE, DIFFERENT FROM WHAT WE USE ON EXHIBIT.

DOWN IN HERE, WE HAVE A COUPLE PAIR OF RING-NECKED DOVES.

WE USE THESE AS FOSTER DOVES FOR RAISING OTHER BIRDS.

AND RIGHT NOW, THIS ONE OVER HERE IS SITTING ON A -- HOW YOU DOING?

CAN I BORROW YOU?

I KNOW YOU'RE PRETTY PROTECTIVE.

COME HERE.

HOW WE DOING?

RIGHT NOW IT'S SITTING ON A BABY MAGNIFICENT GROUND DOVE, OR ALSO CALLED THE PHEASANT PIGEON.

AND IT HATCHED YESTERDAY.

THIS PAIR HAS RAISED A COUPLE OF THEIR OWN.

THE SPECIES THEY'RE RAISING IS AN ENDANGERED SPECIES.

IT COMES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA.

Sebak: BUT THIS OFF-EXHIBIT AREA IS NOT JUST FOR BREEDING.

IT'S ALSO A GET-ACQUAINTED AREA FOR BIRDS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

Bonner: THESE ARE SILVERY-CHEEKED HORNBILLS.

THEY'RE PRETTY FLIGHTY.

THESE ARE RED-THROATED BEE EATERS.

Sebak: YOU KNOW, IT'S GREAT THAT JIM KNOWS ALL THESE SPECIES, BUT WE HAD TO WONDER -- MAYBE HE'S BEEN SPENDING TOO MUCH TIME UP HERE.

[ CLICKING TONGUE ] SPENDING TIME AT THE AVIARY CAN BE PRETTY ENCHANTING.

BUT IT'S ONLY SINCE THE EARLY 1950s THAT YOU'VE BEEN ABLE TO COME HERE AND SEE ALL THESE BIRDS.

FROM 1897 TILL 1948, THE ALLEGHENY PHIPPS CONSERVATORY WAS HERE -- AN EXOTIC GARDEN LIKE THE OTHER PHIPPS IN OAKLAND.

BUT FOR MOST OF THE 1800s, THERE WAS A PRISON ON THIS SITE -- THE WESTERN PENITENTIARY.

AND IN THE AVIARY, THERE'S A HISTORICAL MARKER THAT THE DAUGHTERS OF THE CONFEDERACY SET UP IN 1931 BECAUSE DURING THE CIVIL WAR, CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS WERE IMPRISONED HERE.

WELL, THE RED-CROWNED CRANES WHO LIVE IN THERE WITH THE PLAQUE HATE IT WHEN ANYONE INVADES THEIR SPACE.

AND WHEN THESE BIRDS DON'T LIKE SOMETHING, YOU KNOW IT.

[ CRANES SQUAWKING ] Woman: ACTUALLY, WE HEAR THE BIRDS FROM THE AVIARY -- THE CRANES AND THE PEACOCKS.

VERY NOISY.

7:00, 8:00 IN THE MORNING.

BUT THAT'S ABOUT THE MOST NOISE WE HEAR OVER HERE.

Sebak: "OVER HERE" IS JUST NORTH OF WEST PARK -- THE NEIGHBORHOOD KNOWN AS THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS.

KATHY BARNETT LIVES ON RESACA PLACE, AND SHE HEADS UP THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS SOCIETY.

Barnett: WE LIKE THE PROXIMITY.

WE LIKE THE PARKS.

WE LIKE THE AVIARY.

YOU CAN WALK DOWNTOWN.

YOU CAN BE AT THE BENEDUM, THE CIVIC ARENA.

WE'RE AT HOME PARKING WHEN PEOPLE ARE STILL TRYING TO GET OUT OF MOST OF THE PARKING LOTS.

Sebak: THEY'RE CALLED THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS BECAUSE IN 1848 ALL THE STREETS AROUND HERE WERE NAMED AFTER BATTLES AND GENERALS OF THE MEXICAN WAR.

THEN, IN THE EARLY 1970s, WITH THE HELP OF PITTSBURGH HISTORY AND LANDMARKS, THIS BECAME PITTSBURGH'S FIRST NEIGHBORHOOD TO BE DESIGNATED AS AN OFFICIAL HISTORIC DISTRICT, RECOGNIZED FOR ITS VARIETY OF VICTORIAN ARCHITECTURAL STYLES.

Barnett: THE HISTORIC DISTRICT ITSELF ACTUALLY ENCOMPASSES ABOUT 335 BUILDINGS.

BUT THE ACTUAL AREA IS ONLY -- HMM...

VERY SMALL -- FROM NORTH AVENUE TO SAMPSONIA, FEDERAL STREET TO BRIGHTON.

SO IT'S REALLY ONLY ABOUT A 6-SQUARE-BLOCK AREA THAT YOU CAN WALK IN ABOUT 8 OR 10 MINUTES.

Sebak: OF COURSE, IT TAKES LONGER IF YOU'RE THE MAILMAN AND YOU'VE GOT ALL THESE WAR STREETS TO COVER.

THIS MAILMAN, ALAN THOMAS, WAS BORN AND RAISED ON THE NORTH SIDE.

Thomas: MOST PEOPLE AROUND HERE, THEY KNOW ME.

THEY SAY "MAILMAN."

AS YOU CAN SEE, THE LADY DOWN THE STREET SAYS, "MAILMAN!"

EVERYBODY SAYS THAT, SO IT'S KIND OF LIKE IT STUCK TO ME LIKE -- IT'S LIKE A NICKNAME, SO I DECIDED IF YOU'RE GOING TO GET SOMETHING, GET SOMETHING THAT EVERYBODY CALLS YOU.

Sebak: SO HE'S 100% MAILMAN, AND HE NOT ONLY WORKS IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, HE LIVES HERE, TOO.

YEAH, ACTUALLY, I DO.

I LIVE ON TAYLOR.

I LIVED ON PERRYSVILLE FIRST, AND THEN I MOVED OUT SEWICKLEY.

THEN I CAME BACK.

AND WHEN I GOT THIS ROUTE, I DECIDED TO MOVE ON THIS ROUTE.

BUT I KNEW THAT IT WOULD BE EASY FOR ME TO GO TO WORK.

I'M ONLY FIVE MINUTES FROM WORK.

AND WE GOT TO BE OUT HERE ALL DAY.

YOU MIGHT AS WELL BE SOMEWHERE WHERE YOU LIVE.

Sebak: WELL, HE SURE CAN'T COMPLAIN ABOUT THE MAILMAN.

Thomas: YEAH, I CAN'T COMPLAIN ABOUT MYSELF.

YOU WON'T EVER HEAR THAT.

PEOPLE AROUND HERE, THEY TAKE CARE OF THINGS.

SO IF YOU WANT TO LIVE IN A NICE AREA, THIS IS A NICE AREA TO LIVE IN.

Sebak: OKAY, AND YOU KNOW WHAT?

COMMUNITY GARDENS FILL A NUMBER OF EMPTY LOTS IN THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS, AND THEY MAKE IT NICER FOR EVERYONE.

Woman: I'VE HAD A GARDEN HERE, I WOULD SAY, SINCE... JANUARY OF '91.

AND I LOVE IT.

Sebak: THERE ARE TWO BLOCK-LONG GARDENS BETWEEN ARCH STREET AND SHERMAN AVENUE.

THE HOUSES THAT USED TO BE HERE BURNT DOWN IN THE LATE '70s.

Woman: AND A FEW YEARS AFTER THAT, THE CITY ALLOWED US TO COME IN AND TAKE OVER, AND EVERYBODY COULD HAVE THEIR OWN GARDEN PLOT, WHICH MADE IT NICE FOR THE NEIGHBORHOOD.

IT'S SO BEAUTIFUL NOW.

Sebak: IN 1984, RANDY GILSON FOUNDED THE OLD ALLEGHENY GARDEN SOCIETY TO TAKE CARE OF THESE SPACES, AND HE'S BEEN MAKING EMPTY LOTS BEAUTIFUL EVER SINCE.

Woman: RANDY IS OUR GARDENING GURU.

THIS WHOLE CONCEPT OF THE PATH -- THE PATH ALL THROUGH HERE, ALL THE DIFFERENT PATHS -- THE GRAVEL PATH, THE BRICK PATH -- THAT WAS ALL RANDY'S CONCEPT.

THIS IS RANDY'S GARDEN OF LOVE, I LIKE TO SAY.

I USED TO CALL IT THE MEXICAN WAR STREET GARDENS, AND THEN I REALIZED, NAH, THAT WAS JUST THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS.

THAT'S JUST A SMALL LITTLE NEIGHBORHOOD OVER HERE.

WHY NOT, YOU KNOW, CALL IT OLD ALLEGHENY?

BECAUSE OLD ALLEGHENY CITY USED TO BE RIGHT HERE, AND IT WOULD BE A GREAT TRIBUTE JUST TO KEEP OLD ALLEGHENY GARDEN ALIVE.

Sebak: WELL, IF YOU LIVE AROUND HERE AND WANT TO GROW SOME FLOWERS OR VEGETABLES, YOU HAVE TO SIGN UP FOR A SPACE WITH RANDY IN THE SPRINGTIME.

Gilson: I HAVEN'T SEEN MUCH OF THIS BEING GROWN IN OUR GARDEN.

IT HAS, LIKE, A PEPPERY TASTE TO IT, AND THERE'S SOME MORE OVER THERE.

Gilson: I TRY TO DO A SPLIT GARDEN NOW.

WE TRY TO GET AS MANY PEOPLE IN AS POSSIBLE.

AND THEN IF THEY DECIDE TO STAY THE SECOND YEAR, THEN WE TRY TO GIVE THEM A FULL BED.

WE DON'T WANT TO GIVE THEM TOO MUCH TOO FAST.

THERE'S A LOT OF WEEDING INVOLVED.

Sebak: ONE OF THE COOL THINGS ABOUT THESE GARDENS IS THAT RANDY WILL CONSIDER PLANTING OLD PIECES OF BUILDINGS AND OTHER STUFF, TOO.

Gilson: WHATEVER WE FOUND LAYING AROUND THAT NOBODY REALLY WANTED, WE BROUGHT IN THE GARDEN, AND WE TRIED TO FIGURE OUT, WOULD IT WORK OR WOULDN'T IT WORK?

AND IF IT WOULDN'T WORK, WE TRIED TO GET IT OUT AS FAST AS WE COULD BEFORE IT BECAME JUNK.

Sebak: WELL, WHAT RANDY DOES, REALLY, WITH ALL HIS COMMUNITY-GARDEN PROJECTS IS HELP GET RID OF LOTS OF UGLY, UNUSED SPACES.

Gilson: AND WE GOT A LOT MORE TO DO.

THERE'S A LOT MORE LOTS OUT THERE.

HOUSES DO COME DOWN EVERY DAY.

THERE'S A LOT OF OLD FRAME HOUSES.

AND SO WE'LL BE ATTACKING THOSE LITTLE EYESORES, AND, YOU KNOW, IF A PRETTY HOME ONE DAY WILL BE BUILT THERE, FINE.

OTHERWISE, WE'RE GOING TO PUT A GARDEN IN.

Sebak: WELL, IF ALL THIS GARDENING MAKES YOU HUNGRY OR THIRSTY, YOU CAN WALK OVER TO THE CORNER OF ARCH AND SAMPSONIA TO DOUG'S MARKET.

Gilson: AND WE'RE ALL PRETTY HAPPY BECAUSE HE TOOK THIS OLD, RUN-DOWN, MA-AND-PA STORE, AND HE BROUGHT IT BACK A LOT BETTER.

Sebak: THE PLACE HAS HAD A LOT OF DIFFERENT NAMES, BUT FOR MORE THAN 100 YEARS, IT'S BEEN A HANDY LITTLE STORE.

COME ON IN AND TAKE A LOOK.

Sebak: DOUG NIMMO HAS BEEN A BUTCHER ALL HIS LIFE AND STARTED FIXING UP THIS STORE IN THE MID-1990s.

HE'S SPRUCED UP THE PLACE BUT KEPT ITS CLASSIC CHARACTER.

I'M AN OLD-FASHIONED BUTCHER.

YOU CAN TELL I GET THE BIG QUARTERS OF BEEF IN.

WE BREAK THEM DOWN ON THE WOOD BLOCK BACK THERE.

AND WE HAVE A LOT OF CUTS YOU DON'T NORMALLY GET -- SKIRT STEAKS, SHANK MEAT WITH THE BONE IN.

THINGS LIKE THAT YOU DON'T GET IN BOXED BEEF.

THIS IS THE ORIGINAL TIN CEILING.

I HOPE IN A FEW YEARS, I'LL BE ABLE TO GET IT PAINTED TO WHERE WE CAN HIGHLIGHT SOME OF THE IMPRESSIONS ON THERE.

IT WOULD REALLY STAND OUT THEN.

WE JUST DO A LITTLE AT A TIME AS THE MONEY COMES IN.

$6.68, BIG MAN.

Sebak: SO, WHAT ELSE DO THEY SELL HERE?

Nimmo: ALL YOUR BASICS.

YOU NEED AN ASPIRIN... YOU NEED SHOE POLISH... JELLY, WHATEVER.

THERE'S ONLY SO MUCH ROOM, SO YOU HAVE LIKE ONE LITTLE SLOT ON EACH SHELF TO PUT EVERYTHING.

Sebak: THEY HAVE A COOLER FULL OF FRESH PRODUCE, AND THEY STOCK SOME GREAT BREAD BAKED ON THE NORTH SIDE.

IF YOU WANT SOUP OR A SANDWICH, THEY'VE GOT TAKEOUT LUNCHES IN THE BACK.

AND IT'S ALSO BACK HERE THAT ONCE A WEEK THEY MAKE THEIR OWN SAUSAGE.

Nimmo: I MAKE FRESH KIELBASA.

I MAKE HOT ITALIAN SAUSAGE, SWEET ITALIAN SAUSAGE, AND WE MAKE A BULK BREAKFAST SAUSAGE FOR PATTIES, WHICH IS REALLY GOOD.

Sebak: THIS KIND OF SHOP BECOMES MORE THAN JUST A MEAT MARKET OR CONVENIENCE STORE.

DOUG AND ALL HIS EMPLOYEES LIVE NEARBY, AND THE PLACE IS REALLY A KIND OF NEIGHBORHOOD MAGNET.

THANK YOU.

YOUR SANDWICH WILL BE RIGHT UP.

Woman: I'VE BEEN COMING HERE LONGER THAN DOUG'S HAD IT.

THEY HAVE VERY GOOD MEAT AND VERY GOOD VEGETABLES.

AND THEY'RE NICE PEOPLE.

Sebak: DOUG SAYS SOME PEOPLE CALL THIS THE GREENS CORNER BECAUSE THEY SELL A LOT OF FRESH GREENS.

OTHER FOLKS STILL USE ITS OLD NAME -- JOE'S.

Man: MY MOTHER -- SHE CALLED ME UP AND SAYS, "YOU GOT TO GO TO THE STORE," AND SHE DOESN'T MEAN GIANT EAGLE.

SHE MEANS, "GO OVER TO JOE'S AND GET ME TWO CHICKEN LEGS."

BUT YOU KNOW, THAT USED TO BE IN THE OLD DAYS WHERE THEY GET FOUR POTATOES AND A STICK OF BUTTER, MAYBE 20 CENTS WORTH OF JUMBO.

Sebak: THAT'S STILL THE BEAUTY OF A CORNER MARKET.

AND DOUG NIMMO HAS BROUGHT NEW LIFE TO THIS ONE, HELPING TO MAKE HIS NEIGHBORHOOD AN EVEN BETTER PLACE TO LIVE.

BUT YOU MIGHT NOT WANT TO LEAVE THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS WITHOUT STOPPING BY WILSON'S BAR-B-Q AT THE CORNER OF TAYLOR AND BUENA VISTA.

GEORGE WILSON HAS BEEN MAKING WHAT HE CALLS "RIBLICIOUS" BARBECUE ON THE NORTH SIDE SINCE 1960.

George: MY GRANDFATHER WAS A BARBECUE MAN.

YEAH, HE TAUGHT ME THE WHOLE BIT.

OUR SAUCE IS OVER 100 YEARS OF AGE.

EX-SLAVES IN MY FAMILY PUT IT TOGETHER AND I GOT IT AND I IMPROVED UPON IT.

AND THAT'S WHAT MAKES IT GREAT.

Sebak: GEORGE AND HIS SON GEORGIE COOK EVERYTHING THEY SELL RIGHT HERE -- RIBS AND CHICKEN MOSTLY -- AND THEIR SAUCE THAT'S THE BIG SECRET.

Georgie: AND THE SECRET IS WE DON'T WANT NOBODY TO KNOW.

WE WANT TO KEEP IT TO OURSELF, YOU KNOW.

THE SAUCE IS PUT ON AT THE DISCRETION OF THE PEOPLE.

WE COOK THE RIB.

NO SAUCE IS ON THAT AT ALL.

WE JUST COOK IT.

IF THEY WANT HOT SAUCE, WE GOT IT.

THEY WANT MILD SAUCE, WE GOT IT.

Sebak: A SLAB COSTS ABOUT 20 BUCKS.

HOW ABOUT A SLAB?

MILD.

AND IF YOU'RE LUCKY, THEY'LL HAVE GREENS AND OTHER DISHES.

AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO PAY ANYTHING FOR THE AROMA.

Man: OH, I LOVE THE SMELL HERE.

MATTER OF FACT, I LOVE THE SMELL WHEN I LEAVE HERE.

IT'S STILL IN YOUR CLOTHES.

IT MAKES YOU HUNGRY ALL OVER AGAIN.

George: AND WE COOK WITH WOOD.

WE'RE THE ONLY REAL BARBECUE ON THE EASTERN SEABOARD THAT USES WOOD.

THAT BARBECUE PIT CAN COOK 60 SLABS OF RIBS AT ONE TIME.

Man: MR. WILSON IS ABSOLUTELY THE BEST RIBMASTER THAT I'VE EVER RUN INTO.

THE ABSOLUTE BEST.

SOMETIMES I'LL TAKE THEM TO FAMILY, FRIENDS.

SOMETIMES THEY NEVER GET THEM BECAUSE I EAT THEM BEFORE I GET HOME.

George: THIS IS ALMOST 99.44% TAKEOUT.

A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T KNOW HOW TO EAT RIBS SO WHEN THEY GET HOME, THEY DON'T CARE HOW THEY EAT THEM.

IF THE SAUCE DROPS ALL OVER THEM, DON'T MAKE NO DIFFERENCE.

Sebak: IS THERE A RIGHT WAY TO EAT A RIB?

OH, YEAH.

JUST GET YOUR FINGERS TOGETHER AND START EATING THEM.

MOVE YOUR NECK OUT AS MUCH AS YOU CAN SO YOU DON'T GET IT ON YOUR CLOTHES.

I JUST COME IN, BUY SAUCE, AND EAT THE SAUCE WITH BREAD.

TRUTH.

NO.

NO.

THE RIBS.

THE RIBS.

IT'S THE RIBS.

NOW THAT'S -- THAT'S RIBS.

George: WHAT YOU REALLY WANT TO DO IS WHAT YOU DO THE BEST.

YOU'VE GOT TO COOK WHAT YOU KNOW, AND THE PEOPLE WILL ALWAYS COME BACK.

AND ONE OTHER THING -- ONE OTHER THING ALL RESTAURANTS SHOULD KNOW -- OVER THE PERIOD OF YEARS THAT I HAVE BEEN IN BUSINESS, THERE IS NO SHORTCUTS TO GOOD EATING.

Sebak: YOU MAY WANT TO STAY IN THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS FOREVER, BUT THERE ARE OTHER GREAT NEIGHBORHOODS NEARBY, INCLUDING WHAT'S CALLED ALLEGHENY WEST, WEST OF WEST PARK.

IT INCLUDES SEVERAL OF THE MOST HANDSOME OLD STREETS IN PITTSBURGH, INCLUDING BEECH AVENUE.

PEOPLE LOVE LIVING HERE NOW.

AFTER SEVERAL BAD YEARS IN THE 1960s, IT'S BECOME A VERY CLASSY NEIGHBORHOOD, JUST AS IT WAS WHEN IT WAS BUILT.

Man: ALLEGHENY WEST WAS BUILT TO BE THE GOLD COAST OF THE CITY OF ALLEGHENY, SIMPLY BECAUSE IT WAS THE LAST NEIGHBORHOOD TO GET BUILT AT A TIME WHEN ALLEGHENY CITY WAS ATTRACTING TREMENDOUS NUMBERS OF VERY WELL-TO-DO PEOPLE -- ENTREPRENEURS, HERE IN PITTSBURGH AND ALLEGHENY.

Sebak: JOHN DeSANTIS RUNS THE PITTSBURGH HOME AND GARDEN SHOW, AND HE'S CHAIRMAN OF THE CITY'S HISTORIC REVIEW COMMISSION.

HE KNOWS A LOT ABOUT NEIGHBORHOODS AND HOUSES.

DeSantis: WE'RE ON NORTH LINCOLN AVENUE, AND NORTH LINCOLN AVENUE AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY WAS THE HOME OF BANKERS AND RAILROAD INDUSTRIALISTS.

VERY GRAND HOMES, BUT NOT QUITE AS GRAND AS RIDGE AVENUE.

BUT THE BEST SECRET ON NORTH LINCOLN AVENUE IS NOT THE HOME OF A MILLIONAIRE.

IT'S TUCKED IN BETWEEN TWO HOUSES, AND IT'S A LITTLE SWISS CHALET DISGUISING A CARRIAGE HOUSE.

THE THREE LITTLE ARCHED WINDOWS ON THE LOWER LEVEL BELONGED TO THE HORSES.

THEIR STABLES WERE JUST INSIDE THOSE.

THE BALCONY UP ABOVE IS WHERE THE LIVERYMAN AND HIS WIFE LIVED -- THAT ROMEO-AND-JULIET BALCONY.

AND IT'S KIND OF INTERESTING TO THINK THAT PROBABLY THE MOST STRIKING SINGLE LITTLE BUILDING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD TODAY WASN'T THE HOME OF A GREAT MILLIONAIRE INDUSTRIALIST BUT WAS THE HOME OF ONE OF HIS STAFF.

Sebak: IT'S A GREAT LITTLE BUILDING.

BUT, YOU KNOW, THIS WHOLE NEIGHBORHOOD HAS A KIND OF TIMELESS CHARM.

DeSantis: IN THE 19th CENTURY, FOLKS MOVED INTO THE CITY OF ALLEGHENY, AS OPPOSED TO THE CITY OF PITTSBURGH, BECAUSE OF ITS GREAT NEIGHBORHOODS.

THIS BLOCK OF LINCOLN AVENUE SHOWS WHAT THAT FELT LIKE IN THE 19th CENTURY.

IT WASN'T JUST THE GREAT HOUSES, INSIDE AND OUT.

IT WAS THE SPACE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSES THAT WAS VIEWED AS LITERALLY AN OUTDOOR LIVING ROOM.

AND IT'S INTERESTING THAT IT TOOK ALMOST THREE-QUARTERS OF A CENTURY FOR US TO START RESPONDING TO THE SAME THINGS AGAIN.

TODAY IN THE 1990s, WE RESPOND TO THIS IN A WAY THAT -- IN THE 1950s AND '60s, EVERYBODY WAS SAYING, "THIS IS HORRIBLE!

LET'S GET RID OF THIS!"

Sebak: WELL, TODAY WE ALSO STILL RESPOND TO THE HUGE MANSIONS THAT ONCE MADE ALLEGHENY WEST A VERY POSH PLACE TO LIVE.

DeSantis: WELL, ACTUALLY, RIDGE AVENUE AND WHAT'S NOW BRIGHTON ROAD -- WHAT WAS THEN IRWIN AVENUE FACING THE PARK -- WERE MILLIONAIRES ROW THEN, REPUTED TO HAVE MORE MILLIONAIRES PER SQUARE FOOT THAN ANYWHERE IN AMERICA.

Sebak: MOST OF THE GRAND OLD MANSIONS HAVE BEEN TORN DOWN.

CCAC, THE COMMUNITY COLLEGE OF ALLEGHENY COUNTY, HAS BEEN BUILT ON THE SITE OF SOME OF THE OLD HOUSES.

AND A FEW OF THE OLD MANSIONS ARE NOW USED AS OFFICES AND CLASSROOMS.

THIS WAS WHERE ALL OF THE WEALTH AND POWER AND INDUSTRY THAT WAS PITTSBURGH -- AND IN THE LATE 19th CENTURY, THAT WAS THE WEALTH OF AMERICA -- THIS WAS ALL CONCENTRATED IN JUST TWO BLOCKS.

Sebak: JOHN DeSANTIS HIMSELF LIVES JUST AROUND THE CORNER FROM RIDGE ON BRIGHTON.

HE'S DONE A LOT OF WORK ON THIS HOUSE, BUILT IN 1868, AND IT'S NOT TOO SHABBY.

AS YOU FIRST ENTERED THE HOUSE, YOU WOULD COME INTO THE GALLERY, AND THE GALLERY WAS INTENDED TO IMPRESS YOU WITH THE SHEER SCALE OF THE HOUSE -- OPULENCE.

THEN YOU WOULD BE SHOWN INTO THE PARLOR, AND THE PARLOR IS INTENDED TO BE THE MOST OPULENT ROOM IN THE HOUSE BECAUSE THIS IS WHERE GUESTS WERE RECEIVED.

YOU THEN WOULD SEE THE STAIR HALL.

AND THE STAIR HALL, OF COURSE, IS THE CIRCULATION SYSTEM FOR THE HOUSE, BUT IT ALSO IS A VERY, VERY GRAND STATEMENT OF WEALTH AND TASTE.

AND FINALLY, WHEN THERE WAS A VERY LAVISH ENTERTAINMENT GOING ON IN THE HOUSE, YOU WOULD USE -- WHAT WAS UNUSUAL FOR ALL GREAT VICTORIAN HOUSES -- AN ACTUAL BALLROOM.

AND THE BALLROOM WAS INTENDED FOR MEALS THAT WERE TOO LARGE FOR THE DINING ROOM, A DANCE, OR EVEN A CONCERT OR A DRAMATIC PRESENTATION WHERE THE BALLROOM WOULD BE SET THEATER-STYLE.

Sebak: TAKING CARE OF ONE OF THESE OLD HOMES HAS TO TAKE LOTS OF TIME AND MONEY.

DeSantis: IT IS A LABOR OF LOVE.

I MEAN, THE TRUTH IS THAT YOUR LIFE BECOMES LARGELY DOMINATED BY COMPLETING THE RESTORATION OF THE HOUSE.

AND A PROJECT OF THIS SIZE CERTAINLY IS A LIFELONG PROJECT.

Sebak: ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT THE NORTH SIDE IS THAT SO MANY PEOPLE ARE WILLING TO TAKE ON THESE LIFELONG PROJECTS.

JUST WEST OF ALLEGHENY WEST IS ANOTHER OLD NEIGHBORHOOD KNOWN AS MANCHESTER.

Woman: IT'S FLAT.

IT'S CONVENIENT TO TOWN.

IT'S CONVENIENT TO THE SUBURBS.

AND YOU DON'T HAVE THAT LONG COMMUTER RIDE TO GET HOME.

Sebak: MATHILDA SMITH IS ON THE BOARD OF THE MANCHESTER CITIZENS CORPORATION, THE ORGANIZATION THAT'S OVERSEEN MUCH OF THE REHABILITATION OF THIS NEIGHBORHOOD THAT ONCE WAS IN DANGER OF BECOMING A SLUM.

NOW IT'S A MODEL.

Smith: BECAUSE WE HAVE WORKED LONG AND HARD TO GET IT THIS WAY.

THERE ARE GUIDELINES YOU MUST FOLLOW.

IN THE LAST 10 YEARS, NO HOUSE CAN BE BUILT IN MANCHESTER OR FIXED ON THE FAçADE PART OF THE HOUSE UNLESS IT GOES TO THE REVIEW COMMISSION AND THE MANCHESTER CITIZENS CORPORATION.

Sebak: SO THIS HISTORICAL DISTRICT HAS A DISTINCTIVE LOOK, AND THEY'RE STILL WORKING AT IT.

JOE WILLIAMS, WHO'S AN ATTORNEY IN MANCHESTER, KNOWS A LOT ABOUT HOW YOU DEAL WITH OLD STRUCTURES AROUND HERE.

Williams: I'VE NEVER BEEN ATTRACTED TO NEW BUILDINGS.

I THINK GROWING UP IN MANCHESTER, MOST PEOPLE PROBABLY HAVE AN APPRECIATION FOR THE INTEGRITY OF OLD PROPERTIES.

Sebak: JOE'S FIXING UP A BIG, OLD 19th-CENTURY BUILDING AT THE CORNER OF PENNSYLVANIA AND CHATEAU THAT'S BEEN VACANT FOR YEARS.

THIS IS MY PROJECT.

I'VE BEEN IN LOVE WITH THIS BUILDING SINCE I WAS A KID.

I USED TO WALK PAST HERE ON MY WAY TO OLD MANCHESTER SCHOOL.

I KNOW THAT IT'S A QUEEN ANNE BUILDING, BUT THERE AREN'T A LOT OF QUEEN ANNES STILL AROUND IN PITTSBURGH, AND VERY, VERY FEW ON THE NORTH SIDE, SO I REALLY TAKE A LOT OF PRIDE IN TRYING TO PUT THIS ONE BACK TOGETHER.

Sebak: JOE HAS TO FOLLOW THE GUIDELINES OF SEVERAL ORGANIZATIONS WHO ARE ALL INVOLVED IN THIS PROJECT.

BASICALLY, HE CAN DO WHATEVER HE WANTS INSIDE AS LONG AS THE EXTERIOR IS RESTORED TO ITS ORIGINAL GLORY.

Williams: THIS FIRST FLOOR HERE IS GOING TO BE MY OFFICE, AND THE SECOND AND THIRD FLOORS ARE GOING TO BE ONE LUXURY APARTMENT.

I HAVE A NUMBER OF SUBCONTRACTORS WHO ARE WORKING ON THE BUILDING.

I'M THE GENERAL CONTRACTOR.

I THINK I'VE DONE THE DIRTY JOBS.

I WAS HERE WHEN WE WERE ACTUALLY GUTTING IT.

I LIKE GUTTING OLD BUILDINGS.

WE TOOK OUT SIX DUMPSTERS OF DEBRIS OUT OF HERE, BECAUSE WATER WAS RUNNING THROUGH THE BUILDING.

WE HAD TO TAKE OUT A LOT OF WOOD, A LOT OF HORSEHAIR PLASTER.

WE WORKED FOR MAYBE THREE WEEKS JUST GUTTING THIS BUILDING.

HEY, PERRY, IF YOU CAN, SAVE SOME OF THOSE PIECES BECAUSE WE MIGHT BE ABLE TO USE THAT.

Sebak: JOE'S GOT TO WORRY ABOUT THE NOISE COMING FROM THE HIGHWAY, AS WELL AS THE HIGH COST OF CUSTOM RESTORATION.

Williams: ONE OF OUR BIGGEST EXPENSES IS GOING TO BE WINDOWS BECAUSE WE HAVE THESE CURVED WINDOWS ON THE FRONT -- FOUR OF THEM.

THE BEST PRICE I'VE GOTTEN SO FAR IS $3,200 -- PER WINDOW.

Sebak: COULD THIS POSSIBLY BE WORTH ALL THE MONEY AND THE HASSLES?

Williams: IT'S WORTH IT TO ME BECAUSE I PLAN ON RETIRING HERE.

I'M IN LOVE WITH MANCHESTER, AND THIS HOUSE TO ME IS SORT OF A PROJECT THAT I WANT TO DO THAT WILL REFLECT MY HAVING BEEN IN MANCHESTER.

BUT EACH DAY, YOU KNOW, I COME AND I SEE SOMETHING WHEN I GET BACK FROM COURT THAT MOTIVATES ME TO TRY TO MAKE SOME MONEY TO KEEP THIS GOING.

Sebak: SO, WHAT DOES MATHILDA THINK?

Smith: I THINK IT'S GREAT.

IT'S ONE LESS VACANT BUILDING.

IF WE GET ONE MORE DONE, THE BLOCK WILL LOOK GOOD.

Sebak: FIERCE PRIDE IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD IS COMMON ALL OVER THE NORTH SIDE.

AND WHEN YOU GET INTO THE HILLS, IT'S NOT JUST OLD HOUSES.

WE MET FRANK RULLI ONE AFTERNOON ON THE HILL THAT RISES UP JUST NORTHEAST OF THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS.

Rulli: THIS NEIGHBORHOOD IS FINEVIEW.

IT WAS CALLED NUNNERY HILL.

THEN WHEN CHANNEL 11 WAS BUILT, YOU COULD EITHER CALL IT TELEVISION HILL OR FINEVIEW.

I LIKE "FINEVIEW" BECAUSE NOTHING BUT A FINE VIEW.

Sebak: IT IS A COOL VIEW FROM UP HERE.

IT'S A REALLY COOL VIEW.

NEAT VIEW.

I GUESS THAT'S WHERE YOU GET YOUR NAME.

FRANK?

SORRY!

[ LAUGHTER ] Sebak: WELL, FRANK ALSO KNOWS ABOUT THE INTERESTING THINGS TO SEE UP HERE, TOO, LIKE THE UNUSUAL LITTLE HOUSE KNOWN AS THE HEATHSIDE COTTAGE.

Rulli: I KNOW THAT IT'S A HISTORICAL LANDMARK ON THIS HILL.

Woman: IT WAS BUILT IN 1855, AND IT IS A GOTHIC REVIVAL.

AND IF YOU LOOK AT THE ARCHITECTURAL LINES THAT ARE AROUND ON THE ROOF, AND THE BATTEN BOARD AND THE VERGEBOARD, THE GOTHIC WINDOWS, THE CERTAIN KIND OF LITTLE PEAKS OF THE BRICKWORK THAT IS THERE, THE TRIM, THE BRIC-A-BRAC TRIM -- ALL OF THAT MAKES IT GOTHIC.

AND IT'S ALL IN MINIATURE.

IT'S ALL SMALL.

THIS IS A REAL TINY LITTLE PLACE.

Sebak: JUDITH HARVEY HAS OWNED THIS UNIQUE LITTLE HOUSE SINCE 1992.

Harvey: EVERYBODY THINKS IT LOOKS LIKE EITHER A HANSEL-AND-GRETEL COTTAGE OR A LITTLE CHURCH.

IF YOU NOTICE, I PUT A LITTLE GARGOYLE AT THE TOP, AND WHEN I FIRST DID THAT -- THAT WAS THE FIRST THING I DID -- THE NEIGHBORHOOD CHILDREN THOUGHT, "OH!

A WITCH IS MOVING IN!"

AND I THOUGHT, "WELL, LET THEM THINK THAT!"

Sebak: WELL, FOR MOST OF ITS HISTORY, THE HOUSE WAS PAINTED.

NOW THE BRICKS ARE COATED WITH SILICONE TO STOP DETERIORATION.

THE ROOF ON THE PORCH IS CURVED LIKE THE BOW OF A SHIP.

AND ONCE YOU SEE THIS HOUSE, YOU HAVE TO WONDER WHAT'S INSIDE.

AND IT'S VERY UNUSUAL.

COME ON IN AND SEE.

THIS IS THE PARLOR, AND MY FAVORITE THING IN THIS ROOM HAS TO BE THE MIRROR BECAUSE IN THE EARLY '30s, MY PARENTS AND I LIVED IN THE MANCHESTER SECTION OF THE NORTH SIDE.

MY MOTHER FOUND THAT IN THE DUMP BEHIND ONE OF THE OLD MANSIONS THAT ARE NO LONGER IN EXISTENCE ON MILLIONAIRES ROW.

AND IT WAS IN EVERY HOUSE THAT WE HAD.

AND NOW IT'S BACK HOME AGAIN BECAUSE IT'S ON THE NORTH SIDE.

Sebak: BUT THE MIRROR IS JUST ONE OF JUDITH'S MANY VICTORIAN TOUCHES.

AND SHE'S GOT GARGOYLES ALL OVER THE PLACE.

Harvey: YOU KNOW, EVEN IN AN OLD HOUSE, YOU HAVE TO HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF MODERN WHERE YOU JUST SORT OF LAY ABOUT AND DO NOTHING, LIKE MAYBE WATCH TELEVISION OR DO A PUZZLE.

SO THIS WOULD BE THAT KIND OF A REC ROOM.

AND I USED TO THINK THAT I HAD FAVORITE ROOMS, BUT EVERY ROOM THAT I'M IN AT THAT MOMENT IS THAT CURRENT FAVORITE.

BUT WHEN I REALLY WANT TO FEEL LIKE QUEEN OF FINEVIEW, I AM IN THE BEDROOM BECAUSE I HAVE THE BEST VIEW OF THE CITY, AND I JUST SIT THERE AND I THINK, "I CAN SEE IT ALL."

AND, I MEAN, WHAT MORE DO YOU WANT?

Rulli: I MEAN, PEOPLE SAY THAT MOUNT WASHINGTON, WEST END OVERLOOK, HAVE A GOOD VIEW, BUT NOT AS GOOD A VIEW AS FINEVIEW.

NOTHING BUT A FINE VIEW HERE.

Sebak: IT'S PART OF THAT WHOLE "PRIDE IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD" THING.

PEOPLE HERE LOVE THIS ANGLE, BUT ONE HILL TO THE EAST, ON SPRING HILL, PEOPLE WILL TELL YOU THEY'VE GOT THE MOST SPECTACULAR VIEW OF PITTSBURGH AND THE NORTH SIDE BELOW.

OOH!

I LIKE THAT!

Woman: A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T EVEN KNOW WHERE SPRING HILL IS, BUT THE ONES THAT DO, THEY ALWAYS KNOW IT'S "THE CASTLE," OR "THE HOUSE WITH THE CASTLE," YEAH.

Sebak: "THE HOUSE WITH THE CASTLE" IS AT 1328 DAMAS STREET ON SPRING HILL.

THE CASTLE IS AN UNUSUAL RETAINING WALL, BUILT WITH CONCRETE AND STONE SIMPLY TO HOLD UP A STEEP FRONT YARD.

IT MAY BE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RETAINING WALL IN THE WORLD.

IT'S SLIGHTLY COVERED WITH GREENERY NOW, BUT OVER THE YEARS, THERE'S BEEN A LOT MORE IVY AND SUCH -- AND A LOT LESS.

SUE COMPORT LIVED HERE AS A YOUNG GIRL, AND IT WAS HER GRANDFATHER, LEO BERGER, WHO BUILT IT.

Comport: IT MUST HAVE REALLY TAKEN HIM A LOT OF PLANNING TO DO THAT BECAUSE HE WAS REALLY A BAKER.

HE WASN'T A STONE MASON OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.

Sebak: THE HOUSE AND WALL DON'T BELONG TO THEIR FAMILY ANYMORE, BUT SUE MET US AT THE CASTLE WITH HER DAUGHTER, KIM SALANCY, AND HER FAMILY.

KIM SAYS THEY KNOW HER GREAT-GRANDFATHER, THE BAKER, IMMIGRATED TO PITTSBURGH IN THE 1920s.

Salancy: AND SO FROM PICTURES OF OLD CASTLES HE SAW IN AUSTRIA, HE MADE THIS PLAN OF THIS CASTLE, AND HE CONSTRUCTED IT.

AND IT TOOK HIM THREE YEARS AND, I THINK, 2 OR 3 TONS OF CEMENT TO GET THE WHOLE THING TOGETHER, AND IT FINALLY CAME TOGETHER IN 1933.

I LOVE IT BECAUSE IT'S A PART OF MY FAMILY HISTORY.

AND IT'S SOMETHING THAT I CAN SAY THAT THIS IS WHAT MY GREAT-GREAT-GRANDFATHER DID, AND YOU CAN GO SEE IT IF YOU DRIVE UP DAMAS STREET.

IT'S THERE JUST FOR YOU TO SEE IT.

Sebak: IT IS NICE TO HAVE SOME EVIDENCE OF YOUR HISTORY LEFT TO LOOK AT.

SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO LOOK HARD FOR WHAT'S LEFT.

IF YOU GO SOUTH INTO THE VALLEY ALONG THE BASE OF SPRING HILL, YOU'RE IN WHAT'S CALLED SPRING GARDEN.

WE MET DAVID ROTENSTEIN THERE.

HE'S BEEN DOING A LOT OF RESEARCH AND WRITING ON THE HISTORY OF THE MEAT-PROCESSING AND LEATHER-TANNING INDUSTRIES THAT USED TO BE HERE.

Rotenstein: AT ONE POINT, AROUND 1890, ALLEGHENY CITY'S CHIEF ECONOMIC PRODUCT WAS TANNED LEATHER AND FINISHED LEATHER, YET IT VIRTUALLY DISAPPEARED BY THE 1920s.

Sebak: IT'S ACTUALLY FORTUNATE IN SOME WAYS BECAUSE THE MEAT AND LEATHER INDUSTRIES WERE NOT TOO FRAGRANT HERE IN SPRING GARDEN.

Rotenstein: OH, IT WAS AN AWFUL-SMELLING PLACE.

IF YOU COULD ACTUALLY LIVE WITH THE MONIKER "PITTSBURGH -- THE SMOKY CITY," THEN YOU'D HAVE "ALLEGHENY CITY -- THE SMELLY CITY."

Sebak: BUT THERE ARE SOME BUILDINGS LEFT THAT ONCE WERE TANNERIES, AND DAVID SAYS YOU CAN SEE SOME RUINS OF AN OLD SLAUGHTERHOUSE BEHIND MARSHALL'S ON SPRING GARDEN AVENUE.

Rotenstein: WE'RE STANDING IN THE FORMER OSWALD AND HESS SLAUGHTERHOUSE.

I'M HEADING TOWARDS THE HILLSIDE WHICH FORMS THE NORTHERN BOUNDARY OF SPRING GARDEN VALLEY.

BACK HERE IS AN OLD COLD STORAGE ROOM.

THE SLAUGHTERHOUSE OPERATORS MADE USE OF THE NATURAL ROCK HILLSIDES BY BUILDING THESE TUNNEL-LIKE FEATURES INTO THE HILLSIDE WHERE THEY HAD THEIR MEAT STORED.

I TALKED TO ONE OLD-TIMER WHO SAID SOME OF THESE THINGS WERE TWO OR THREE ROOMS DEEP INSIDE THE HILLS.

AT THE LATE 19th CENTURY, ANIMALS WERE OFFLOADED AT HERR'S ISLAND AND DRIVEN UP WHAT'S NOW RIALTO STREET AND DOWN INTO SPRING GARDEN VALLEY TO THE MANY SLAUGHTERHOUSES AND MEAT-PACKING PLANTS.

Sebak: NOWADAYS IT'S KIND OF WEIRD TO THINK OF PIGS AND COWS AND GOATS RUNNING UP THIS STEEP, NARROW HILL, BUT THEY HAD TO IN ORDER TO GET UP AND OVER THIS UNUSUAL LITTLE PLATEAU CALLED TROY HILL.

THAT SMALL BRIDGE CARRIES LOWRIE STREET OVER RIALTO.

RIGHT HERE.

MARY WOHLEBER IS THE NEIGHBORHOOD HISTORIAN UP HERE.

A LOT OF TIMES I JUST COME HERE AND STAND.

DO YOU KNOW THIS IS ONE OF THE STEEPEST HILLS IN PITTSBURGH?

Sebak: AND IT'S A HILL THAT'S HAD MORE THAN ONE NAME.

Wohleber: RAVINE STREET IS IT, THOUGH.

NOW THEY CALL IT RIALTO STREET.

THEN THEY CALLED IT SOMETHING ELSE IN BETWEEN, BUT ANYBODY THAT KNOWS ANYTHING JUST SAYS, "RAVINE STREET."

Sebak: WELL, RAVINE OR RIALTO, IT'S STILL A POPULAR CHALLENGE FOR WALKERS AND JOGGERS.

Wohleber: TRY IT SOMETIME.

DO COME UP AND DOWN HERE ONCE.

YOU'LL FIND OUT HOW GOOD YOUR WIND IS.

Sebak: MARY SAID SHE'D GIVE US A TOUR OF HER HILLTOP.

Wohleber: WE'RE VERY NARROW.

WE'RE ONLY ABOUT 600 YARDS WIDE, AND WE'RE A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN A MILE LONG.

Sebak: TROY HILL IS AN OLD GERMAN NEIGHBORHOOD WITH A REMARKABLY STABLE POPULATION.

Wohleber: ALMOST ALL THESE PEOPLE ALONG HERE ARE OLD TROY HILLERS.

THIS HOUSE IS FOR SALE HERE.

I WAS VERY SURPRISED TO SEE THAT.

THIS YOUNG PERSON HAS JUST MOVED IN HERE, AND SHE'S SO PLEASED TO BE LIVING ON TROY HILL IN THIS TINY LITTLE HOUSE ALL BY HERSELF.

AND SHE THINKS SHE'S JUST MOVED TO HEAVEN.

Sebak: MAYBE SHE HAS.

THERE'S THAT SENSE OF BEING UP ABOVE THE WORLD HERE, AND MARY MIGHT EVEN CONVINCE YOU THERE'S SOMETHING CELESTIAL RATHER THAN INFERNAL ABOUT THE OLD FIREHOUSE.

Wohleber: THIS HAS BEEN HERE SINCE THE 1880s.

AND THIS IS NOT THE ORIGINAL BUILDING.

A NEW FAçADE WAS PUT ON HERE IN A NEW BUILDING IN 1901, AS YOU SEE.

THE MEN CONGREGATE HERE, AND IF YOU WANT TO KNOW ANYTHING, YOU GO TO THE FIREHOUSE.

AND I THINK THAT MOST -- MOST TOWNS HAVE LOST THAT.

AND THE CITY FIREHOUSES, TOO.

THIS STILL HAS THE AURA OF COMMUNITY AND NEIGHBORLINESS, WHEN ALL THE FIREMEN THAT WERE HERE WERE PEOPLE THAT LIVED AROUND HERE.

Sebak: WELL, MARY'S LIVED HER WHOLE LIFE UP HERE -- BORN AND RAISED ON TROY HILL.

SHE REMEMBERS WHEN PEOPLE SPOKE GERMAN UP HERE, AND SHE'S HAPPY TO POINT OUT LOTS OF LOCAL LANDMARKS.

MY MOTHER GOT THE FRANCHISE FOR THIS GAS STATION.

Sebak: MARY SAID WE HAD TO SEE THE VIEW, BUT WE TOLD HER WE WERE RUNNING SHORT ON TIME, SO SHE STARTED RUNNING.

THIS IS THE DEUTSCHER UNDERSCHTITZENBUND.

Sebak: THE DEUTSCHER UNDERSCHTITZENBUND WAS A KIND OF GERMAN FRATERNAL ORGANIZATION THAT RAN A BAR INSIDE AND HELD PICNICS OUT BACK, AS WELL AS PROVIDED SOCIAL SERVICES TO THE COMMUNITY AS NEEDED.

THERE WERE OTHER CLUBS AROUND HERE, TOO, LIKE THE TURNVEREIN THAT OFFERED A PLACE FOR EXERCISE.

THESE TROY HILL GERMANS HAVE A LONG HISTORY OF KEEPING FIT.

THERE YOU ARE!

WAS I RIGHT?

ISN'T THAT BEAUTIFUL?

AH!

NOW DO YOU KNOW WHY I WANT TO LIVE HERE?!

ISN'T THAT BEAUTIFUL?

NOW, THAT'S A VIEW YOU'RE NOT GOING TO GET ANYWHERE ELSE.

GOD, I LOVE IT.

Sebak: WELL, IN ADDITION TO THE VIEW, MANY TROY HILLERS LIKE THE FACT THAT THEY CAN LIVE CLOSE TO WHERE THEY WORK.

AND FOR OVER 100 YEARS NOW, MANY HAVE WORKED RIGHT AT THE BASE OF TROY HILL IN THE COMPLEX OF BUILDINGS KNOWN AS THE HEINZ PLANT.

ONE OF THE PLANT SUPERVISORS, DAVE STERRITT, HAS WORKED HERE FOR 33 YEARS.

Sterritt: THERE'VE BEEN FIVE GENERATIONS IN MY FAMILY WORKING HERE AT HEINZ.

MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER WORKED RIGHT HERE WITH H.J.

-- THE ORIGINAL H.J.

Sebak: THE ORIGINAL H.J., HENRY JOHN HEINZ, WHO'S OFTEN REFERRED TO AS "THE FOUNDER," WAS BORN IN 1844 IN BIRMINGHAM, PENNSYLVANIA, WHICH IS NOW PITTSBURGH'S SOUTH SIDE, BUT HE GREW UP AND STARTED HIS FOOD BUSINESS IN SHARPSBURG, A FEW MILES UP THE ALLEGHENY RIVER.

IT WASN'T TILL THE EARLY 1890s, WHEN HIS BUSINESS WAS BOOMING AND STARTING TO EXPAND OVERSEAS, THAT HEINZ MOVED HIS COMPANY INTO THIS 21-ACRE COMPLEX OF RED-BRICK BUILDINGS IN WHAT WAS THEN THE EASTERN PART OF ALLEGHENY CITY.

IT WAS THE FIRST LARGE-SCALE FOOD-PROCESSING FACTORY IN THE WORLD.

THE FOUNDER FELT IT WAS GOOD POLICY TO TREAT HIS WORKERS WELL, AND HE EMPLOYED THOUSANDS HERE, MORE THAN HALF OF THEM WOMEN, WHO, IF THEY HANDLED FOOD, RECEIVED A WEEKLY MANICURE AND OTHER BENEFITS UNHEARD OF AT THE TIME.

AND ALTHOUGH HEINZ WAS FAMOUS FOR HIGH-QUALITY HORSERADISH AND FOR FANCY PACKED PICKLES AND PICKLE PINS, WORKERS HERE ACTUALLY COOKED, CANNED, BOTTLED, WRAPPED AND PACKED EVERYTHING FROM VINEGAR TO BAKED BEANS.

THEY WERE ALREADY MAKING MORE THAN 57 DIFFERENT THINGS WHEN THE FOUNDER CAME UP WITH THE SLOGAN "57 VARIETIES."

ONE VARIETY THEY'VE MADE SINCE THE EARLIEST DAYS IN ALLEGHENY IS MUSTARD.

DAVE SAYS THEY MAKE IT FROM SCRATCH.

Sterritt: THIS IS THE MUSTARD SEED WE USE TO MAKE MUSTARD HERE AT HEINZ.

IN ORDER TO MAKE OUR DIJON MUSTARD, WE MIX YELLOW MUSTARD SEED, SOME ORIENTAL, AND SOME BROWN.

Sebak: WHEN WE WERE THERE, CORTRELL THOMAS WAS THE MUSTARD COOK AND OPERATOR.

AFTER 20 YEARS AT HEINZ, HE KNOWS MUSTARD.

Thomas: WELL, WE MAKE SURE THE MUSTARD IS BLENDED WELL, THAT WE HAVE THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS IN IT.

I THINK THE BROWN MUSTARD IS PROBABLY OUR SPICIEST, BUT THIS IS PRETTY SPICY, ALSO -- THIS DIJON.

Sebak: OKAY, BUT IT'S STILL JUST MUSTARD.

THIS IS HEINZ, AND THAT MEANS ONE THING -- KETCHUP.

IT'S NOW MADE IN A DIFFERENT PART OF THE SAME BUILDING, WHERE THERE'S A RAISED PLATFORM NEXT TO THREE BIG METAL TANKS.

Man: WE'RE RUNNING EVERY MACHINE WE HAVE WITH KETCHUP.

940 GALLONS IN COOKER NUMBER 1 AND COOKER NUMBER 3.

COOKER NUMBER 2 IS ONLY 910.

Sebak: THIS IS THE KIND OF LARGE-SCALE FOOD PRODUCTION THAT H.J.

HEINZ PIONEERED.

RON WERNER IS WHAT YOU MIGHT CALL THE MASTER CHEF HERE TODAY, ASSISTED BY A SYSTEM OF PIPES AND VALVES AND A COMPUTER THAT CONTROLS MUCH OF THE PROCESS.

THE VINEGAR AND THE FRUCTOSE AND PASTE WILL START GOING IN BY ITSELF.

I HAVE TO ADD THE ONION MIX AND THE PEPPER MIX AND SOME WATER.

Sebak: RON WERNER HAS WORKED FOR HEINZ FOR ALMOST 30 YEARS.

HE'S PART OF ANOTHER FAMILY OF HEINZ EMPLOYEES.

HIS FATHER WORKED HERE FOR 46 YEARS.

RON'S BEEN IN KETCHUP FOR JUST THE LAST THREE.

Werner: RIGHT NOW WE'RE GOING TO COOK THIS AT 212 DEGREES.

THAT WILL COOK FOR APPROXIMATELY 20, 25 MINUTES.

Sebak: BEFORE IT'S FINISHED, RON WILL ADD WHAT HE CALLS "OLD 30."

Werner: ESSENTIAL OIL NUMBER 30.

IT GIVES THAT LITTLE EXTRA ZIP.

THIS LITTLE CUP GOES IN 940 GALLONS.

SO YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW POTENT IT IS.

THE SECRET INGREDIENT.

Sebak: COOL.

AND WHEN SOMETHING'S THIS IMPORTANT, YOU'VE GOT TO MAKE IT IN HUGE QUANTITIES.

BECAUSE WHERE WOULD WE BE WITHOUT KETCHUP?

TO ME, IT'S GOOD.

I LIKE TO MAKE IT NICE AND THICK.

Sebak: OF COURSE HE DOES -- IT'S HEINZ.

IT'S OUR NUMBER-ONE PRODUCT.

YOU TRY TO MAKE IT GOOD TO KEEP IT NUMBER ONE.

Sebak: WHEN THE COOKED KETCHUP LEAVES HERE, THROUGH PIPES, IT GOES -- JUST AS THE MUSTARD DOES -- TO BE HOMOGENIZED, COOLED A BIT, AND PACKAGED.

SOME OF THE MUSTARD WILL BE PIPED TO ANOTHER BUILDING, WHERE IT IS PUT INTO THESE SMALL, 2-OUNCE BOTTLES THEY CALL "ROOM SERVICE MUSTARDS."

THEY'RE FILLED, LABELED, AND BOXED ALL IN ONE SPOT.

IN THIS PITTSBURGH PLANT, THEY STILL BOTTLE VINEGAR, MAYONNAISE, AND TONS OF BABY FOOD, AMONG OTHER THINGS.

THEY MAKE AND CAN LOTS OF SOUP HERE, TOO.

WHAT THEY HAVEN'T DONE ON THE NORTH SIDE FOR MANY YEARS IS PUT KETCHUP IN BOTTLES.

ALL THAT KETCHUP WE SAW COOKING GOES INTO THOSE LITTLE PACKETS THAT YOU GET AT FAST-FOOD PLACES.

HEINZ PEOPLE CALL THEM "POUCHES."

AND WHEN THEY'VE GOT ALL THESE MACHINES GOING FULL SPEED AHEAD, THEY CAN MAKE OVER 21 MILLION POUCHES OF KETCHUP EVERY DAY HERE ON THE NORTH SIDE.

IT'S NO EXAGGERATION TO SAY THAT FROM THIS PLANT, H.J.

HEINZ AND HIS COMPANY CHANGED THE WAY THE WORLD EATS IN THE 20th CENTURY.

AND WHEN YOU SEE ALL THESE HEINZ LOGOS AND LABELS AND BOXES GOING BY, YOU CAN FIND A KIND OF MODERN BEAUTY IN ALL THIS.

IT'S CLASSIC POP ART IN ITS ORIGINAL HABITAT.

BUT IF YOU WANT TO SEE POP ART THAT'S BEEN CAPTURED AND DISPLAYED, YOU DON'T HAVE TO GO FAR.

THE ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM IS AT THE CORNER OF SANDUSKY AND GENERAL ROBINSON.

IT'S SEVEN FLOORS OF STUFF CELEBRATING THE LIFE AND WORK OF ANDY WARHOL, WHO WAS BORN AND IS NOW BURIED HERE IN PITTSBURGH.

THE MUSEUM'S DIRECTOR, TOM SOKOLOWSKI, SAYS THE BUILDING AND ITS CONTENTS WORK WELL TOGETHER.

Sokolowski: OH, I THINK THIS IS AN EXTRAORDINARY PLACE FOR THE SIMPLE REASON THAT WE HAVE WORKS OF ART ON THE WALLS LIKE EVERY MUSEUM DOES, BUT THE ONE THING THAT'S REALLY UNIQUE IN THIS MUSEUM AND WHICH IS THE HEART OF OUR MUSEUM ARE THE ARCHIVES.

AND I THINK WE PROBABLY COME CLOSEST IN THIS COUNTRY TO BEING SOMETHING AKIN TO A PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY.

Sebak: THE ARCHIVES INCLUDE THESE INTRIGUING CARDBOARD BOXES THAT WARHOL CALLED HIS "TIME CAPSULES."

THE ASSISTANT ARCHIVIST, MATT WRBICAN, GOT THE ONE MARKED "GEMS AND JUNK" -- THE BOX THAT HE AND ARCHIVIST JOHN SMITH AGREED TO OPEN FOR US.

WHAT NUMBER IS THIS ONE?

Sebak: THESE GUYS HAVE FOUND UNPAID BILLS, $14,000 IN CASH, AND A MUMMIFIED HUMAN FOOT, AMONG OTHER THINGS, IN THESE BOXES.

THERE'S 610, AND WE'VE OPENED ABOUT 75.

IT'S A LEARNING PROCESS FOR EVERYONE, REALLY.

GENERALLY, WHEN WE OPEN THESE THINGS, THE THING WE TYPICALLY FIND IN HERE ARE NEWSPAPER CLIPPINGS, MAGAZINES, BOOKS.

YOU KNOW, WARHOL HAD FANS SORT OF ALL OVER THE WORLD, AND PEOPLE WOULD SEND HIM GIFTS, SO THIS MAY WELL BE SOMETHING THAT HE EITHER BOUGHT OR SOMEONE BOUGHT AND SENT TO HIM.

A MICKEY MOUSE RADIO.

THAT'S BORING.

AC TO DC ADAPTOR.

...CARVED OUT INSIDE.

A BIG SOUND CB SCANNER/WRISTWATCH.

THAT REALLY, REALLY DATES THIS BOX, YEAH.

SO THESE MAY BE KIND OF THE INTERESTING THINGS HERE.

THERE ARE SEVERAL OF THESE BOXES IN HERE.

JEWELRY.

BRACELETS.

OH, THEY'RE GLASS.

JEWELRY.

GLASS.

AND THERE'S SOMETHING WRITTEN IN ARABIC THERE.

NO IDEA WHAT IT IS, BUT THEY'RE JUST ALL OF THESE KIND OF BRIGHT GLASS BRACELETS, WHICH WHO KNOWS WHY WARHOL WAS... AND THESE THINGS.

OH, BOBBY KENNEDY -- YEAH, BOBBY KENNEDY PENDANTS.

ONE SIDE HAS BOBBY, AND THE OTHER SIDE HAS JFK.

MORE JEWELRY, AND THAT...

SORT OF DISAPPOINTING.

...REALLY EXPLAINS WHY IT'S CALLED "GEMS AND JUNK."

OH, THAT'S A NICE ONE.

ANDY WAS A LEO.

Sebak: WHAT ANDY WAS AND ANDY DID AND ANDY WOULD HAVE LIKED ARE IMPORTANT HERE, BUT THERE'S A SENSE OF HUMOR, TOO.

THE WARHOL IS MORE FUN AND FAMILIAR THAN MOST ART MUSEUMS.

Sokolowski: I MEAN, MAYBE WE SHOULD HAVE CALLED THIS "THE ANDY WARHOL FACTORY" BECAUSE HE CALLED HIS STUDIOS IN NEW YORK ALWAYS "THE FACTORY."

WE WANT PEOPLE HERE TO LAUGH AND HAVE FUN AND MAYBE DISAGREE WITH US, AND MAYBE A "FACTORY" WOULD GIVE OFF THAT IDEA BETTER THAN THE WORD "MUSEUM."

Sebak: WELL, ON THE NORTH SIDE, NOT TOO FAR AWAY, THERE IS ALREADY A WORLD-RENOWNED ART MUSEUM CALLED A FACTORY -- THE MATTRESS FACTORY.

IT'S IN THE MEXICAN WAR STREETS IN AN OLD 6-STORY BUILDING THAT FOR A WHILE WAS A MATTRESS WAREHOUSE.

NOW IT'S A SORT OF RESEARCH-AND- DEVELOPMENT LAB FOR ARTISTS, ACCORDING TO ITS EXECUTIVE AND ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, BARBARA LUDEROWSKI.

Luderowski: IT'S NOT A WALK-BY.

AND THAT'S WHAT A LOT OF TIMES I FEEL MUSEUMS UNFORTUNATELY BECOME IS SORT OF WALK-BYS.

AND THERE'S NOTHING IN OUR PLACE THAT'S WALK-BY.

Sebak: WHAT'S IN THIS PLACE ARE LARGE CREATIONS CALLED "INSTALLATIONS."

MICHAEL OLIJNYK, THE CURATOR HERE, SAYS ARTISTS ARE INVITED TO CREATE WORK SPECIFICALLY FOR CERTAIN SPACES.

Olijnyk: I THINK YOU REALLY HAVE TO EXPERIENCE IT BECAUSE A LOT OF THEM AFFECT YOUR BODY.

IT'S NOT LIKE LOOKING AT A PICTURE AND UNDERSTANDING IT AND DECIDING IF YOU LIKE IT OR NOT.

SOME OF THESE PIECES, IT'S LIKE WALKING INTO A PAINTING.

Luderowski: MOST PEOPLE WHO COME FROM NEW YORK OR EUROPE HERE SAY, "WELL, WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING IN PITTSBURGH?"

WE COULD NEVER HAVE HAPPENED ANYPLACE ELSE, I DON'T THINK.

I THINK WE ARE VERY MUCH A PITTSBURGH PRODUCT.

Sebak: AMONG THE "PRODUCTS" IN THEIR PERMANENT COLLECTION IS THE GARDEN BESIDE THEIR BUILDING.

Luderowski: THE GARDEN.

THE GARDEN IS AN EVOLUTIONARY THING, JUST LIKE THE MATTRESS FACTORY HAS BEEN.

WINIFRED LUTZ IS THE ARTIST.

Olijnyk: AND WHEN YOU SEE IT, YOU'RE REALLY NOT QUITE SURE IF IT WAS ALL FOUND OR WHAT PART OF IT WAS MADE.

THE WALLS WERE SOMETHING THAT SHE BUILT, BUT SHE BUILT THEM IN SUCH A WAY THEY LOOK LIKE NORMAL BASEMENT WALLS ON THE NORTH SIDE.

YOU CAN GO TO ANY BUILDING HERE ON THE STREET AND WALK INTO THEIR BASEMENTS, AND YOU'RE GOING TO FIND THE SAME KIND OF STONE WALL.

SHE REALLY INTEGRATED THE PREVIOUS SITE AND THE NEW THINGS THAT SHE BUILT IN SUCH A WAY THAT IT FEELS LIKE IT'S BEEN HERE FOREVER, BUT THEN IT DOESN'T.

Sebak: KEEPING SUCH AN UNUSUAL MUSEUM GOING CAN'T BE EASY.

WHAT EXACTLY DO BARBARA AND MICHAEL GET OUT OF THIS?

Luderowski: I LIKE THE PEOPLE THAT FLOW THROUGH IT AND I LIKE THE ARTISTS AND I LIKE THE DIALOGUE AND I LIKE THE PRODUCT AND I LIKE THE BATTLE.

[ CHUCKLES ] Olijnyk: I THINK WE'RE REALLY HERE FOR THE ARTIST FIRST.

IT'S LIKE A BEEHIVE AND THE ARTIST IS AT THE CENTER OF IT AND EVERYONE IS THERE TO HELP THEM REALIZE SOMETHING.

AND BECAUSE OF THE WAY WE WORK WITH ARTISTS, IT GIVES THE PUBLIC A REALLY INTERESTING PRODUCT.

Sebak: WELL, IT'S NOT JUST ART MUSEUMS THAT ATTRACT PEOPLE TO THE NORTH SIDE.

A SPORTS STADIUM CAN DO THAT, TOO.

LOTS OF FOLKS COME HERE TO THE NORTH SIDE TO GO TO FOOTBALL AND BASEBALL GAMES, CONCERTS, AND ALL SORTS OF GATHERINGS IN THREE RIVERS STADIUM.

ONE SUMMER EVENING, WE WENT THERE TO MEET OUR FAVORITE LOCAL SPORTS HISTORIAN, DAN BONK.

Bonk: THE PIRATES ARE TAKING THEIR WARM-UPS RIGHT NOW, AND THEY'VE PLAYED IN THREE RIVERS STADIUM SINCE 1970, BUT REALLY, THE PIRATES AND BASEBALL HAVE BEEN ON THE NORTH SIDE FOR A LOT LONGER THAN THAT.

Sebak: ACTUALLY, THE PIRATES WERE ORIGINALLY CALLED THE ALLEGHENIES WHEN THEY FIRST WENT PROFESSIONAL IN 1876.

THEY USUALLY PLAYED AT A FIELD CALLED RECREATION PARK IN WHAT'S NOW ALLEGHENY WEST.

THAT PARK'S GONE, BUT DOWN BY THE STADIUM, THERE'S A HISTORICAL MARKER FOR IT BECAUSE THE FIRST PROFESSIONAL AMERICAN FOOTBALL GAME IS SAID TO HAVE TAKEN PLACE THERE.

IN 1891, THE BASEBALL TEAM, NEWLY NAMED "THE PIRATES," MOVED CLOSER TO THE RIVER TO A NEW FIELD CALLED EXPOSITION PARK.

DAN SAYS IT WAS SITUATED WHERE THE PARKING LOT IS NOW, JUST EAST OF THREE RIVERS.

Bonk: A BUNCH OF GUYS -- AND GIRLS -- FROM THE SOCIETY FOR AMERICAN BASEBALL RESEARCH IN PITTSBURGH DECIDED WE WERE GOING TO FIND THAT BALLPARK AND LOCATE HOME PLATE.

WE LOOKED THROUGH SOME OLD MAPS, DID SOME WORK, CAME OUT WITH A SURVEY GUN, AND WE FOUND HOME PLATE.

AND, AS YOU CAN SEE, IT'S LOCATED IN THIS PARKING STALL, RIGHT UNDERNEATH THIS PARTICULAR TIRE.

BUT A VERY SIGNIFICANT EVENT OCCURRED THERE IN 1903 -- THEN THE PITTSBURGH PIRATES PLAYED THE FIRST WORLD SERIES.

SO I THINK IT'S KIND OF INTERESTING IN THAT IF YOU KNEW WHERE THIS HOME PLATE WAS, AND YOU CAME DOWN HERE, YOU COULD LITERALLY STAND WHERE SOME OF THE GREAT BASEBALL PLAYERS OF ALL TIME STOOD -- HONUS WAGNER, CY YOUNG.

THERE ARE VERY FEW PLACES ANYWHERE WHERE I CAN SAY I'M STANDING RIGHT WHERE A SIGNIFICANT PIECE OF HISTORY OCCURRED.

Sebak: IT'S GREAT.

DAN'S COHORTS IN LOCAL BASEBALL HISTORY HAVE ALSO MARKED THE BASES FROM OLD EXPOSITION PARK, EACH ONE NOTED SIMPLY WITH A NOT-AT-ALL-FANCY SPRAY-PAINTED MARKER.

Bonk: SO WHEN YOU'RE STANDING NEXT TO SOMETHING THAT LOOKS LIKE A SQUARE WITH A NUMBER IN IT HERE IN THE LOT, CHANCES ARE YOU'RE STANDING NEXT TO A SIGNIFICANT PIECE OF LOCAL HISTORY.

Sebak: SO FOR A LONG TIME, PEOPLE HAVE COME TO THE NORTH SIDE FOR BALLGAMES.

THEY'VE ALSO COME HERE TO SHOP.

EAST OHIO STREET HAS A LONG AND INTERESTING HISTORY AS A LIVELY LITTLE SHOPPING DISTRICT.

TODAY ALONG EAST OHIO STREET, THERE'S A VARIETY OF STORES AND RESTAURANTS AND BUSINESSES, MANY OF THEM HOUSED IN 19th-CENTURY BUILDINGS WHOSE VINTAGE CHARMS ARE NOW BEING RECOGNIZED AND FIXED UP.

THERE ARE A LOT OF FAMILY-OWNED BUSINESSES HERE.

AT 417 EAST OHIO, THERE'S A FUNKY LITTLE RECORD SHOP CALLED STEDEFORD'S THAT'S BEEN ON THE NORTH SIDE SINCE THE LATE '40s.

THEY'VE GOT MUSIC ON CD, CASSETTE, AND VINYL.

WE DO SPECIALIZE RIGHT NOW IN DANCE MUSIC, R&B, HIP-HOP, AND SOME ROCK 'N' ROLL.

Sebak: THEY GET ALL SORTS OF CUSTOMERS, BUT THE MOST LOYAL SEEM TO BE THE FREELANCE DISC JOCKEYS.

Woman: THEY GO OUT OF THEIR WAY TO FIND THE THINGS THAT US DJs NEED.

THIS IS ONE OF THE FEW PLACES THAT YOU CAN COME AND FIND SOME REALLY OFF-THE-WALL SELECTIONS, GET SOME EUROMIXES, THINGS YOU'RE JUST NOT GOING TO FIND ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE CITY.

DARRELL, CAN I HAVE NUMBER 17787, PLEASE?

THANK YOU.

Man: AND A LOT OF THINGS YOU GET ON WAX YOU CAN'T GET ON A CD -- THE LONG VERSIONS OF SONGS AND DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF THINGS.

Man #2: THEY GOT ALL THE SELECTIONS BEFORE IT COMES OUT IN THE OTHER STORES, SO FOR DISC JOCKEYS, IT'S IDEAL.

Sebak: NOW, IF YOU'RE INTO PICTURES MORE THAN MUSIC, YOU MAY WANT TO STOP BY BERNIE'S PHOTO CENTER OR ANY OF ITS RELATED BUSINESSES.

BERNIE KLEIN HAS HAD A SHOP ON EAST OHIO FOR SOME TIME NOW.

Bernie: WELL, I OPENED THE SHOP, BASICALLY, BACK IN '58.

BUT I WAS IN PHOTOGRAPHY BEFORE THE WAR.

I USED TO TAKE PICTURES OF WEDDINGS AND DIFFERENT OCCASIONS, BAR MITZVAHS.

YOU NAME IT, I DID IT.

Sebak: NOW HIS BUSINESS, WHICH INCLUDES FOUR SEPARATE STOREFRONTS ON EAST OHIO, IS RUN BY HIS SON BRUCE KLEIN.

Bruce: IN 1981, I JOINED MY DAD IN HIS BUSINESS, AND THEN WE OPENED UP PITTSBURGH CAMERA EXCHANGE, WHERE WE'RE STANDING RIGHT NOW, AND IT HAS PROBABLY THE LARGEST SUPPLY OF USED CAMERA EQUIPMENT IN THE WORLD.

Sebak: SO, ONCE THEY HAD ALL THESE CAMERAS, THEY MIGHT AS WELL HAVE A LAB THAT DEVELOPS AND PROCESSES FILM, AND PITTSBURGH CUSTOM DARKROOM WAS CREATED.

BERNIE'S HAS BECOME A KIND OF PHOTO EMPIRE NOW.

Bruce: AND WE HAVE PHOTO ANTIQUITIES -- THE ONLY 19th-CENTURY PHOTOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IN THE WORLD STRICTLY DEDICATED TO 19th-CENTURY PHOTOGRAPHY.

Sebak: ACTUALLY, BRUCE'S PHOTO COLLECTION GOES FROM 1839 TO 1939.

HE OFFERED TO GIVE US A TOUR.

AND THIS PHOTO ANTIQUITIES MUSEUM IS AN AMAZING PLACE -- TWO FLOORS OF INCREDIBLE OLD PHOTOGRAPHS.

Bruce: WE SHOW, AT ANY GIVEN TIME, 3,000 PHOTOGRAPHS.

WE HAVE, BETWEEN NEGATIVES AND IMAGES, ALMOST 500,000 IMAGES, SO WE ROTATE THE COLLECTION ON A CONTINUOUS BASIS, SO EVERY TIME YOU COME BACK, YOU'LL SEE SOMETHING NEW.

ALONG HERE WE HAVE DAGUERREOTYPES TAKEN IN THE 1840s.

AS WE GO ALONG HERE, YOU'LL SEE PHOTOGRAPHS FRAMED IN OVAL GLASS.

SOME OF THESE IMAGES ARE TINTYPES, SOME OF THEM ARE SALTED PRINTS.

A LOT OF THEM HAVE BEEN HAND-COLORED.

AND AS WE GO INTO THE NEXT AREA HERE, THIS IS OUR PITTSBURGH ROOM.

INSIDE THIS ROOM WE HAVE IMAGES OF PITTSBURGH AND ALLEGHENY CITY, AND ALONG THE WALLS YOU'LL SEE IMAGES OF PITTSBURGH PHOTOGRAPHERS AND WHERE THEIR STUDIOS WERE LOCATED.

ALONG THE WALL HERE IN THE BACK, WE HAVE PHOTOGRAPHS OF EAST OHIO STREET.

AND YOU CAN SEE IN THE PHOTOGRAPHS, THIS IS THE SITE OF THE OLD S. CARLISLE BUILDING, TAKEN IN THE LATE 1800s.

Sebak: WELL, S. CARLISLE'S HAT SHOP HAS GROWN AND FLOURISHED.

NOWADAYS, CARLISLE'S IS AT 407 TO 411 EAST OHIO STREET.

IT'S TRULY A HISTORIC LANDMARK FOR BRIDES-TO-BE BECAUSE IT CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST BRIDAL SHOP IN AMERICA.

BLAINE WORKMAN, WHO'S PRESIDENT OF CARLISLE'S, IS A DIRECT DESCENDANT OF ITS FOUNDER.

THIS BUSINESS WAS STARTED BY MY GREAT-GREAT-GRANDMOTHER -- HER NAME WAS SOPHIA CARLISLE -- BACK IN 1888.

HER SKILL AND TRADE WAS AS A MILLINER.

AND BACK THEN, BEFORE THE TURN OF THE CENTURY, WHAT BRIDES DID IS THEY FOUND THEIR BEST SUNDAY-GO-TO-MEETING DRESS AND HAD A BEAUTIFUL HAT MADE TO MAKE IT SPECIAL.

Sebak: WELL, THESE DAYS, MOST BRIDES WANT MORE THAN A FANCY HAT... AND YOU GO AHEAD AND JUST PULL THIS UP.

...AND CARLISLE'S HAS LOTS OF OPTIONS TO CHOOSE FROM.

Blaine: WE JUST FOCUS MORE AND MORE ON THAT MOST SPECIAL OF OCCASIONS FOR WOMEN -- THEIR WEDDING.

MILLINERY IS STILL A PART OF OUR BUSINESS -- THE HEADPIECES AND VEILS -- BUT OBVIOUSLY, THE DRESS, THE APPAREL, THE DRESSES FOR THE BRIDE, THE BRIDESMAIDS, ARE THE MAJOR THING.

AND I KNOW YOU'RE WANTING MORE PLAIN AND SIMPLE, BUT I THOUGHT WE'D TRY A LITTLE BIT OF RHINESTONES... WE LIKE TO SAY WE'RE A PITTSBURGH WEDDING TRADITION.

OUR BEST SOURCE OF REFERRALS FOR CUSTOMERS ARE THE MOTHERS WHO HAVE BEEN MARRIED HERE.

I DON'T KNOW IF THAT'S WHAT SHE'S LOOKING FOR, SO LET'S TRY SOMETHING ELSE.

Sebak: WELL, BLAINE'S MOTHER, BETTY WORKMAN, WORKS HERE WITH HIM, AND SHE SAYS THERE'S A LOT TO LIKE IN THIS LINE OF WORK.

Betty: IT'S A HAPPY BUSINESS.

IT'S NOT LIKE RETAIL, PER SE.

IT'S A HAPPY TIME.

VERY FEW PEOPLE ARE GRUMPY -- TILL MAYBE AT THE END -- BUT EVERYBODY'S USUALLY IN A GOOD MOOD IN OUR BUSINESS.

Sebak: WELL, IF YOU'RE IN A GOOD MOOD, OR IF YOU'RE GETTING MARRIED TOMORROW, OR IF YOUR NECK'S GETTING ITCHY, MAYBE IT'S TIME FOR A HAIRCUT.

MORGAN BOYLE WAS IN THE CHAIR AT PAUL DOYLE'S WHEN WE STOPPED BY.

Boyle: PAUL'S BEEN CUTTING MY HAIR FOR ABOUT A YEAR.

I MADE IT ONTO THE WALL.

THAT WAS MY SHINING MOMENT.

Sebak: PAUL'S WALL IS A TRIBUTE TO HIS MANY WELL-COIFFED CUSTOMERS.

HE'S BEEN CUTTING HAIR ON THE NORTH SIDE FOR AGES.

Doyle: THIS SPOT HERE -- I'VE BEEN HERE 16 YEARS, BUT I'VE BEEN ON THE NORTH SIDE 41 YEARS.

THEY TORE ME DOWN FOR ALLEGHENY CENTER.

I WAS ON SANDUSKY STREET.

Sebak: WELL, PAUL DOYLE WASN'T THE ONLY ONE TORN DOWN.

YOU SEE, OHIO STREET USED TO GO STRAIGHT THROUGH THE CENTER OF OLD ALLEGHENY, WHERE IT CREATED A MAJOR CROSSROADS WITH FEDERAL STREET, AND THERE WERE BUSINESSES ALL AROUND HERE FOR MANY YEARS.

THEN IN THE EARLY 1960s, WHEN THE CENTRAL NORTH SIDE WAS STARTING TO LOOK A BIT SHABBY, 518 BUILDINGS WERE DEMOLISHED TO MAKE WAY FOR AN URBAN-RENEWAL PROJECT KNOWN AS ALLEGHENY CENTER.

IT INCLUDED A PARKING GARAGE, A BIG SUBURBAN-STYLE SHOPPING MALL, SOME OFFICES, AND HIGH-RISE APARTMENTS, WITH A ROAD AROUND THE OUTSIDE.

IT HASN'T WORKED OUT VERY WELL.

PEOPLE MISS THE OLD CITY CENTER AND MANY OF THE OLD BUILDINGS AND BUSINESSES, INCLUDING THE BOGGS AND BUHL DEPARTMENT STORE.

MY MOM, PEGGY SEBAK, USED TO WORK THERE WHEN SHE WAS A TEENAGER, SO I ASKED HER TO MEET US IN ALLEGHENY CENTER, NEAR WHERE THE STORE USED TO BE.

EVEN THE OLD STREETS ARE GONE, SO IT'S HARD TO PINPOINT WHERE STUFF USED TO BE.

WHERE WAS BOGGS AND BUHL?

RIGHT AROUND HERE SOMEWHERE.

Sebak: WELL, AT FIRST, BOGGS AND BUHL WAS ON FEDERAL STREET.

IT WAS FOUNDED IN 1869 AS A DRY GOODS BUSINESS BY RUSSELL H. BOGGS AND HENRY BUHL JR. THEIR BUSINESS GREW QUICKLY INTO A FULL-FLEDGED DEPARTMENT STORE THAT EVENTUALLY FILLED THE WHOLE BLOCK.

THEY WERE KNOWN FOR HIGH-QUALITY MERCHANDISE AND A VERY HANDSOME STORE.

Peggy: WELL, I'VE ALWAYS SAID IT WAS ELEGANT.

THE FIXTURES WERE JUST BEAUTIFUL.

THE CEILINGS WERE HIGH.

IT WAS VERY GENTEEL, AND PEOPLE WHO HAD MORE TO SPEND CAME THERE, I THINK.

I WORKED ON THE FIRST FLOOR, JUST OFF TO THE RIGHT THERE.

AND WE HAD TWO COUNTERS FULL OF LADIES' HANDKERCHIEFS.

THEY MADE PERFECT PRESENTS FOR SCHOOLTEACHERS, FOR AUNTIES -- YOU KNOW, PEOPLE LIKE THAT.

Sebak: AFTER WORLD WAR II, BUSINESS FELL OFF AS NORTH SIDERS MOVED TO THE SUBURBS, AND THE STORE CLOSED ON MARCH 22, 1958.

WHAT ELSE DOES MOM REMEMBER AROUND HERE?

WELL, THERE WAS AN ISALY'S ACROSS THE STREET.

I USED TO SNEAK OVER THERE AND CATCH A MILKSHAKE FOR LUNCH!

Sebak: THERE WERE A LOT OF BUSINESSES ALONG FEDERAL STREET FOR MANY YEARS.

AND AT THE CORNER WITH OHIO, THERE WAS THE OLD ALLEGHENY MARKET HOUSE.

Woman: DID YOU KNOW WHERE BOGGS AND BUHL WAS?

WELL, IT WAS RIGHT BY BOGGS AND BUHL.

Sebak: IT WAS A BEAUTY -- BUILT IN 1863, A ONE-STORY BRICK STRUCTURE IN A SORT OF ROMANESQUE STYLE WITH ROUNDED COPPER ROOFING.

HITE'S DRUG STORE WAS ON ONE SIDE OF IT, AND INSIDE WAS THE BIG MARKET HOUSE.

Sebak: THIS PLACE WAS REPEATEDLY PRAISED AS ONE OF THE FINEST MARKET HOUSES IN AMERICA, IF NOT THE WORLD.

I REMEMBER IT MOST FOR THE PET SECTION.

AS A KID GROWING UP, THERE WAS A LITTLE LADY THAT SOLD GOLDFISH AND TURTLES.

IT WAS A GREAT PLACE, AS A KID, TO CHASE EACH OTHER AROUND THE MARKET.

Sebak: IT WAS LITERALLY AND FIGURATIVELY AT THE CENTER OF LIFE ON THE NORTH SIDE.

THE MARKET HOUSE WAS 100 YEARS OLD, BUT STILL IN DECENT SHAPE WHEN IT WAS TOTALLY DEMOLISHED IN THE MID-'60s.

MANY NORTH SIDERS TODAY REMEMBER IT FONDLY, ESPECIALLY AT A FRIDAY FARMER'S MARKET IN A PARKING LOT ACROSS FROM ALLEGHENY CENTER.

Man: THE PLACE WAS ALL COVERED WITH SAWDUST AND ALL OF THESE SMELLS.

IT WAS JUST A GREAT PLACE TO BE.

THE FARMERS HAD THIS, AND THEY HAD MEAT, AND THEY HAD ALL KINDS OF VEGETABLES.

YOU COULDN'T BEAT IT.

YEAH, YOU COULD EAT THERE, AND THEY HAD DIFFERENT STANDS -- MEAT STANDS, AND DIFFERENT NATIONALITY STANDS.

IT WAS RIGHT OVER HERE WHERE THE ALLEGHENY CENTER MALL IS.

Sebak: WELL, THESE NICE, OLD COLOR PICTURES OF THE MARKET IN THE EARLY '60s WERE TAKEN BY AL MAZUKNA.

AL AND HIS WIFE, LOIS, MET US IN MANCHESTER, WHERE HE GREW UP.

HE'S A RETIRED CHEMIST FROM DUQUESNE LIGHT.

Al: ALL OF THE PICTURES THAT I TOOK WERE SLIDES -- COLOR SLIDES.

Lois: HE WOULD USUALLY GO DOWN ON SUNDAYS.

THAT'S THE REASON YOU SEE MOST OF THE PICTURES -- THERE AREN'T TOO MANY PEOPLE ON THE PHOTOGRAPHS.

SO IT WOULD BE SUNDAY AFTERNOON.

Al: THE PICTURES ARE REALLY JUST A DOCUMENTATION OF WHAT WAS THERE.

AND I DIDN'T TRY FOR ART PHOTOGRAPHY OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.

I JUST SHOT PICTURES TO SHOW WHAT WAS THERE.

Sebak: AL MAZUKNA'S SLIDES HAVE TURNED OUT TO BE A VALUABLE RECORD OF THE BYGONE NORTH SIDE.

FAMILIAR STREETS AND BUILDINGS WERE HIS SUBJECTS.

Al: THEY WERE PART OF MY LIFE, AND THEY WERE GOING TO BE TORN DOWN, AND I JUST WANTED TO RECORD WHAT WAS REALLY A PART OF ME.

Sebak: SOME OF AL'S SLIDES ARE WONDERFUL REMINDERS OF PLACES THAT ARE GONE.

OTHER SHOTS HAVE BUILDINGS THAT SURVIVED, LIKE THE OLD POST OFFICE THAT'S NOW THE PITTSBURGH CHILDREN'S MUSEUM.

THERE'S A BIG DOME ON TOP OF THE PLACE, BUILT IN THE 1890s, AND SAVED FROM DESTRUCTION BY PITTSBURGH HISTORY AND LANDMARKS IN THE 1960s.

THE ARCHITECTURE STILL MAKES AN IMPRESSION, SAYS MAGGIE FORBES, WHO'S THE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR HERE.

Forbes: PEOPLE WALK IN, AND THEY DO SAY, "WOW."

THEY SAY "WOW" BECAUSE OF OUR FABULOUS 2-STORY CLIMBING SCULPTURE AND ALL THE WONDERFUL EXHIBITS, BUT I THINK THEY ALSO SAY "WOW" BECAUSE OF THE GORGEOUSNESS OF THIS BUILDING.

THIS BUILDING HAS GIVEN US PERMISSION TO DO THINGS IN A WAY THAT SPEAKS NOT ONLY TO CHILDREN BUT THE ADULTS WHO COME WITH THEM.

Sebak: THERE'S TONS TO SEE AND DO HERE, BUT THE GIANT JUNGLE-GYM SORT OF STRUCTURE KNOWN AS "LUCKY'S CLIMBER" IS WHAT MANY KIDS LIKE MOST.

Forbes: THEY SEE IT AND THEY SAY, "THERE IT IS!"

AND THEY SAY THAT IF THEY'VE BEEN HERE BEFORE, AND THEY SAY THAT IF THEY'VE NEVER BEEN HERE BECAUSE IT'S AS THOUGH THEY WERE HOPING THERE WOULD BE SOMETHING THAT WONDERFUL.

Sebak: ACTUALLY, THERE'S LOTS THAT'S WONDERFUL HERE -- STUFF TO LOOK AT AS WELL AS PLAY WITH.

IT'S WORTH COMING TO THE CHILDREN'S MUSEUM JUST TO SEE THE PUPPET COLLECTION ON THE SECOND FLOOR.

IT'S RECOGNIZED AS ONE OF THE WORLD'S BEST EXHIBITS OF FAMOUS PUPPETS, AND THERE ARE SOME TO TRY YOURSELF.

WHAT'S EXTRA-COOL HERE IS THAT THE EXHIBITS ARE ALWAYS CHANGING, AND EVERY TIME YOU VISIT, IT'S LIKE A NEW CHILDREN'S MUSEUM.

Forbes: IT'S A VERY, VERY SPECIAL PLACE.

IT'S A PRIVILEGE TO BE PART OF IT.

Sebak: WELL, IF YOU'RE NOT FEELING CHILDISH TODAY, OR MAYBE YOU'RE JUST IN THE MOOD FOR A GOOD BOOK, YOU MAY WANT TO WALK A BLOCK EAST AND CHECK OUT ANOTHER EXTRAORDINARY PLACE, THE ALLEGHENY BRANCH OF THE CARNEGIE LIBRARY OF PITTSBURGH.

DEDICATED IN 1890, IT WAS THE FIRST PUBLIC LIBRARY COMMISSIONED BY ANDREW CARNEGIE IN AMERICA, AND IN MANY WAYS IT'S THE MODEL FOR ALL CARNEGIE LIBRARIES AROUND THE WORLD.

IT'S STILL A STATELY PLACE AND A COMFY LIBRARY, BUT HEAD LIBRARIAN CONNIE GALBREATH SHOWED US SOME PHOTOS OF HOW SPECTACULAR IT USED TO BE INSIDE.

THIS FIREPLACE AND THE PORTRAIT MANTEL AREA IS ACTUALLY WHERE WE HAVE THE PORTRAIT OF ANDREW CARNEGIE NOW WITH -- YOU SEE THE TWO DOORWAYS, WHICH WAS THE LIBRARIAN'S OFFICE AND ANOTHER OFFICE, THAT'S WHERE WE HAVE THE RESTROOMS.

AND THAT'S A QUOTE FROM ANDREW CARNEGIE -- "ALLEGHENY WAS MY FIRST LOVE."

THAT'S THE LIBRARY, AS WELL AS THE CITY.

Sebak: WELL, ANDREW CARNEGIE WAS ONCE A BOY HERE IN ALLEGHENY, AND HE WANTED BOOKS TO READ.

THE VOLUMES HE FOUND AT THE LIBRARY OF ONE COLONEL JAMES ANDERSON ARE STILL HERE AT THIS LIBRARY.

STEVE PIETZAK IS A SENIOR REFERENCE LIBRARIAN HERE, AND HE OFFERED TO SHOW US THE OLD ANDERSON BOOKS THAT ARE KEPT UPSTAIRS, LOCKED IN THE RARE-BOOK ROOM.

THIS IS THE COLONEL ANDERSON COLLECTION THAT ANDREW CARNEGIE AND PHIPPS AND OLIVER USED.

AND THESE BOOKS ARE DATED PRIOR TO 1860s.

Sebak: ANDERSON LET THE YOUNG CARNEGIE AND HIS FRIENDS USE THIS LIBRARY FREE OF CHARGE.

Pietzak: IT JUST HAD SO MUCH, LIKE GEOGRAPHY, TRAVEL, MUSIC, LITERATURE, ART, PHILOSOPHY, RELIGION, AND A LOT OF THIS ANDREW CARNEGIE INCORPORATED INTO HIS LIFE, AND IT INFLUENCED HIM THROUGH TIME.

Sebak: READING BOOKS AND LEARNING HISTORY AND STUDYING HAVE ALL BEEN PARTS OF GROWING UP ON THE NORTH SIDE.

EILEEN WILSON WAS A STUDENT ON THE NORTH SIDE BACK IN THE EARLY 1940s, LONG BEFORE THIS BUILDING BECAME MERCY PROVIDENCE HOSPITAL.

Wilson: WELL, WHEN I WAS HERE, IT WAS THE PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL NURSES' HOME.

Sebak: THE BUILDING WAS CONSTRUCTED IN 1906 TO BE PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL, AND IT WAS THAT TILL THE HOSPITAL DECIDED TO MOVE TO OAKLAND IN THE LATE '30s.

THEN, FOR SEVERAL YEARS, IT WAS A DORMITORY FOR STUDENT NURSES WHO WENT BACK AND FORTH TO THE HOSPITAL ON A BIG, BLUE BUS.

THEY STUDIED AND WORKED IN OAKLAND, BUT YOU COULD SAY THEY WERE NORTH SIDE GIRLS.

Wilson: WE DIDN'T GO VERY MANY PLACES IN NORTH SIDE.

WE WENT OVER TO THE THEATER, AND WE WENT TO THE HITE'S DRUG STORE, BECAUSE WE JUST DIDN'T HAVE TIME.

Sebak: WELL, EILEEN'S PHOTOS SHOW THAT THEY DID OCCASIONALLY HAVE TIME FOR SOME GOOD TIMES.

Wilson: THIS WAS DANCES IN THE NURSES' HOME.

THIS WAS WAITING FOR THE BUS TO COME BACK TO THE NURSES' HOME, AND THIS WAS SWIMMING OVER IN THE ALLEGHENY HIGH SCHOOL.

AND WE HAD TO GO SWIMMING IN THE NUDE.

AND WE NEVER COULD FIGURE THAT OUT.

BUT THEY DECIDED THAT -- FOR SOME REASON OR OTHER -- IT WAS MUCH MORE SANITARY IF WE DIDN'T WEAR CLOTHES.

Sebak: WELL, THESE BUSY BUT OCCASIONALLY SKINNY-DIPPING STUDENTS EVENTUALLY BECAME NURSES.

Wilson: YOU KNOW, WHEN WE WENT INTO TRAINING, WE WERE KIDS.

WHEN WE CAME OUT, WE WERE MATURE WOMEN, BECAUSE YOU'RE LIVING WITH LIFE AND DEATH EVERY DAY, AND IT'S A VERY DIFFERENT THING.

Sebak: THE ORIGINAL PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL WAS FOUNDED IN ALLEGHENY AROUND 1895.

10 YEARS EARLIER, ALLEGHENY GENERAL HOSPITAL OPENED ITS DOORS ON STOCKTON AVENUE.

NOW OFTEN JUST CALLED "A.G.H.," ALLEGHENY GENERAL HAS GROWN CONSIDERABLY.

ON EAST NORTH AVENUE, THERE'S A MODERN PART BEHIND THIS 17-STORY-TALL OLDER PART KNOWN AS SOUTH TOWER.

MADE OF PALE YELLOW BRICK IN THE LATE '20s AND EARLY '30s, IT LOOKS LIKE A HOSPITAL FROM A CLASSIC HOLLYWOOD MOVIE.

THE LOBBY LOOKS LIKE A MOVIE SET, TOO.

Man: WELL, IT WAS VERY ELEGANT.

WHEN THIS WAS STARTED, I THINK MOST OF THE PEOPLE WHO ORIGINALLY LIVED ON RIDGE AVENUE WANTED TO MAKE A HOSPITAL WHICH WAS REALLY VERY FIRST-CLASS, NOT ONLY IN STRUCTURE BUT ALSO IN PRACTICE.

Sebak: DR. JAMES GILMORE, WHO'S RETIRED NOW, STARTED TO PRACTICE HERE AT A.G.H.

IN THE LATE '50s.

BUT HE ALSO REMEMBERS ALLEGHENY GENERAL'S EARLIER BUILDING, WHICH WAS LOCATED IN PART OF WHAT'S NOW ALLEGHENY CENTER.

HIS FATHER WORKED THERE.

Dr. Gilmore: HE HAD INTERNED THERE IN 1912, AND THEN WHEN HE CAME BACK FROM THE FIRST WORLD WAR, HE STARTED TO PRACTICE AND CONTINUED TO DO SO UNTIL 1961.

Sebak: ALLEGHENY GENERAL HOSPITAL IS PROBABLY THE BIGGEST REMINDER LEFT OF THE OLD CITY THAT GAVE IT ITS NAME.

Gilmore: IT WAS ESTABLISHED BEFORE ALLEGHENY CITY JOINED THE CITY OF PITTSBURGH, AND SO THE NAME REALLY CAME FROM THE OLD ALLEGHENY CITY, OR GERMANTOWN.

Sebak: GERMANTOWN OR DUTCHTOWN OR DEUTSCHTOWN IS THE NORTH SIDE NEIGHBORHOOD NEAR HERE THAT WAS SETTLED LARGELY BY GERMAN IMMIGRANTS IN THE 19th CENTURY.

YOU CAN STILL GET SOME GREAT GERMAN FOOD IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD, CERTAINLY AT THE PLACE CALLED MAX'S ALLEGHENY TAVERN.

Woman: AND WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TONIGHT?

I'LL HAVE THE JAEGERSCHNITZEL.

WELL, WHEN YOU THINK OF ANY GERMAN FOOD, ONE OF THE FIRST DISHES THAT COMES TO MIND IS SAUERKRAUT.

Sebak: BERNIE DIEGELMAN IS A LINE COOK IN MAX'S KITCHEN AND SAYS THEY PUT THEIR EXTRAORDINARY SAUERKRAUT IN LOTS OF DISHES.

Diegelman: WE HAVE A REGULAR REUBEN.

WE HAVE A POTATO REUBEN.

WE HAVE KIELBASI AND SAUERKRAUT.

WE HAVE A PORK CHOP DINNER WHERE THE KRAUT IS SERVED UNDER THE CHOPS, AND IT CAN ALSO BE SERVED AS A SIDE DISH.

Sebak: EVEN IF YOU DON'T GET THE DELICIOUS DARK SAUERKRAUT, THERE ARE LOTS OF SPECIALTIES TO TASTE.

OKAY, I HAVE YOUR APPETIZERS TONIGHT.

THERE ARE SEVERAL DINING ROOMS AND A BAR, AND JAN PUGLIN, THE BARTENDER, CAN TELL YOU EVEN THE BAR ITSELF IS UNUSUAL.

Puglin: WELL, THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN TOLD -- THAT THE BAR WAS ORIGINALLY BUILT FOR THE ST. LOUIS EXPOSITION, WHICH WAS 1890-SOMETHING.

AND AFTER THE EXPOSITION WAS OVER, THEY SHIPPED IT HERE.

MAYBE IT WAS 1870-SOMETHING.

I DON'T KNOW.

I'M NOT UP ON MY HISTORY.

I WISH I WOULD HAVE DONE SOME HOMEWORK.

I WISH I WOULD'VE KNOWN THIS.

I WOULD'VE REREAD THE MENU.

I HAVEN'T READ IT IN YEARS.

Sebak: THE MENU HAS THE HISTORY OF THIS PLACE, AND THEY'VE KEPT THE OLD FLOOR AND COOLERS, AND PEOPLE EVEN TALK ABOUT THE OLD WOODEN PHONE BOOTH.

Puglin: IT'S NOT EVEN SO MUCH THAT THEY TALK ABOUT THE FUNKY, OLD PHONE BOOTH.

ORIGINALLY, THE ONLY PAY PHONE WE HAD WAS IN THE MEN'S ROOM.

AND IN FACT, BEFORE I STARTED WORKING HERE, MY ROOMMATE AT THE TIME WORKED AS A NURSE UP AT ALLEGHENY GENERAL, AND MARY CALLED ME AND SAID, "WHY DON'T YOU COME TO THIS PLACE AND MEET ME AFTER WORK?"

AND THEN I HEARD A FLUSH.

AND I'M LIKE, "WHERE ARE YOU?!"

AND SHE SAID, "I'M AT THIS PLACE, "MAX'S ALLEGHENY TAVERN, AND THE ONLY PAY PHONE IS IN THE MEN'S ROOM."

AND OCCASIONALLY WOMEN STILL GO IN THERE TO MAKE A PHONE CALL, SO THEY SAY.

DAVE, YOU READY?

DAVE, I'M TAKING ALL THAT FRUIT OUT SO ANNIE DOESN'T KNOW HOW LONG YOU WERE HERE.

SHE TOLD ME I HAVE TO KEEP AN EYE ON YOU TODAY.

I THINK WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL IS EVERYBODY HERE IS REALLY CLOSE.

IT'S LIKE A FAMILY ATMOSPHERE.

WE'RE ALL CAUGHT UP IN EACH OTHER'S LIVES.

PEOPLE FEEL REALLY COMFORTABLE HERE.

Sebak: YOU KNOW WHAT?

IT DOES FEEL COMFORTABLE HERE.

AND JAN SAYS THEY SERVE A LOT OF DRAFT BEER, AND THEY'VE GOT THE RED TAP FOR PENN PILSNER THAT'S MADE JUST A FEW BLOCKS AWAY.

TOM AND MARY BETH PASTORIUS HAD LIVED IN GERMANY, LOVED THE BEER, AND WHEN THEY CAME BACK TO AMERICA, THEY DECIDED TO OPEN A BREWERY.

THEY EVENTUALLY FIXED UP THE OLD, ABANDONED EBERHARDT AND OBER BREWERY BUILDINGS, AND IN THE LATE '80s, THEY OPENED PENN BREWERY, THE FIRST BREWERY/RESTAURANT IN PENNSYLVANIA.

I SIMPLY WANTED TO BRING A GERMAN BREWERY TO THE UNITED STATES AND MAKE GERMAN BEER.

I THINK PEOPLE REALLY APPRECIATE THE AUTHENTICITY HERE WHEN THEY COME.

THEY LOVE THESE OLD BUILDINGS AND THE IDEA THAT THERE'S BEEN BEER MADE HERE SINCE 1848.

Tom: WE ENJOY TAKING RAW MATERIALS, COMBINING THEM IN SOME WAY WITH SOME SKILL AND MAKING A PRODUCT THAT OTHER PEOPLE ENJOY AND ARE WILLING TO PAY A PREMIUM FOR.

Mary Beth: WE CALL OUR BEERS THE DRINKABLE MICROBREWS, AND THEY TASTE GREAT WITH FOOD AND ALSO BY THEMSELVES.

Sebak: THEY NOW MAKE 13 DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF BEER, AND THEY THROW SOME GREAT PARTIES, ESPECIALLY IN LATE SEPTEMBER.

Tom: WELL, OKTOBERFEST TIME, WE ROLL OUT THE BARREL, PUT UP THE FEST TENTS OUTSIDE.

WE ROAST WHOLE PIGS ON THE SPIT ON THE OPEN FIRE.

Mary Beth: WE'RE PURISTS, SO WE HAVE OUR OKTOBERFEST AT EXACTLY THE SAME TIME THEY DO IN GERMANY.

Tom: THERE'S DANCING.

Mary Beth: LOTS OF FUN.

WALL-TO-WALL PEOPLE.

Tom: OF COURSE, GREAT FOOD.

Mary Beth: PULLED-PORK SANDWICHES... GRILLED SAUSAGES...

HOT POTATO SALAD.

Tom: AND A LOT OF THAT WONDERFUL OKTOBERFEST BEER.

EIN, ZWEI, DREI, ZOOPA!

TICKY TOCKY TICKY TOCKY, OY, OY, OY!

[ OKTOBERFEST MUSIC PLAYS ] Mary Beth: ONE OF MY FRIENDS CAME A FEW YEARS AGO AND WAS ABSOLUTELY ASTOUNDED BY HOW MANY PEOPLE WERE HERE AND TOLD ME, "MARY BETH, IF SOMEONE PASSED OUT, THEY WOULD NOT HIT THE GROUND."

Man: THERE'S A LOT OF GERMANS.

I'M GERMAN.

AND THEY'RE RIGHT UP ON THE HILL HERE.

JUST SAY, "HEY!

OKTOBERFEST!"

AND EVERYBODY JUST ROLLED DOWN THE HILL.

[ German accent ] WE'RE ENJOYING THE BEER HERE.

JAWOHL!

PROSIT!

Woman: I'VE GOT THE SHISH KEBAB AND THE GERMAN POTATO SALAD, PORK, AND SHE'S GOT THIS, AND WE'RE GOING TO SWITCH IT AROUND.

ANY PLACE THERE'S GERMAN FOOD OR GERMAN BEER, I'LL BE THERE.

Man: WELL, WE DO ALL OUR SAUSAGE IN PENN PILSNER, OF COURSE.

AND THERE'S ALSO BEER IN OUR SAUERKRAUT.

THIS BEER IS BREWED AFTER THE BAVARIAN REINHEITSGEBOT, SO IT'S REALLY GOOD.

YOU KNOW WHAT?

I'D LIKE TO HAVE A BEER RIGHT HERE.

EIN, ZWEI, ZOOPA!

PROSIT!

TICKY TOCKY TICKY TOCKY, OY OY OY!

WE'LL DRINK TO THAT!

Woman: AND SOMEDAY, I'M GOING TO MAKE BEER IN MY OWN BASEMENT AS GOOD AS THIS.

GOOD, HEAVY, DARK BEER.

EVERYTHING GOES WITH IT.

Man: IT'S NOT A FUNNY HAT.

IT'S A REAL TYROLLER...HAT.

I'M SORRY, I KISSED A PIG!

I'M FROM GERMANY.

I'VE ALWAYS BEEN VERY HOMESICK.

TONIGHT I HAVE ONE OF THE VERY FEW NIGHTS I FEEL AT HOME.

Sebak: WHEN YOU LEAVE OKTOBERFEST, YOU MAY THINK THE EVENING'S OVER, BUT NOT YET.

LOOK UP AT THE NIGHT SKY.

FOR SOME REASON, THE NORTH SIDE HAS LONG BEEN A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE HAVE TAKEN SPECIAL DELIGHT IN LOOKING AT THE STARS.

IN THE 1860s, THE FIRST ALLEGHENY OBSERVATORY WAS CONSTRUCTED ON WHAT'S NOW PERRY HILLTOP.

THE OBSERVATORY GAINED GREAT FAME FOR SEVERAL REANS, INCLUDING SAMUEL LANGLEY'S PRECISE METHOD OF STANDARDIZING TIME BY THE STARS, AND IN 1895, JAMES KEELER DISCOVERED HERE THAT THE RINGS OF SATURN WERE NOT SOLID, BUT COMPOSED OF TINY PARTICLES.

A NEW ALLEGHENY OBSERVATORY WAS BUILT IN THE EARLY 1900s IN RIVERVIEW PARK, NEAR THE NORTHERN EDGE OF THE NORTH SIDE.

INSIDE, THERE'S A STATUE OF JOHN BRASHEAR, MUCH REVERED AS A MANUFACTURER OF LENSES AND TELESCOPES.

HE WAS INSTRUMENTAL IN THE SCIENTIFIC SUCCESS OF THIS BUILDING.

AND IN THE BASE OF ONE OF THE THREE TELESCOPES HERE, IN A BEAUTIFUL TILED CRYPT, HE AND HIS WIFE, PHOEBE, ARE BURIED.

BRASHEAR WANTED THIS OBSERVATORY TO BE A PLACE WHERE ANYONE COULD COME AND LOOK AT THE HEAVENS.

THE NIGHT WE WENT, ART GLASER WAS GIVING THE TOUR.

SOMETIMES PEOPLE THAT HAVE COME IN HERE HAVE LIVED DOWN THE STREET FOR 30 AND 40 YEARS, AND THEY'VE NEVER, EVER DARED TO WALK UP THE HILL TO FIND OUT WHAT'S INSIDE.

BUT WHAT THEY REALLY WANT TO SEE THE NIGHT THEY COME HERE IS THEY WANT TO LOOK THROUGH A BIG TELESCOPE.

THEY'D LIKE TO SEE THE MOON, LIKE TO SEE SATURN, LIKE TO SEE JUPITER, BIG PLANETS, AND THAT EXCITES PEOPLE, AND I THINK IT EXCITES BRASHEAR.

I THINK BRASHEAR'S DOWN THERE THINKING WE'RE DOING A GOOD JOB.

Sebak: WELL, IN EARLY 1997, PEOPLE HERE AT THE OBSERVATORY AND AROUND THE WORLD WERE LOOKING AT THE COMET HALE-BOPP WHEN IT WAS MOST VISIBLE.

AND HALE-BOPP HAS AN UNEXPECTED CONNECTION TO THE NORTH SIDE, TOO.

THOMAS BOPP, ONE OF THE COMET'S DISCOVERERS, RAISED IN YOUNGSTOWN, OHIO, USED TO COME HERE AS A BOY.

I'VE ALWAYS LOVED JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING IN THE SKY.

AS A CHILD, MY MOM AND DAD BROUGHT THE CHILDREN DOWN HERE TO BUHL PLANETARIUM.

AND IT'S A GREAT INSPIRATION TO ME TO WATCH A SKY PROGRAM, TO SEE THE PROJECTED IMAGES ON THE DOME, AND TO MARVEL AT, "HOW DID THEY DO THAT?"

YOU KNOW?

Sebak: AW, PEOPLE WHO LOVE THE SKY ALWAYS WANT TO ASK QUESTIONS.

IN 1930, LEO SCANLON BUILT A SMALL OBSERVATORY IN HIS BACKYARD BECAUSE HE WANTED A CLEARER VIEW THROUGH HIS HOMEMADE TELESCOPE.

HE DEVISED A SMALL, ALUMINUM DOME THAT BECAME THE PROTOTYPE FOR ALL SHINY METAL DOMES THAT ARE COMMON AT OBSERVATORIES TODAY.

BECAUSE OF THIS DOME AND HIS MANY ACTIVITIES WITH THE AMATEUR ASTRONOMERS ASSOCIATION OF PITTSBURGH, LEO GOT TO MEET ALBERT EINSTEIN WHEN HE CAME TO TOWN IN 1934.

Scanlon: WE TALKED MOSTLY ABOUT THE THINGS THAT I WAS SHOWING HIM, BUT AT THE END OF IT, HE SAID, "WHAT IS YOUR PROFESSION?"

I SAID, "WELL, I'M A SANITATION ENGINEER."

I DIDN'T LIKE TO SAY "PLUMBER."

BUT HE SAID, "FINE.

CAN YOU SHOW ME THE WAY TO THE RESTROOM?"

[ LAUGHING ] Sebak: LEO, WHO WAS BORN IN 1903 IN ALLEGHENY CITY, WILL BE LONG REMEMBERED FOR HIS INGENUITY AND HIS LOVE OF THE SKY.

Scanlon: I HAVE A DEEP AFFECTION FOR ALL THE STARS AND PLANETS, YES.

IT HAS BEEN THAT WAY THROUGHOUT MY LIFE.

AND THE WONDER OF IT ALL.

HOW DID THIS THING HAPPEN?

THEY TALK ABOUT A BIG BANG WAS THE START OF THIS THING, BUT WHAT WAS BEFORE THE BIG BANG?

I KEEP WONDERING ABOUT THINGS I DON'T UNDERSTAND.

Sebak: THE HEAVENS WILL MAKE YOU WONDER.

THE STARS HERE ON THE NORTH SIDE ARE THE SAME ONES YOU CAN SEE AROUND THE WORLD, BUT WHERE YOU STAND TO LOOK UP APPARENTLY DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE.

THE NORTH SIDE HAS BEEN A BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL PLACE FOR MANY YEARS.

THERE HAVE BEEN CHANGES, NOT ALWAYS FOR THE BETTER, BUT PEOPLE STILL FIND LOTS OF REASONS TO LOVE LIVING HERE.

IT'S A FASCINATING, SURPRISING, UNFORGETTABLE PART OF THIS UNIVERSE WE CALL HOME.

-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com