ICE CREAM.

IT MAY BE THE BEST THING ON EARTH.

OH, IT'S FATTENING AND FATTY, BUT IT'S AN AMAZINGLY SATISFYING FOOD THAT MAKES ALMOST EVERYBODY HAPPY.

WE CAME ALL THE WAY FROM WISCONSIN FOR THIS ICE CREAM.

Narrator: ON A PER CAPITA BASIS, EVERY AMERICAN EATS ABOUT SIX GALLONS A YEAR, TAKING ADVANTAGE OF AN EVER-CHANGING VARIETY OF FLAVORS.

ICE CREAM!

GET YOUR ICE CREAM!

FOR THE NEXT HOUR, WE'RE GOING TO CONSIDER SOME OF THE JOYS OF ICE CREAM.

Woman: OH, IT'S SO GOOD!

WE'LL LOOK AT SOME HISTORY.

AND WE'LL VISIT SOME COOL ICE CREAM PLACES, MOSTLY SMALL SHOPS WHERE THEY TAKE A LOT OF CARE WITH THE PRODUCT.

GOOD.

WE'LL TRAVEL FROM CAPE COD TO HAWAII.

WE'LL MEET PEOPLE WHO COLLECT ICE CREAM STUFF, AND WE'LL TALK WITH PEOPLE WHO KNOW A LOT ABOUT MAKING ICE CREAM.

THAT'S A GREAT FLAVOR.

WE'LL GO TO BEN & JERRY'S UP IN VERMONT, AND WE'LL STOP AT PENN STATE UNIVERSITY, WHERE PEOPLE COME FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD TO STUDY AMERICA'S FAVORITE FROZEN DESSERT.

WE'RE GOING TO CALL THIS "AN ICE CREAM SHOW."

Woman: HERE YOU GO.

"AN ICE CREAM SHOW" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY... ...AND BY ANNUAL FINANCIAL SUPPORT FROM... EVERYBODY KNOWS A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN GET GOOD ICE CREAM THESE DAYS.

BUT WE'RE GOING TO START IN PHILADELPHIA, AT THE OLD READING TERMINAL DOWNTOWN.

THE FIRST FLOOR IS A MARKET, FULL OF SHOPS.

EVERYONE HERE KNOWS WHERE TO GET ICE CREAM.

ICE CREAM.

RIGHT DOWN HERE.

RIGHT DOWN BASSETT'S.

BASSETT'S IS A CLASSY, LITTLE ICE CREAM PLACE.

NOT MUCH MORE THAN A GRAY MARBLE COUNTER WITH ICE CREAM FREEZERS BEHIND, IT'S BEEN SERVING ICE CREAM SINCE THIS MARKET OPENED IN 1892.

MICHAEL STRANGE -- WHOSE MOTHER IS A BASSETT -- IS NOW THE PRESIDENT OF BASSETT'S ICE CREAM.

HE SAYS THAT THEY SERVE A LOT OF FLAVORS, BUT VANILLA IS THE MOST POPULAR, AND THAT IT'S HERE IN PHILADELPHIA THAT PEOPLE FIRST LEARNED TO LOOK FOR FLECKS OF VANILLA BEAN IN THE ICE CREAM.

Man: IF A CUSTOMER COMES UP AND ORDERS A PLATE OR A DISH, YOU CAN BE ALMOST CERTAIN THEY'VE HAD BASSETT'S ICE CREAM BEFORE.

IF THEY ORDER A CONE OR A CUP, THEY'RE LIKELY TO BE VISITORS OR PEOPLE FROM OUT OF TOWN.

WELL, I'M A PHILADELPHIAN.

AND, YOU KNOW, IF YOU'RE A PHILADELPHIAN, YOU KNOW ABOUT BASSETT'S ICE CREAM.

IT'S AN INSTITUTION.

WE HAVE ONE LADY THAT COME HERE FOR A MILKSHAKE EVERY SINGLE DAY.

IT'S MY FIRST TIME, BUT IT'S FANTASTIC.

BELIEVE ME.

OKAY, MY FAVORITE, FRENCH VANILLA.

Narrator: MICHAEL'S COUSIN, ROGER BASSETT, SAYS IF YOU GET A DISH OF THE STUFF, YOU'LL SEE IT'S SERVED IN SORT OF A SLAB RATHER THAN A ROUNDED SCOOP.

Bassett: THERE IS THE PERFECT SMALL DISH OF FRENCH VANILLA ICE CREAM.

THIS IS HOW WE USED TO DO IT BACK IN THE OLD DAYS -- MY GRANDFATHER AND GREAT-GRANDFATHER -- SLIDE IT RIGHT DOWN TO THE CUSTOMER.

RIGHT IN FRONT OF HIM.

JUST LIKE THAT.

ROGER AND MICHAEL KNOW HOW IT USED TO BE BECAUSE THEY'VE GOT OLD FAMILY MOVIES.

[ ROARING '20s MUSIC PLAYS ] Strange: WELL, MY GRANDFATHER MADE THE MOVIES.

AND BECAUSE HE THOUGHT IT WOULD BE FUN FOR HIS CUSTOMERS, HE TOOK HOME MOVIES OF THE ICE CREAM BEING MADE IN THE BASEMENT OF THE MARKET.

IT WAS MADE IN THE BASEMENT OF THE MARKET UP UNTIL 25 YEARS AGO.

AND HE FILMED THE SERVERS ACTUALLY SLIDING THE ICE CREAM ON THE COUNTER.

Narrator: FASHIONS HAVE CHANGED, BUT THE GREAT ICE CREAM HASN'T.

JENNY LEARY SAYS SHE'S BEEN COMING HERE FOR AT LEAST 75 YEARS.

Leary: IT WAS ALWAYS LIKE THIS.

AT THE LOWER END, THEY SOLD CHEESE.

AND THEY PASSED THE CHEESE OVER THE HEADS OF THE PEOPLE THAT WERE SITTING THERE.

AND SOMETIMES THEY DROPPED THE MONEY IN THE ICE CREAM AND YOU GOT A SECOND DISH.

THAT HAPPENED TO ME ONCE.

Narrator: BASSETT'S ICE CREAM IS PROBABLY THE OLDEST FAMILY-OWNED ICE CREAM COMPANY IN AMERICA, MAYBE ANYWHERE.

THEY KNOW WHAT THEIR CUSTOMERS LIKE.

WHEN YOU EAT ICE CREAM, YOU TEND TO GET THIRSTY, AND THERE'S NOTHING THAT WILL QUENCH THAT THIRST BETTER THAN ICE-COLD WATER.

SO WE HAVE PITCHERS OF ICE WATER ON THE COUNTER.

THEY THINK IT'S SPRING WATER.

MAYBE 'CAUSE OF THE ICE THAT WE PUT IN IT.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS.

Strange: I'VE HAD MORE THAN ONE CUSTOMER TELL ME THIS IS THE BEST WATER THEY'VE EVER HAD, BUT THE TRUTH OF THE MATTER IS, IT'S REALLY JUST PHILADELPHIA TAP WATER.

IT JUST TASTES SO GOOD WITH ICE CREAM.

Narrator: ALL ICE CREAM STARTS ON A DAIRY FARM -- WITH COWS, MAKING RICH AND CREAMY MILK.

COWS' MILK HAS ABOUT 4% OF WHAT'S CALLED "MILK FAT" OR "BUTTERFAT."

IT'S AN IMPORTANT FACTOR IN MAKING ICE CREAM, WHICH USUALLY HAS ABOUT 10% BUTTERFAT.

CREAMIER PRODUCTS LIKE PREMIUM ICE CREAM HAVE 12% TO 14%, AND SUPER PREMIUMS HAVE 16% OR MORE.

HOW DO YOU RAISE THE BUTTERFAT?

BY ADDING MORE HEAVY CREAM, WHICH CAN BE 40% OR MORE BUTTERFAT.

A BASIC ICE CREAM RECIPE INCLUDES CREAM, MILK, SUGAR, AND THEN FLAVORINGS.

AIR IS ALSO ESSENTIAL.

AIR IS WHIPPED INTO THE MIX SO THE LIQUID WON'T FREEZE INTO A SOLID BLOCK.

PREMIUM ICE CREAMS USUALLY HAVE LESS AIR.

PEOPLE WHO WANT TO KNOW AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE ABOUT THE SCIENCE OF MAKING ICE CREAM OFTEN HEAD FOR ONE PLACE -- PENN STATE UNIVERSITY.

PENN STATE WAS THE FIRST PLACE TO OFFER COLLEGE-LEVEL INSTRUCTION IN ICE CREAM.

AND ATTACHED TO THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES, THERE'S A DAIRY STORE CALLED "THE CREAMERY," WHERE THE ICE CREAM CONES ARE LEGENDARY.

Man: MY THREE FAVORITES WOULD BE KEENEY BEANIE, DEATH BY CHOCOLATE, AND CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH.

Man: ALL ICE CREAM HAS ITS LOYAL CUSTOMERS.

BUT THE CREAMERY ICE CREAM IS VERY, VERY FRESH.

MADE WITH VERY FRESH INGREDIENTS.

ON A WARM SUMMER DAY, WHEN THINGS ARE GOING FULL PRODUCTION, SOME OF OUR ICE CREAM WAS GRASS JUST THREE OR FOUR DAYS AGO.

Narrator: WELL, TOM PALCHAK, WHO MANAGES THE CREAMERY, SAYS HOW YOU SCOOP IS ALSO IMPORTANT.

Palchak: AN ICE CREAM CONE THAT'S MADE PROPERLY SHOULD NOT BE SHOVELED OUT OF THE BULK CAN.

IF YOU SHOVEL IT OUT, YOU WILL FORCE THE AIR OUT OF THE ICE CREAM AND CHANGE ITS TEXTURE.

Narrator: SO THE BEST WAY TO DO IT IS TO CUT THROUGH THE ICE CREAM WITH THE SCOOP.

AND IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, YOU END UP WITH A GREAT-LOOKING CONE.

LIKE THAT.

Man: BASICALLY, THERE'S ONLY ONE SIZE.

YOU CANNOT GET A SMALL, MEDIUM, OR LARGE, JUST BECAUSE IT'S BEEN TRADITION HERE AT THE CREAMERY THAT YOU'VE ALWAYS MADE ONE SIZE, ONE FLAVOR.

WE DON'T MIX FLAVORS.

Narrator: AND THEY'VE ONLY GOT ONE KIND OF CONE.

STILL, THEY GET LOTS OF QUESTIONS.

Woman: WHAT'S "BLACK COW"?

IT'S ROOT BEER "SHERBERT" AND VANILLA ICE CREAM.

IT'S A "SHER-BET."

[ Together ] "SHER-BET!"

EVERYBODY HAS THEIR USUAL QUESTIONS.

AND WE'RE ALWAYS LIKE, "OH, NO, NOT THIS..." PEOPLE ASK, "WHAT'S IN YOUR CHOCOLATE?"

JUST CHOCOLATE.

Palchak: THE ICE CREAM IS MADE IN ROOM 14 IN BORLAND LABORATORY.

IT'S MADE RIGHT BEHIND THE SALES ROOM HERE.

Narrator: THAT'S WHY THIS ICE CREAM CAN BE SO FRESH.

THEY MAKE IT RIGHT HERE AND SELL IT ONLY ON CAMPUS.

IT'S A SMALL ICE CREAM PLANT, MAKING ABOUT 4,000 GALLONS A WEEK.

THAT INCLUDES ONE OF PENN STATE'S MOST FAMOUS FLAVORS, PEACHY PATERNO, NAMED FOR THE UNIVERSITY'S AMAZINGLY POPULAR FOOTBALL COACH, JOE PATERNO.

Palchak: THE FLAVORING IN OUR PEACHY PATERNO ICE CREAM IS ABOUT $160 A GALLON.

THAT'S THE PEACH ESSENCE OF THE OILS FROM THE PEACH.

Narrator: AND AFTER THE MIX MEETS THE PEACHES AND THEY'RE FROZEN TOGETHER, SAM SHAWVER, THE PRODUCTION MANAGER HERE, HAS THE ENVIABLE TASK OF TASTING.

Shawver: IT'S LIKE SOFT SERVE.

IT'S BRIGHT, FLUFFY.

RIGHT THERE IS THE BEST WAY TO EAT IT.

Narrator: SO THE FRESHER, THE BETTER, WHEN IT COMES TO ICE CREAM.

AND IF YOU'RE LUCKY, THE LINE AT THE CREAMERY WON'T BE TOO LONG.

Man: I KNOW MANY PEOPLE WHO COME HERE FOR FOOTBALL GAMES OR MEETINGS WHO MAKE THIS TRIP TO THE CREAMERY STORE AS IF IT WERE A RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE.

IT IS DEFINITELY A PILGRIMAGE TYPE OF A TREK.

Narrator: DR.

ARUN KILARA, ORIGINALLY FROM INDIA, TEACHES "ICE CREAM" AND RELATED FOOD SCIENCES AT PENN STATE.

AND HE'S THE PROFESSOR IN CHARGE OF WHAT'S KNOWN AS "THE ICE CREAM SHORT COURSE."

Kilara: THINK OF IT AS A CONDENSED VERSION OF A SEMESTER'S WORTH OF INSTRUCTION ON ICE CREAM MANUFACTURING, CONDENSED INTO TWO WEEKS.

AND ANYBODY WHO IS INTERESTED IN ICE CREAM MANUFACTURING CAN COME HERE AND LEARN TO MAKE GOOD, QUALITY ICE CREAM.

VERY GOOD.

Narrator: THE SHORT COURSE HAS BEEN TAUGHT AT PENN STATE SINCE 1892.

AND EVERY JANUARY, PEOPLE COME FROM AROUND THE WORLD TO STUDY HERE.

Kilara: LAST YEAR WE HAD PEOPLE FROM 15 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES -- FROM EUROPE, FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA, AND MEXICO, AND SOUTH AMERICA.

Narrator: WELL, IS THERE SOME UNIVERSAL, SCIENTIFIC SECRET FOR GOOD ICE CREAM?

Kilara: DOING EVERYTHING RIGHT.

IT SOUNDS KIND OF SIMPLISTIC AND HOKEY, BUT ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND ATTENTION TO QUALITY -- STARTING FROM THE INGREDIENT, AND THE PROCESS OF PUTTING THESE INGREDIENTS TOGETHER.

IT IS LIKE A SYMPHONY, WHERE EVERY ASPECT OF THIS HAS A ROLE TO PLAY, AND WHEN THESE ALL COME TOGETHER IN THE PROPER MANNER, YOU GET A VERY ENJOYABLE, PROFITABLE OUTCOME.

Narrator: AND ENJOYING THE OUTCOME CAN BE ENHANCED WHEN YOU FIND A PLACE WITH AN OLD NEON SIGN AND A BIG, BRIGHT CONE OUT FRONT.

Man: WELL, ORIGINALLY "CARL'S FROZEN CUSTARD," NOW IT'S "CARL'S CREME, SHAKES, SUNDAES."

WE'RE IN FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA, AND WE'VE BEEN HERE SINCE 1947.

Narrator: AT FIRST, CARL SPONSELLER SERVED HIS ICE CREAM FROM A WINDOW IN AN OLD, CONVERTED GARAGE.

THEN HE DESIGNED THIS PLACE, WHICH HE DOESN'T OWN ANYMORE, BUT IT'S STILL IN THE FAMILY.

IT NOW BELONGS TO HIS BROTHER, HIS NIECE, AND HIS NEPHEW, AND THEY STILL MAKE AN OLD-FASHIONED KIND OF FRESH, SOFT ICE CREAM.

CARL'S NEPHEW, DAN, SCOOPS A LOT OF THE STUFF.

Dan: IN VIRGINIA, WE CAN'T CALL IT "CUSTARD" BECAUSE WE HAVE A FEW FUNNY STATE LAWS.

Carl: BACK IN THE '50s, THEY REWROTE THE ICE CREAM LAW IN VIRGINIA.

SAID THAT FROZEN CUSTARD HAD TO HAVE EGG YOLKS -- 4% BY VOLUME, EGG YOLKS.

AND WE TRIED IT, AND IT WAS TERRIBLE.

SO WE JUST TOOK THE FROZEN CUSTARD OFF AND PUT A NEW SIGN UP -- "CARL'S CREME, SHAKES" -- AND BUSINESS INCREASED AFTER THAT.

Narrator: EVERY DAY HERE, THEY ONLY MAKE ENOUGH PRODUCT FOR THAT DAY, ACCORDING TO CARL'S NIECE, RAMONA SPONSELLER.

THE ICE CREAM IS VERY CREAMY, VERY GOOD.

I CAN'T TELL YOU THE SECRET OR IT WOULDN'T BE A SECRET, RIGHT?

IT'S ACTUALLY THE MACHINES.

THEY DON'T MAKE THEM LIKE THEY USED TO.

Dan: THE NEW ONES WILL ACTUALLY WHIP UP THE ICE CREAM.

THE OLD ICE CREAM MACHINES DON'T DO THAT.

AND OUR ICE CREAM IS VERY SOLID AND VERY HEAVY.

IT'S LIKE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EATING CHEESECAKE AND CREAM CAKE.

Narrator: YOU KNOW, THAT LITTLE TWIST AT THE TOP IS PRETTY SPIFFY.

Carl: IT'S JUST A UNIQUE THING.

THEY DON'T DO IT, BUT ONLY ON THE CONES.

WE USED TO PUT IT ON THE DISHES AND STUFF LIKE THAT, BUT THEY ONLY PUT THE CURL ON THE CONES.

FOR THE TOP DIP, SO THAT THE ICE CREAM COMES OUT EASY, YOU NOTICE I DIDN'T PRESS IT INTO THE SIDE OF THE DIPPER.

YOU WANT TO ACTUALLY JUST SET THE DIP ON FIRMLY, THEN YOU SQUEEZE THE DIPPER HALFWAY, AND YOU TILT THE DIPPER OFF.

WHEN YOU FINISH SQUEEZING, YOU WANT TO ACTUALLY, WANT TO TWIST THE DIPPER STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.

Narrator: OLD CARL DIDN'T INVENT THIS TWIRL.

HE LEARNED IT WHILE SCOOPING CUSTARD AT THE OLD WASHINGTON HOOVER AIRPORT IN D.C.

Carl: AND WOULD YOU BELIEVE, I SERVED AMELIA EARHART AND HER HUSBAND A CONE OF ICE CREAM IN THAT PLACE THE FIRST YEAR I WORKED.

AND SHE LAUGHED AT THAT CURL I PUT ON IT, YOU KNOW.

Narrator: YOU KNOW THE ICE CREAM HAS GOT TO BE GOOD IF PEOPLE WILL LINE UP FOR IT.

Ramona: IT'S A SOCIAL EVENT.

IT'S A LOT OF FUN.

IT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOU'LL SEE WHERE PEOPLE ACTUALLY TALK TO EACH OTHER AND DON'T MIND STANDING IN LINE.

Woman: TELL YOU THE HONEST-TO-GOD'S TRUTH, MY SISTER MADE ME COME.

SHE JUST GOT OFF WORK, AND THERE WAS A LINE WRAPPED AROUND.

SHE WAS LIKE, "I DON'T CARE, LET'S COME ANYWAY."

SO I STOOD IN LINE, THEN I HAD TO BUY IT FOR HER ANYWAY.

Woman: JUST HAS THE BEST TASTE.

THE BEST TASTE.

WITH HEAT LIKE THIS, YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT.

HEAT LIKE THIS.

EVEN WHEN I WAS A LITTLE KID, I'D COME HERE AND PIG OUT ON ICE CREAM, I'M AFRAID.

IT'S GOOD ICE CREAM.

AND YOU KNOW, LITTLE KIDS LOVE ICE CREAM.

SAY "IT'S AWESOME."

YOU GOING TO SAVE ANY FOR DAD?

OKAY.

OLD-FASHIONED ICE CREAM IS THE BIG ATTRACTION HERE, BUT PART OF CARL'S CHARM MAY ALSO COME FROM THE FACT THAT IT'S ONE OF A KIND.

IT'S ONLY HERE IN FREDERICKSBURG.

BUT LITTLE PLACES WITH GREAT ICE CREAM HAVE SOMETIMES LED TO PHENOMENAL NATIONAL SUCCESS.

IN THE 1920s, IN A DRUGSTORE IN THE WOLLASTON SECTION OF QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, THE YOUNG OWNER STARTED MAKING SOME REALLY RICH ICE CREAM -- 22% BUTTERFAT.

HIS NAME WAS HOWARD JOHNSON, AND HE EVENTUALLY BUILT HIS ORANGE-ROOFED EMPIRE ON THE INITIAL SUCCESS OF THAT ICE CREAM.

HIS PLACES BECAME FAMOUS FOR 28 FLAVORS -- "ALL THE FLAVORS IN THE WORLD," HE ONCE SAID.

IN THE LATE 1970s, TWO GUYS STARTED MAKING SOME REALLY RICH ICE CREAM IN AN OLD GAS STATION IN BURLINGTON, VERMONT.

THEIR NAMES WERE BEN COHEN AND JERRY GREENFIELD.

BEN & JERRY.

THAT'S BEN.

HE AND JERRY HAVE A BIG BUSINESS NOW -- SELLING OVER A $100 MILLION WORTH OF THEIR STUFF EVERY YEAR.

BUT THEY SEEM DETERMINED TO MAINTAIN SOME OF THAT SMALL-BUSINESS CHARM -- LIKE EVERYONE WHO WORKS FOR THEM GETS THREE PINTS OF ICE CREAM EVERY DAY.

BEN COHEN'S OFFICE IS RIGHT NEXT DOOR TO JERRY GREENFIELD'S.

THEY STILL WORK SIDE BY SIDE.

BUT THEY'VE LOCATED THEIR HEADQUARTERS -- AND THEIR ICE CREAM PLANT -- IN THE SMALL TOWN OF WATERBURY, VERMONT.

AT THE PLANT, THERE ARE LOTS OF THINGS TO SEE AND DO, AND A PLACE TO TASTE THE PRODUCTS.

IT'S BECOME THE NUMBER-ONE TOURIST ATTRACTION IN THE STATE.

THERE'S EVEN A FACTORY TOUR.

YOU CAN HEAD ALL THE WAY DOWN.

Narrator: THE ICE CREAM IS MADE INSIDE PIPES AND MACHINES, BUT THEY'VE GOT BIG SIGNS TO TELL YOU WHAT'S HAPPENING WHERE.

THE LARGE NUMBER ON THE BACK WALL IS THE NUMBER OF POUNDS OF CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH THEY'VE USED TO MAKE THEIR MOST POPULAR FLAVOR.

YOU CAN WATCH CONTAINERS COMING THROUGH THE ASSEMBLY LINE.

AND SOME VERY FRESH PINTS ARE HAULED UP IN A BUCKET SO EVERYONE ON THE TOUR GETS A TASTE.

BEN & JERRY MAKE "SUPER PREMIUM" ICE CREAM, WITH HIGH BUTTERFAT AND NOT A LOT OF AIR.

THEY'VE HAD AN IMPACT ON ICE CREAM.

Man: I THINK IN TERMS OF THE PRODUCT ITSELF, WE CONTRIBUTED BIG CHUNKS OF COOKIES AND CANDIES.

WE INVENTED CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH, WHICH RAPIDLY BECAME, YOU KNOW, KIND OF A STANDARD FLAVOR IN THE ICE CREAM INDUSTRY.

EVERYBODY MAKES CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH NOW.

AND YOU KNOW "CHERRY GARCIA."

PEOPLE DON'T CALL IT "CHERRY GARCIA" BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, YOU CAN'T.

BUT THAT SAME IDEA -- DARK, SWEET CHERRIES AND CHOCOLATE FLAKES.

Narrator: WELL, ALONG WITH THE FUN FLAVORS AND BIG CHUNKS, BEN & JERRY ALSO TAKE 7.5% OF THEIR PROFITS EACH YEAR AND HELP VARIOUS SOCIAL CAUSES.

ONE OF THE WAYS THEY DO THIS IS A PROJECT CALLED "PARTNERSHOPS" THAT CONNECTS ICE CREAM AND NON-PROFIT GROUPS.

IN SAN FRANCISCO, ON CHESTNUT STREET, THERE'S A BEN & JERRY'S FRANCHISE RUN BY A NON-PROFIT CALLED "LARKIN BUSINESS VENTURES."

SHARON WERTZL IS ITS PRESIDENT.

Wertzl: LARKIN BUSINESS VENTURES IS A COMMUNITY-BASED ORGANIZATION THAT IS IN BUSINESS TO PROVIDE OPPORTUNITIES TO YOUNG PEOPLE.

BEN & JERRY'S ALWAYS TALKS ABOUT BUSINESS SERVING A SOCIAL PURPOSE, AND WE HAD A SOCIAL PURPOSE, AND THEY HAD A BUSINESS, AND IT WAS A REALLY GOOD MATCH.

Narrator: THEY HIRE KIDS TO WORK HERE IN WHAT'S CALLED A "SCOOP SHOP."

Wertzl: WE EXPECT A LOT FROM THEM, AND WE HAVE PRETTY HIGH STANDARDS.

AND I THINK THEY GET A LOT OUT OF IT.

THEY CERTAINLY SEEM TO BE DOING REALLY WELL.

WE ALSO OPERATE A BEN & JERRY'S ICE CREAM CONCESSION AT CANDLESTICK PARK, AT THE BALLPARK HERE IN SAN FRANCISCO.

Narrator: THAT'S WHERE TONY VILLAREAL WORKS.

HE'S AN ICE CREAM GUY AT THE BALLPARK.

ALL RIGHT.

LET'S GO.

Villareal: WHEN YOU'RE HOT, YOU WANT SOMETHING THAT JUST GIVES YOU THAT ULTIMATE CHILL IN YOUR BODY, YOU KNOW?

AND ICE CREAM DOES IT.

GET YOUR ICE CREAM!

ICE CREAM!

GET YOUR ICE CREAM!

BEN & JERRY'S ICE CREAM!

I WAS DOING SOME BAD STUFF FOR A WHILE, BUT THEN, YOU KNOW, THIS GUY I MET, HE GOT ME OUT OF IT.

AND I STARTED DOING GOOD.

STARTED TRYING TO DO BETTER IN SCHOOL.

WANTED TO GET A JOB BEFORE I TURNED, YOU KNOW, 18.

I'M 16, GONNA BE 17.

SO I WAS LIKE, "YEAH, BABE, YOU GOTTA JOB?"

THEY SAID, "YEAH.

PAYS FIVE BUCKS AN HOUR.

WORKING AT CANDLESTICK."

I SAID, "CANDLESTICK!

WHAT?

WHAT?

CANDLESTICK?"

THAT'S ALL I HAD TO HEAR, MAN.

CANDLESTICK, YEAH, I'LL WORK HERE FOR FREE.

YOU KNOW, IT'S JUST WATCHING THE GAME.

YOU GET TO SIT HERE AND WATCH BASEBALL, FOOTBALL -- WHATEVER GAMES THEY HAVE.

SO I WAS LIKE, "YEAH."

AND THEY SAID, "BEN & JERRY'S ICE CREAM."

I WAS LIKE, "OH, YEAH.

I CAN SELL ICE CREAM."

THAT'S THE EASIEST THING TO SELL.

COMPARED TO ANYTHING ELSE.

COTTON CANDY.

NO ONE WANTS TO BUY COTTON CANDY ON A HOT DAY.

Narrator: NO, WE ALL SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM.

Cohen: IF WE CAN FIND A WAY OF SELLING ICE CREAM THAT HELPS TO GIVE JOB EXPERIENCE TO KIDS THAT ARE HAVING A DIFFICULT TIME OF IT, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

IT'S A SOCIAL PROGRAM THAT DOESN'T COST ANY MONEY.

IT MAKES MONEY.

SO, YOU KNOW, IT'S LIMITLESS.

Narrator: WELL, LET'S SAY BEN COHEN CAN'T GET TO A BEN & JERRY'S.

WHERE ELSE MIGHT HE GO FOR ICE CREAM?

HERRELL'S.

I LOVE HERRELL'S ICE CREAM IN MASSACHUSETTS.

AND THE OTHER ICE CREAM I REALLY LIKE IS TOSCANINI'S, ALSO IN BOSTON.

BOSTON'S A GREAT PLACE FOR ICE CREAM.

ANOTHER GREAT ICE CREAM IS ROBIN ROSE'S.

THAT'S WHO OWNS IT -- ROBIN ROSE.

AND ALSO SOME INCREDIBLY EXCELLENT ICE CREAMS.

GREAT FLAVORS.

Narrator: ROBIN ROSE ICE CREAM IS IN VENICE, CALIFORNIA, ON ROSE AVENUE.

SOME OF ITS AMAZING FLAVORS ARE UP IN LIGHTS.

Woman: THEY'RE STARS.

AND SOME OF THE FLAVORS WE DON'T MAKE ANYMORE, BUT THE NEON IS SO BEAUTIFUL WE HAVEN'T CHANGED IT.

ALL YOU GET WHEN YOU COME TO A PLACE THAT'S MANUFACTURING IN THE BACK, SELLING IN THE FRONT, IS YOU GET ICE CREAM WITHOUT EXCUSES.

THIS IS WHAT IT'S SUPPOSED TO TASTE LIKE IF EVERYTHING IS DONE RIGHT.

Narrator: ROBIN ROSE HAS SOLD CHOCOLATES AND ICE CREAM HERE SINCE 1981.

HER RASPBERRY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE FLAVOR IS SOMETHING SHE'S ALWAYS DONE RIGHT.

THE FLAVOR -- THE RASPBERRY AND THE CHOCOLATE AND THE TRUFFLE -- UNBELIEVABLE!

Rose: THAT'S HOW IT ALL STARTED.

WHERE I TOOK THE GROUND TRUFFLE CHIPS, THREW THEM INTO THE ICE CREAM.

WE OPENED TO THE PUBLIC, AND WITHIN A FEW MONTHS, WE WERE WRITTEN UP IN MONEY MAGAZINE AS THE BEST ICE CREAM IN LOS ANGELES.

Narrator: ONE NICE SURPRISE IS THAT ROBIN ROSE ON ROSE AVENUE MAKES ROSE PETAL ICE CREAM.

Rose: WE GET OUR CRYSTALLIZED ROSE PETALS FROM SWITZERLAND.

WE LET SOME ROSE PETALS SOAK, AND SOME ARE ADDED AT THE LAST MINUTE SO THEY KEEP THEIR CRYSTALLINE CHARACTERISTIC.

AND IT'S JUST ONE OF THOSE THINGS THAT A SMALL COMPANY CAN DO.

ROSE PETAL WOULD NEVER MAKE IT TO THE PINT-SIZE, MASS-MARKET DISTRIBUTION.

Narrator: ROBIN THINKS WE ALL LIKE ICE CREAM BECAUSE OF THE BUTTERFAT.

Rose: OUR WHOLE SENSORY BEING -- WE'RE REALLY RESPONDING TO THOSE ROUND MOLECULES.

THE MOUTH FEEL OF ICE CREAM IS INCREDIBLY SENSUOUS.

I JUST THINK THAT OUR NEUROTRANSMITTERS MUST GO SPARKING OFF SAYING, "THIS IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS.

THIS IS IT."

Narrator: WOW!

THEY DO SOMETHING ELSE HERE WITH ICE CREAM.

Rose: HA!

TRAFFIC SCHOOL FOR CHOCOHOLICS.

I GOT A TICKET.

SO I WENT TO A TRAFFIC SCHOOL, AND I LEARNED NOTHING.

SO I CAME HOME, AND I SAID, "THAT WAS JUST A HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE.

"WE'RE GOING TO START A TRAFFIC SCHOOL.

"IT'S GOING TO BE CALLED "'TRAFFIC SCHOOL FOR CHOCOHOLICS.'

"WE'LL GIVE THEM ICE CREAM AND CHOCOLATE.

"WE'LL MAKE THEM HAPPY.

IT'S A GOOD IDEA."

OKAY, YOU'RE HERE IN TRAFFIC SCHOOL FOR THIS SECOND PART.

THE GOOD IDEA INCLUDED ROBIN'S HUSBAND, ROY, WHO RUNS THESE CLASSES.

YOU SEE, IN CALIFORNIA, WHEN YOU GET A TICKET, YOU CAN GO TO TRAFFIC SCHOOL TO GET A MINOR OFFENSE WIPED OFF YOUR RECORD.

THESE TRAFFIC SCHOOLS ARE PRIVATELY RUN, AND LOTS OF THEM HAVE GIMMICKS IN THE SPOONFUL-OF-SUGAR-HELPS- THE-MEDICINE-GO-DOWN TRADITION.

THE CHOCOHOLICS MEET IN THE BACK ROOM WHERE ROBIN ROSE MAKES THE ICE CREAM.

NONE OF THESE STUDENTS HAS DONE ANYTHING REALLY BAD.

Man: REASON FOR BEING HERE WAS GOING TOO FAST ON PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY.

I MISSED A STOP SIGN.

WE'RE BOTH HERE FOR THE SAME THING ACTUALLY -- ILLEGAL LEFT TURNS.

THERE WAS EVEN A HUSBAND-AND-WIFE TEAM.

JUST A COINCIDENCE.

WITHIN FIVE DAYS OF EACH OTHER.

DIFFERENT INTERSECTIONS.

WE BOTH WENT DOWN FOR THE SAME OFFENSE.

THERE ARE ALWAYS SUBLIME ROBIN ROSE CHOCOLATES ON THE TABLES, AND AFTER ABOUT TWO HOURS, ROY GOES OVER TO THE FREEZER AND HELPS MAKE THE SECOND HALF OF THE EVENING GO FASTER.

WHO WANTS SOMETHING?

Woman: WHITE CHOCOLATE.

Roy: WHITE CHOCOLATE.

ANY ONE OF THOSE AND COFFEE.

Roy: VERY RICH AND VERY "PERFUMEY."

Man: YOU KNOW, I MEAN, YOU GET HALFWAY THROUGH YOUR EVENING, AND YOU GET INSTANTLY GRATIFIED BY HAVING, YOU KNOW, ICE CREAM.

AND THAT'S HARD TO BEAT.

Woman: I WENT TO TRAFFIC SCHOOL ONCE BEFORE, AND IT WAS REALLY TERRIBLE.

IT WAS ONE OF THE ONES THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE A COMIC SCHOOL, BUT IT WAS EXTREMELY UNFUNNY.

I LOOK AT IT THIS WAY -- THE OFFICER WHO WROTE ME THE TICKET IS OUTSIDE SITTING IN THE COLD ON HIS MOTORCYCLE.

I'M IN HERE WITH ICE CREAM AND COFFEE.

LAST NIGHT I HAD THE BITTERSWEET AND PRALINES AND CREAM, WHICH IS A NICE COMBO, TOO.

Man: WHERE ELSE BUT VENICE TO HAVE AN ICE CREAM-ORIENTED TRAFFIC SCHOOL?

Narrator: YOU KNOW, THE TRUTH IS, JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING GOES BETTER WITH ICE CREAM.

ROAD TRIPS HAVE ALWAYS SEEMED SHORTER IF YOU STOPPED FOR A CONE.

AND YOU KNOW, SOME ROADSIDE ICE CREAM PLACES ARE IRRESISTIBLE.

IN PANAMA CITY, FLORIDA, THERE'S A PLACE CALLED "DAIRY DOME."

Man: IT USED TO BE CALLED "BENTLEY'S" BEFORE.

I CHANGED IT TO "DAIRY DOME" BECAUSE I FELT LIKE "BENTLEY'S" SOUNDED LIKE A PAIR OF SHOES.

HI, WELCOME TO DAIRY DOME.

CAN I TAKE YOUR ORDER, PLEASE?

OKAY.

I WANT TWO LARGE CHOCOLATE CONES, PLEASE.

OKAY.

THANK YOU.

DRIVE THROUGH THE WINDOW.

EVERYBODY LIKES ICE CREAM, RIGHT?

YOU NEVER GET TOO OLD TO, NOT TO ENJOY AN ICE CREAM.

AND I'M JUST A HAPPY-TYPE PERSON.

LIKE TO SEE HAPPY PEOPLE.

Narrator: THE MAN INSIDE THE CONE IS JOHN WEGLINSKI.

HE SELLS SOFT SERVE, AS WELL AS SCOOPED ICE CREAM AND SHERBETS.

Man: THIS IS RAINBOW SHERBET.

THREE DIP.

THE MAXIMUM DIP THAT YOU CAN PUT ON THE CONE.

AND THEY'RE GOOD.

Narrator: IT'S SIMPLE -- A WACKY BUILDING ATTRACTS BUSINESS.

Weglinski: IT IS AN ATTRACTION.

I DO SEE A LOT OF OUT-OF-STATE TAGS COME THROUGH HERE, AND QUITE A FEW CAMERAS EVERY NOW AND THEN.

WELL, IT'S CUTE, BUT THE ICE CREAM'S REALLY GOOD.

Weglinski: I'D SAY 90% OF THE BUSINESS IS A DRIVE-THRU.

THERE'S A SPEAKER AND A MENUBOARD BEHIND.

THEY PLACE THEIR ORDER.

I FILL THE ORDER.

THEY DRIVE THROUGH THE WINDOWS.

I PROVIDE THE ORDER, COLLECT THE CASH FOR IT.

FEEL LIKE CLINT EASTWOOD TODAY.

SMILE AND DRIVE OFF.

Narrator: LITTLE KIDS LOVE THIS PLACE.

Weglinski: IT ATTRACTS THEM.

WHEN THEY COME IN, THEY USUALLY ASK FOR ONE THE SIZE OF THIS BUILDING WHEN THEY WANT A CONE.

I DON'T PAY FOR ADVERTISEMENT.

I FIGURE WORD-OF-MOUTH IS THE BEST.

NOW, I GIVE A GOOD PRODUCT, A GOOD QUANTITY FOR A FAIR PRICE, AND THOSE PEOPLE COME BACK, AND THEY BRING THEIR FRIENDS.

MMM.

MMM.

BOY IS THAT GOOD!

PEOPLE DO DEVELOP ICE CREAM HABITS.

WHEN YOU FIND GOOD STUFF, YOU GO BACK.

IN THE SHORE TOWN OF STONE HARBOR, NEW JERSEY, THERE'S A PLACE CALLED "SPRINGER'S."

Woman: SPRINGER'S IS THE BEST ICE CREAM.

THEY HAVE THE MOST CREAMIEST ICE CREAM.

IT'S LIKE A TRADITION.

WE COME HERE EVERY YEAR TO STONE HARBOR, AND... IT'S A NICE END TO THE EVENING.

AND THEN WE'LL WALK BACK.

AND THE SUN WILL GO DOWN, AND THE BEACH IS THERE.

AND IT'S JUST A NICE NIGHT OUT.

IT'S VERY GOOD HOMEMADE ICE CREAM, ESPECIALLY SPRINGER CHIP.

IS THERE SOMETHING SPECIAL ABOUT IT?

OR IS IT SOMETHING PSYCHOLOGICAL?

NO, BOTH.

NEIL AND BARBARA HUMPHRIES HAVE OWNED THIS PLACE SINCE 1975.

THEY SAY THE HOMEMADE ICE CREAM HERE HAS ATTRACTED PEOPLE SINCE THE 1920s -- OFTEN, A LOT OF PEOPLE.

A LONG LINE FORMS EVERY SUMMER EVENING.

Woman: IT'S FIVE, SIX DEEP IN THERE.

AND THAT'S PART OF THE CHARM, TOO -- WAITING IN LINE.

IT IS?

IT NEVER WAS FOR ME.

ONCE YOU'RE INSIDE, IT'S A LITTLE BIT FRANTIC.

Woman: I THINK THE CUSTOMERS EXPECT A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF THAT.

THEY'D BE VERY DISAPPOINTED IF EVERYTHING WAS VERY STERILE, AND YOU JUST WALKED IN ONE LINE AND WENT OUT, AND THERE WOULD BE NO CHAOS.

THEY ENJOY SEEING ALL THE ACTIVITY.

AS A MATTER OF FACT, THEY GET SO INVOLVED LOOKING AT WHAT'S GOING ON, THEY LET THEIR NUMBER GO BY BECAUSE THEY'RE VERY INVOLVED IN WATCHING THE ACTIVITY BEHIND HERE.

Narrator: EVEN SO, A LOT OF PEOPLE NOTICE THAT "POTPOURRI" IS HALF-PRICE.

Man: "POTPOURRI" IS A MIXTURE OF ALL DIFFERENT FLAVORS, DIFFERENT LAYERS OF DIFFERENT FLAVORS.

IT'S LIKE A POT LUCK, AND YOU JUST TAKE YOUR CHANCES.

Narrator: IAN TONER MAKES MOST OF THE ICE CREAM HERE.

Toner: THESE LAST BITS OF ICE CREAM ARE WHAT WE'RE GOING TO BE PUTTING INTO OUR POTPOURRI.

IT'S NOT ENOUGH TO MAKE A FULL CAN OF ICE CREAM, SO WE'LL JUST MIX IT IN WITH SOME OTHER FLAVORS.

SOMETIMES IT'S SOME PRETTY BAD COMBINATIONS.

MAYBE EGGNOG AND MINT MIXED TOGETHER, WHICH I DON'T THINK IS A GOOD COMBINATION.

Narrator: IAN AND HIS ASSISTANT, JAY DARING, MAKE AROUND 50 REGULAR FLAVORS.

Daring: THESE ARE THE ALMONDS THAT WE GOT.

WE USE THESE FOR SEVERAL DIFFERENT FLAVORS, BUT WE WERE KIND OF HOPING WE WOULDN'T GET THEM IN TODAY SO WE COULD GO TO THE BEACH A LITTLE BIT EARLIER.

YEAH, BUT JAY AND IAN BOTH KNOW THESE ARE PRETTY DELICIOUS SUMMER JOBS.

Toner: SOMETIMES I DO TASTE THIS ICE CREAM, BUT IT'S NOT TO SEE IF IT'S READY, OR IF EVERYTHING'S MIXED TOGETHER.

IT'S JUST TO ENJOY ICE CREAM, BECAUSE I DO ENJOY EATING ICE CREAM.

AND I LIKE TO SAMPLE MY WORK.

I THINK THIS ICE CREAM IS READY TO GO.

Narrator: IAN MAKES ICE CREAM ON A SMALL SCALE -- IT'S SOLD ONLY RIGHT HERE AT SPRINGER'S.

AT AN ICE CREAM FACTORY IN SOUTHBURY, CONNECTICUT, THEY MAKE ICE CREAM ON A LARGER SCALE, USING COMPUTER CONTROLS AND MONITORS.

THE PROCESS IS BASICALLY THE SAME, JUST BIGGER, MORE MACHINES.

HERE TODAY, THEY'RE MAKING MATTUS' LOW-FAT ICE CREAM.

LOW-FAT PRODUCTS ARE NOW THE FASTEST-GROWING SEGMENT OF THE BUSINESS.

Woman: RIGHT NOW, YOU CAN BUY MATTUS' ICE CREAM IN ABOUT 14 STATES.

Narrator: THE MATTUS' FORMULA WAS DEVELOPED BY DORIS MATTUS-HURLEY AND HER HUSBAND, KEVIN HURLEY.

THEY WORKED ON IT FOR YEARS -- PRIMARILY AT THE ICE CREAM LABS AT PENN STATE.

Mattus-Hurley: I HATE SAYING "LOW-FAT."

I HAVE TO SAY "LOW-FAT," AND IT IS LOW-FAT.

BUT I WISH I COULD JUST SAY "MATTUS' ICE CREAM" BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT IT IS.

IT'S ICE CREAM.

IT'S JUST A DIFFERENT WAY OF MAKING IT THAN THEY'VE MADE IT OVER THE PAST 70 OR 80 YEARS.

Narrator: THEIR RECIPE, HOWEVER, IS A SECRET.

Mattus-Hurley: A HUGE SECRET.

DON'T ASK ME THE FORMULA.

Narrator: WHEN SHE'S HERE AT THE FACTORY, DORIS OCCASIONALLY STABS A PINT OF PRODUCT.

Mattus-Hurley: OH, THAT'S A THERMOMETER.

EVERY TIME YOU MAKE ICE CREAM, YOU'RE FREEZING ICE CRYSTALS.

AND IF IT'S FROZEN AT A DIFFERENT TEMPERATURE, YOU DON'T GET THE SAME SMOOTHNESS.

THE MAIN THING THAT I'M LOOKING FOR IS THAT THE ICE CREAM IS MADE CONSISTENTLY THE SAME WAY EVERY TIME.

Narrator: THE LOGO OF MATTUS' LOW-FAT ICE CREAM SAYS "A FAMILY TRADITION."

Mattus-Hurley: MY FAMILY'S BEEN IN THE ICE CREAM BUSINESS FOR 70 YEARS.

MY GRANDMA STARTED MAKING LEMON ICES IN THE BRONX.

AND, AT 9 YEARS OLD, MY DAD, REUBEN MATTUS, WAS DELIVERING LEMON ICES ALL OVER THE BRONX IN A HORSE AND BUGGY.

REUBEN MATTUS WAS KNOWN AS "THE EMPEROR OF ICE CREAM," AND HE WAS A VERY SPECIAL MAN.

HE'S THE MAN THAT CREATED HAAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM.

I DO REMEMBER WHEN MY DAD FIRST DECIDED TO MAKE HAAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM, IT WAS IN 1959, AND I WAS A MERE CHILD.

Narrator: HAAGEN-DAZS IS AN ALL-AMERICAN, SUPER-PREMIUM ICE CREAM WITH A FOREIGN-SOUNDING NAME THAT REALLY MEANS NOTHING.

Mattus-Hurley: HE ACTUALLY MADE THE NAME UP.

HE SAT THERE, AND HE JUST SAID NAMES UNTIL "HAAGEN-DAZS" CAME OUT OF HIS MOUTH.

AND HE SAID, "THAT'S IT.

I'M GOING TO CALL IT 'HAAGEN-DAZS.'"

AND HE PUT THE TWO UMLAUTS ON IT, AND HE SAID THAT LOOKS GREAT.

AND HE DEVELOPED THE FIRST DOMESTIC IMPORT.

WHEN I CREATED HAAGEN-DAZS IN 1959, PEOPLE WERE NOT CONCERNED ABOUT HIGH FAT AND HIGH CHOLESTEROL.

BUT TODAY PEOPLE ARE CONCERNED ABOUT THEIR HEALTH.

Mattus-Hurley: RIGHT BEFORE HE PASSED AWAY, I THINK, IN 1994, TIME MAGAZINE PICKED MATTUS' LOW-FAT ICE CREAM AS ONE OF THE 10 BEST PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR.

AND TO HIM, THAT WAS LIKE WINNING AN ACADEMY AWARD.

IT'S AMAZING.

IT'S A VERY HAPPY BUSINESS TO BE IN.

I'M GLAD MY DAD WASN'T A DENTIST.

Narrator: YOU KNOW, PEOPLE GET USED TO EATING ICE CREAM CERTAIN WAYS.

YOU DON'T EVEN HAVE A CONE.

OH, THAT'S WHAT I'M MISSING.

I'M MISSING AN ICE CREAM CONE.

NORMALLY, I EAT ICE CREAM ONLY IN CONES.

Narrator: NO ONE KNOWS FOR SURE WHO MADE THE VERY FIRST CONE, ALTHOUGH IT WAS PROBABLY AROUND 1900.

THE VERY FIRST CONE THAT WAS MADE LOOKED LIKE THIS, WHICH IS A WAFFLE CONE, BUT IT WAS MUCH SMALLER.

IT WAS SHAPED, OR IT WAS SIZED MORE LIKE THIS, WHICH WE NOW CALL A SUGAR CONE.

Narrator: JOE GEORGE IS PRESIDENT OF THE JOY CONE COMPANY, WHICH HIS FATHER, A LEBANESE IMMIGRANT, FOUNDED IN 1918, IN HERMITAGE, PENNSYLVANIA.

George: THIS PLANT IS VERY CLEARLY THE LARGEST SINGLE CONE BAKERY IN THE COUNTRY.

WE PROBABLY WILL PRODUCE A BILLION CONE UNITS THIS YEAR.

CONES ARE THE IDEAL CONTAINER.

THINK ABOUT IT.

THERE ARE NO DISHES TO WASH, NOTHING TO DISPOSE OF.

IT IS A PERFECT EDIBLE CONTAINER.

Narrator: WHEN SUGAR CONES COME OUT OF THE OVENS, THEY'RE STILL HOT AND SOMEWHAT SOFT.

George: THE PURPOSE OF THOSE CONVEYORS IS, FIRST OF ALL, TO GET THEM OVER TO THE PACKING STATION.

BUT SECONDLY, WE DON'T WANT THEM TO GET OVER THERE TOO QUICKLY.

WE WANT THEM TO SLOWLY COOL AND DRY DOWN.

Narrator: A RANDOM SAMPLING IS CHECKED FOR STRENGTH.

DON'T WANT THOSE CONES CRACKING UNDER THE PRESSURE OF ICE CREAM.

AT JOY, THEY ALSO MAKE "CAKE" CONES OR "MOLDED" CONES.

George: THE FIRST CONES THAT MY DAD STARTED TO MAKE WERE MOLDED CONES, BUT THEY WERE POINTED IN SHAPE, AND THEY HADN'T YET FIGURED OUT HOW TO PUT IN WHAT WE CALL "TEETH," IN THE MOUTH OF THE CONE.

THE TEETH ARE THERE TO GIVE THE CONE STRENGTH, FIRST OF ALL, AND SECONDLY, IF YOU'RE DEALING WITH HARD ICE CREAM OR EVEN WITH SOFT ICE CREAM, TO MAKE THE PORTION SIT UP ON TOP.

Narrator: CAKE CONES ARE ALSO MADE FROM BATTER IN MOLDS THAT BAKE IN A CIRCULAR OVEN FOR ABOUT 90 SECONDS.

HERE AT JOY, THEY MAKE POINTED, AS WELL AS FLAT-BOTTOMED CAKE CONES.

IT'S OXYMORONIC TO SAY "FLAT-BOTTOM CONE" BECAUSE "CONE," BY DEFINITION, IS POINTED IN SHAPE.

IT WAS NOT UNTIL AFTER WORLD WAR II THAT THE FLAT-BOTTOMED CONE, THE "CUP CONE," BEGAN TO BE INTRODUCED.

Narrator: YOU MIGHT SAY JOE IS A BIT OF A CONNOISSEUR.

George: I CAN TELL BY TASTING A CONE IF WE'RE MAKING A GOOD CONE THAT DAY OR NOT.

A GOOD CONE HAS A VERY MILD, PLEASANT, CEREAL TASTE.

IT'S REMINISCENT OF CHEERIOS.

CONES ARE AT THEIR ABSOLUTE BEST FROM BIRTH TO ABOUT TWO MONTHS.

Narrator: MOST CONES ARE LOW-CALORIE AND FAT-FREE.

JOE SAYS THEY'RE A GREAT TREAT ALL BY THEMSELVES, BUT HE PREFERS THEM FILLED.

George: I LIKE TO TAKE MORE THAN ONE CONE AND JUST FILL IT UP TO THE TOP SO THAT I CAN HAVE A LITTLE MORE CONE WITH THE ICE CREAM, BUT I THINK I'M AN EXCEPTION IN THAT RESPECT.

BUT I'M NOT AN EXCEPTION IN TERMS OF LIKING ICE CREAM.

HOW CAN YOU NOT LIKE ICE CREAM?

Narrator: WELL, ICE CREAM ISN'T ALWAYS IN A CONE.

SOMETIMES IT'S ON A STICK.

THERE ARE LOTS OF WHAT ARE CALLED "ICE CREAM NOVELTIES," INCLUDING ESKIMO PIES.

Man: IF YOU LOOK BACK TO 1921, WE WERE THE COMPANY THAT REALLY INVENTED THE FROZEN NOVELTY CATEGORY.

Narrator: ESKIMO PIE'S HEADQUARTERS ARE IN RICHMOND, VIRGINIA.

GIFF BREED IS GENERAL MANAGER FOR MARKETING AND PLANNING.

HE KNOWS HOW THESE NOVELTIES GOT THEIR START.

Breed: A SCHOOLTEACHER BY THE NAME OF CHRIS NELSON OPENED UP AN ICE CREAM STORE.

AND ONE DAY A CHILD CAME IN AND COULDN'T DECIDE BETWEEN AN ICE CREAM OR A CANDY BAR, AND CHRIS SAID, "THIS IS GOING TO BE A BIG IDEA."

SO HE TRIED TO INVENT A CHOCOLATE-COVERED ICE CREAM BAR, BUT NOTHING WOULD REALLY WORK FOR HIM.

HE RUNS INTO A FRIEND OF HIS, RUSSELL STOVER, WHO SAYS, "CHRIS, YOU GOT TO ADD SOME OIL IN THERE "TO MAKE IT STICK TO THE ICE CREAM BAR," AND IT WORKED.

Narrator: IT WAS A PHENOMENAL SUCCESS, AND QUICKLY BECAME AN AMERICAN ICON.

ESKIMO PIE!

[ GUITAR PLAYS ] Narrator: OVER THE YEARS, THEIR ADVERTISING HAS CHANGED WITH THE TIMES.

[ GUITAR PLAYS ] Breed: WE LICENSE THE PRODUCTS, SO THERE ARE A NUMBER OF DAIRIES AROUND THE COUNTRY WHO ACTUALLY MAKE THE ESKIMO PIE PRODUCTS FOR US.

AND SOME OF THEM PUT STICKS IN THEM, AND SOME OF THEM DON'T.

NOW, IT'S DOMINATED PRIMARILY BY THE PRODUCT WITH STICKS IN IT.

Narrator: ESKIMO PIES -- LIKE KLONDIKES AND GOOD HUMOR BARS AND ASSORTED OTHER ICE CREAM NOVELTIES -- GET ALL WRAPPED UP IN CHILDHOOD MEMORIES ALONG WITH THE ALUMINUM FOIL.

Breed: GROWING UP, I CAN REMEMBER IF I ALWAYS BEHAVED, DID WHAT MY MOM TOLD ME, WE'D GET AN ESKIMO PIE AS A REWARD.

BACK THEN, THOUGH, IT WASN'T ON A STICK, SO IT TENDED TO BE A LITTLE MESSY.

Narrator: WITH ICE CREAM IDEAS, MESSY IS OKAY, BUT NEW AND UNUSUAL ARE BEST.

IN NORTH HUNTINGDON, PA, AT KERBER'S DAIRY STORE, THEY MAKE SOME WILD AND ZANY NEWFANGLED FLAVORS.

THE NEW ONE IS "DINOSAUR CRUNCH."

IT HAS MALT BALLS AND CHOCOLATE.

IT'S BRIGHT BLUE.

MAKES YOUR TEETH AND LIPS ALL BLUE.

Narrator: TOMMY KERBER AND HIS DAD, TOM, MAKE ALL THE ICE CREAM HERE IN A SMALL PLANT BEHIND THE SHOP.

Tom: ON A NORMAL DAY, WE'LL ONLY MAKE FOUR FLAVORS.

WE'RE DOING VANILLA, WE'RE DOING FRENCH VANILLA, AND A NEW FLAVOR WE HAVE -- MUDDY SNEAKERS.

Tommy: OKAY, THIS IS OUR MUDDY SNEAKERS CANDY HERE.

WE HAVE DARK CHOCOLATE CHOCOLATE CHIPS, REGULAR CHOCOLATE CHIPS, BIG PEANUT BUTTER BALLS, AND MINI-PEANUT CANDY.

WE'RE GOING TO MIX THAT IN WHITE CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM WITH A CARAMEL SAUCE.

VERY DEVASTATING FLAVOR.

Tom: THE BIGGEST SURPRISE IS THE FLAVORS YOU MAKE AND HOW PEOPLE ACCEPT THEM AND HOW THEY LOVE THEM.

AND THEY'RE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR A NEW FLAVOR.

Narrator: WELL, THE FIRST TASTE OF A NEW FLAVOR CAN BE A MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE, BUT SOME ICE CREAM EATERS ALSO ENJOY FINDING A NEW MACHINE EVERY NOW AND THEN.

AT HOPPIE'S ICE CREAM PARLOR IN THE SMALL TOWN OF OXFORD, NEW YORK, DAVID AND MARY EL EMERSON TAKE GREAT PRIDE IN THE OLD PARLOR PARAPHERNALIA THEY'VE COLLECTED FOR THIS NEW SHOP.

INSIDE, THEY'VE INSTALLED A 1930s-VINTAGE, STAINLESS STEEL BACK COUNTER FROM AN OLD DRUGSTORE.

THEY'VE FIXED UP MANY OF THE OLD CONTRAPTIONS, INCLUDING THE SODA WATER DISPENSER.

COLD SODA WATER.

THIS OLD STUFF IS NEAT, BUT A NEW MACHINE THEY'VE GOT, CALLED A "FLAVORBURST," THAT PUTS A FLAVORED OUTLINE OF COLOR ON THE SOFT SERVE, ATTRACTS THE MOST BUSINESS.

Man: IT'S BEEN A VERY BIG SUCCESS IN THE FIRST YEAR OF OUR OPERATION.

THE BLUE GOO, OR COTTON CANDY FLAVOR, IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST-SELLING FLAVOR GOING OUT THE DOOR.

Narrator: BEFORE YOU GO OUT THE DOOR, YOU MAY NOTICE THE PICKLES, IN CASE SOMEONE'S CRAVING THAT CLASSIC, EXPECTANT-MOTHER COMBINATION -- DILL PICKLES AND ICE CREAM.

Mary El: YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE PREGNANT TO DO THAT BECAUSE WE SELL A LOT OF PICKLES TO GENTLEMEN, TO KIDS.

THEY'VE GOT THE ICE CREAM IN ONE HAND AND THE PICKLE IN THE OTHER.

IT'S UNBELIEVABLE.

Narrator: NO, WHEN IT COMES TO UNUSUAL ICE CREAM FLAVORS, EVERYTHING IS BELIEVABLE.

IN SAN FRANCISCO, ON POLK STREET, THERE'S A SMALL ICE CREAM SHOP CALLED "PURE T."

ALL THE FLAVORS HERE ARE BASED ON VARIETIES OF TEA.

THIS IS "EARL GREY."

Narrator: DEBORAH REMEZ WAGNER IS ONE OF THE OWNERS.

Remez Wagner: FOR PEOPLE WHO EAT ICE CREAM, WE HAVE 12 FLAVORS THAT THEY'VE NEVER EATEN BEFORE.

AND WHAT WE'RE TRYING TO DO WITH THIS WHOLE CONCEPT IS RELIEVE TEA OF MANY OF ITS SERIOUS CONNOTATIONS, BECAUSE THERE'S NOTHING MORE FUN THAN ICE CREAM.

WE WANT PEOPLE TO TASTE IT AND TO SEE, BUT PEOPLE LOVE THE ICE CREAM.

Narrator: THEIR SECRET HERE IS THE TEA EXTRACTION PROCESS, WHICH THEY DEVELOPED.

DEBORAH MAKES AND PACKAGES THE SUBTLE AND UNUSUAL FLAVORS IN A ROOM BEHIND THE SHOP.

Remez Wagner: EVERYTHING IN PURE T IS LABOR-INTENSIVE.

OUR MOTTO HERE IS, "IF IT'S NOT LABOR-INTENSIVE, WHY DO IT?"

Narrator: PURE T IS A COOL PLACE WITH SPECIALTY FLAVORS, JUST THE KIND OF UNIQUE SHOP THAT ICE CREAM LOVERS LOVE TO FIND.

LET ME KNOW IF I CAN GET YOU ANYTHING ELSE, OKAY?

SOMETIMES ICE CREAM WILL TURN UP IN UNEXPECTED PLACES.

UP WHERE THE SURFERS GO, ON OAHU'S NORTH SHORE, IN HAWAII, AS YOU DRIVE THROUGH THE TOWN OF HALEIWA, YOU MAY NOTICE A LONG LINE AT MATSUMOTO'S GROCERY.

IT'S A VERY POPULAR PLACE TO STOP FOR THE COOL HAWAIIAN TREAT KNOWN AS "SHAVE ICE."

SHAVE ICE!

SHAVE ICE!

Woman: NUMBER ONE ON THE ISLAND.

THAT'S WHY WE ALL COME OUT HERE.

WE COME UP TO THE NORTH SHORE ABOUT ONCE A MONTH AND HAVE OUR SHAVE ICE.

WE'RE FAMOUS FOR OUR SHAVE ICE, WHICH WE'VE BEEN DOING FOR ABOUT 40 YEARS OR SO NOW.

Narrator: STANLEY MATSUMOTO USED TO SURF A LOT.

NOW HE RUNS THIS FAMILY BUSINESS OF MAKING WHAT ARE PROBABLY THE BEST SNOW CONES YOU'LL EVER EAT.

Matsumoto: MY DAD AND MY MOM, WHEN THEY FIRST STARTED, IT WAS MORE LIKE A GROCERY STORE, AND IT WAS LIKE 5 CENTS FOR A SMALL AND 10 CENTS FOR A LARGE.

Narrator: A LARGE NOW COSTS ABOUT $2.

YOU CAN GET OR MIX LOTS OF DIFFERENT FLAVORS.

Girl: LIME!

Second Girl: VANILLA!

LIME!

BLUE.

RAINBOW.

STRAWBERRY, VANILLA... MY FAVORITE'S LILIKOI.

ALL OF THEM.

IT'S PASSION FRUIT... BECAUSE IT'S TANGY.

THEN THE ICE CREAM IS CREAMY.

SO WITH THE TANGINESS AND THE CREAMINESS TOGETHER, IT'S GOOD.

Narrator: WHAT DOES SHE MEAN "THE ICE CREAM?"

WELL, HERE AT MATSUMOTO'S, YOU HAVE THE OPTION OF GETTING ICE CREAM UNDER THE BRIGHTLY FLAVORED ICE.

Man: OH, YES.

THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO EAT SHAVE ICE.

ICE CREAM ON THE BOTTOM.

YEAH, IT'S MUCH BETTER WITH ICE CREAM, RIGHT?

Woman: DEPENDING ON WHAT FLAVOR YOU GET, IT'S MELTING DOWN INTO THE ICE CREAM, SO WITH THE VANILLA ICE CREAM AND THE JUICE, IT JUST MAKES IT CREAMIER.

IT'S THE POT OF GOLD AT THE END OF THE RAINBOW.

IT'S DELICIOUS.

Matsumoto: WE JUST USE THE VANILLA ICE CREAM, BECAUSE IT JUST BLENDS IN WITH EVERY FLAVOR THAT WE USE.

Narrator: SO, YOU CAN GET ICE CREAM UNDER THE SHAVE ICE.

YOU CAN ALSO GET BEANS.

Matsumoto: IT'S RED BEANS.

WE CALL IT AZUKI IN JAPANESE.

WE KIND OF LIKE, WE BOIL IT IN WATER, AND ABOUT AN HOUR LATER, ONCE IT GETS SOFT, WE ADD SUGAR TO IT.

THAT'S OUR SPECIALTY, IS THE ICE CREAM AND BEANS.

IT'S A GOOD TREAT TOGETHER.

IT TASTES REALLY GOOD TOGETHER.

IT BLENDS IN TOGETHER.

Narrator: SO WHEN YOU ORDER HERE, YOU HAVE TO CHOOSE -- WITH OR WITHOUT ICE CREAM, AND THEN, WITH OR WITHOUT BEANS, AS WELL AS WHICH FLAVOR OR COMBINATION.

Matsumoto: WE HAVE ALL THESE DIFFERENT FLAVORS THAT PEOPLE JUST MIX IT UP SO MUCH NOW.

SO PEOPLE ASK ME, "WHAT IS THE BEST COMBINATION?"

AND I CAN'T EVEN TELL THEM ANYMORE BECAUSE PEOPLE JUST TRY ALL DIFFERENT WAYS.

IT'S GOOD.

Matsumoto: I TELL PEOPLE THERE'S A WAY TO EAT THE SHAVE ICE.

THEY DON'T USE A STRAW SOMETIMES, THEY DON'T REALLY KNOW.

AND IT'S JUST MELTING ALL OVER LIKE THAT, BUT YOU KNOW... [ SLURP ] HOW ABOUT THAT?

IT GETS KIND OF REALLY MUSHY DOWN BELOW.

IT LOOKS REAL GOOEY, YOU KNOW.

BUT PEOPLE SAY, "LOOK AT IT.

IT LOOKS AWFUL DOWN THERE," BUT WHEN YOU EAT IT, THEY SAY, "OH, IT TASTES GREAT."

Narrator: STANLEY'S FATHER, MAMORU MATSUMOTO, WHO STARTED ALL THIS, DIED IN 1994.

THERE'S THIS GREAT PICTURE OF HIM ON THE WALL.

Matsumoto: HIS ROLE WAS TO WATCH THE STORE.

I MEAN, THAT WAS HIS LOVE, WAS THE STORE, A LOT, YEAH.

Narrator: YOU CAN ALSO GET HIS PICTURE ON A T-SHIRT, MATSUMOTO'S OTHER SPECIALTY.

Woman: CAN I GET A MEDIUM BLACK, TOO?

MEDIUM BLACK, YEAH.

Narrator: WHEN YOU HAVE A FUN EXPERIENCE LIKE EATING A WHOLE MATSUMOTO SHAVE ICE WITH ICE CREAM AND BEANS, IT'S NICE TO GET A SOUVENIR, TOO.

SOUVENIRS AND ICE CREAM HAVE LONG BEEN A POPULAR COMBINATION.

AND THERE'S A NATIONAL ORGANIZATION OF PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COLLECT ALL KINDS OF OLD ICE CREAM SOUVENIRS AND PARAPHERNALIA.

THEY CALL THEMSELVES "ICE SCREAMERS," AND THEY HOLD AN ANNUAL CONVENTION, USUALLY IN THE PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COUNTRY.

Man: IN OUR SPARE TIME, WE COLLECT THINGS THAT RELATE TO ICE CREAM.

Woman: WHEREVER WE CAN FIND ANYTHING WITH ICE CREAM ON IT, WE'LL BUY IT.

Man: I STARTED PICKING UP SCOOPS AND SEEING THE DIFFERENT SPRINGS AND THE DIFFERENT MECHANISMS THAT THEY USE, AND I JUST KEPT PICKING THEM UP, AND 21 YEARS LATER, I'M STILL PICKING THEM UP.

I STARTED COLLECTING ICE CREAM SCOOPS, AND I JUST HAD THEM IN THE CORNER.

BUT WE'VE GONE ALL OVER THE WORLD COLLECTING IT, SO WE JUST BROUGHT SOME STUFF BACK FROM FRANCE.

Narrator: ED MARKS IS ONE OF THE FOUNDERS OF THE GROUP, AND HE SAYS THESE PEOPLE AREN'T ALL CRAZY.

IT'S JUST A HOBBY.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT THAN COLLECTING STAMPS.

Narrator: ROBIN WEIR IS FROM LONDON AND IS THE CO-AUTHOR OF A BOOK CALLED "ICES: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE."

Weir: I COME OVER HERE REGULARLY ON BUSINESS, AND I ALWAYS MAKE IT COINCIDE WITH THIS CONVENTION.

AND I THINK THIS IS THE NINTH YEAR I'VE COME.

THEY'RE A WONDERFUL GROUP OF PEOPLE.

Narrator: WAYNE SMITH FROM MARYLAND HAS ALSO WRITTEN WHAT YOU MIGHT CALL A DEFINITIVE GUIDE.

Smith: I'VE BEEN DOING RESEARCH FOR YEARS, AND I DECIDED TO PUT A BOOK OUT ON ICE CREAM DIPPERS BECAUSE THERE ARE A LOT OF COLLECTORS AND A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO REALLY WANT TO KNOW WHAT THEY HAVE.

IT'S AMAZING HOW MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF SCOOPS WERE MADE.

THIS IS AFTER WORLD WAR II, AND MOST OF THE INTERESTING SCOOPS WERE WELL BEFORE WORLD WAR II.

THIS IS ONE OF THE MORE INTERESTING.

IT MADE A CUBE-SHAPE.

Man: THIS IS A DOUBLE-WIPE JOB WITH TWO CAMS ON IT, WHICH IS QUITE RARE.

THIS IS AN ISALY'S SCOOP.

IT'S FROM WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.

THIS IS ONE OF THE ITEMS THAT THEY USED TO MAKE THE OLD SKYSCRAPER CONES.

AND FOR A DIME -- WHEN I USED TO BUY THEM -- IT WAS A TREAT AND A HALF.

PROBABLY EARLY 1940s.

THIS WAS A REAL UNUSUAL ONE.

IT'S AN ELECTRIC ONE.

PUMP A COUPLE SQUIRTS OF CHOCOLATE, WHICH WOULD SPRAY INTO THE INSIDE OF THE CONE, THEN TURN THE CONE OVER AND PUT A SCOOP OF YOUR FAVORITE ICE CREAM.

SO IT WAS A CHOCOLATE-LINED ICE CREAM CONE.

SINCE NO COLLECTOR HERE HAS EVER SEEN ONE, IT PROBABLY WAS A MISERABLE FAILURE, BUT... Man: AND THIS IS A NICE EXAMPLE OF A LARGE SIZE MOLD.

THIS WOULD HOLD FOUR PINTS OF ICE CREAM.

THIS IS AN EGYPTIAN OBELISK WITH ALL THE DETAIL, WITH THE HIEROGLYPHICS INSIDE.

ONE LIKE THIS THAT OPENS TOTALLY IS MUCH EASIER TO UNMOLD.

Man: YOU DROP THE ICE CREAM RIGHT THROUGH THE BOTTOM.

Second Man: THESE ARE DIXIE CUP LIDS.

THESE CAME AS COVERS ON ICE CREAM CUPS FOR FIVE CENTS.

ANYWAY, YOU PICK UP A LID LIKE THIS FROM THE PULL TAB, AND YOU SEE SOME ICE CREAM ADHERING TO THE SURFACE.

YOU WOULD LICK IT OFF.

THEN WE'D TAKE THE PARCHMENT PAPER OFF SLOWLY, AND THERE WOULD BE THE BRIGHT WAX-COATED PICTURE OF YOUR FAVORITE COWBOY OR SOMEBODY ELSE.

THAT'S STILL CHOCOLATE FLAVOR THERE.

GOOD GOD, YOU CAN STILL SMELL THE CHOCOLATE AFTER 45, 50 YEARS.

50 YEARS!

THAT WAS ICE CREAM!

THAT WAS GREAT ICE CREAM.

THEN THEY WOULD ALSO GIVE YOU A SPOON SO YOU COULD EAT THE ICE CREAM WITH, AND YOU WOULD SAVE THE LID, OKAY?

AND YOU'D THROW AWAY THE CUP.

THAT'S WHY I GOT ONE CUP AND 4,000 LIDS.

Narrator: OF COURSE, ALL THIS OLD STUFF HELPS PRESERVE BITS OF ICE CREAM'S HISTORY.

Weir: WE FOUND THAT ALMOST ALL THE HISTORY OF ICE CREAM THAT EVERYONE ALWAYS TROTS OUT ABOUT CATHERINE de MEDICI AND MARCO POLO AND CHARLES I IS ALL TOTAL NONSENSE.

THERE'S NO HISTORIC EVIDENCE FOR IT AT ALL.

I COULD SUM UP THE HISTORY OF ICE CREAM BY SAYING THAT IT'S SPECULATION, KIND OF HARDENED BY REPETITION IN THE MEDIA, UNTIL IT BECOMES ACCEPTED AS FACT.

Weir: BUT THE PRINCIPLE FOR MAKING ICE CREAM WAS FOUND OUT BY THE CHINESE, AND THE EARLIEST ICE CREAM APPEARED IN EUROPE WAS AROUND 1650, AROUND THAT SORT OF TIME.

WHEN YOU FIND EARLY REFERENCES IN THIS COUNTRY, THEY TALK ABOUT GEORGE WASHINGTON AND THOMAS JEFFERSON.

THEY WERE THE ONES THAT HELPED POPULARIZE ICE CREAM.

THIS IS A NEWSPAPER FROM PHILADELPHIA, 1810, AND WE HAVE AN ICE CREAM AD ON THE BOTTOM FROM A MAN WHO MADE ICE CREAM BACK THEN.

THIS IS FRENCH.

1870s LIMOGES CHINA.

Narrator: FOR CENTURIES, ICE CREAM WAS A TREAT FOR ONLY THE VERY RICH, THEN AN AMERICAN WOMAN NAMED NANCY JOHNSON INVENTED THE HAND-CRANKED ICE CREAM FREEZER IN 1843, AND, FOR THE FIRST TIME, MADE ICE CREAM A POSSIBILITY FOR EVERYONE.

WE HAVE HERE A SMALL PHOTO FROM 1867, PROBABLY ONE OF THE EARLIER-KNOWN PHOTOS OF PEOPLE MAKING ICE CREAM.

Weir: VERY LARGELY DUE TO PROHIBITION, ICE CREAM PARLORS BECAME VERY POPULAR 'CAUSE WHEN YOU COULDN'T GO DOWN THE ROAD AND GET A DRINK, YOU'D GO DOWN THE ROAD AND GET AN ICE CREAM.

Narrator: WELL, ONE EVENING, JUST FOR FUN, THE SCREAMERS GO DOWN THE ROAD AND TASTE SOME UNUSUAL HOMEMADE FLAVORS.

SO AS I SAY -- PLEASE ENJOY PRUNE DANISH ICE CREAM.

TASTES JUST LIKE PRUNES, AND IT HAS CRUST IN IT, FROM THE DANISH.

JUST LIKE CRUST.

BOY, I'M READY TO GO.

[ LAUGHTER ] THINK I JUST GOT ONE OF THE PITS.

Narrator: SEVERAL OF THE FLAVORS WERE CONCOCTED BY JOHN PANZA, WHO'S A SUPPLIER TO THE ICE CREAM INDUSTRY.

OUR SECOND FLAVOR THIS EVENING, FOR YOUR TASTING PLEASURE IS A SWEET POTATO ICE CREAM WITH A MARSHMALLOW WEAVE.

I DON'T THINK IT'LL SELL.

MARY EL?

Narrator: THE SCREAMERS TASTE SIX OR SEVEN UNEXPECTED FLAVORS IN ALL, AND REACTIONS VARY.

A VERY COMMERCIAL FLAVOR.

IT'S VERY GOOD.

THIS IS TRULY -- I'M GONNA USE A FRENCH WORD -- A MECCHIA.

OUT OF THIS WORLD.

MMM.

IT'S A LITTLE CHEWY.

IT'S SORT OF "SANDPAPER-Y."

ACTUALLY, IT'S NOT BAD.

IT'S GOOD.

NO.

IT KIND OF BITES YOU.

BITES YOU.

WHATEVER YOU DO, NEVER EAT BERNIE PRESSLER'S SORBET.

THAT'S ONE THING YOU CAN'T HAVE.

Man: THIS IS SERIOUS EATING HERE.

THESE ARE MONEY MAKERS.

NO QUESTION ABOUT IT.

THIS IS A REGULAR FLAVOR, NOT AN EXPERIMENT.

DICK WARREN IS THE OTHER ICE CREAM MAKER FOR THIS TASTE-TESTING SESSION.

Warren: THE NEXT FLAVOR IS A NEW ENGLAND FLAVOR THROUGH AND THROUGH.

IT'S CALLED "FROZEN PUDDING."

Narrator: DICK OWNS AND RUNS A PLACE ON CAPE COD CALLED "FOUR SEAS."

IT'S A SUMMER-ONLY PLACE.

DICK MAKES ALL THE ICE CREAM HERE EARLY IN THE MORNING.

Warren: THE REAL BOTTOM LINE IN ICE CREAM, I FEEL, IS FLAVORING.

AND MOST PEOPLE, IF THEY SHARPEN THEIR PENCIL A LOT, THEY'RE NOT GONNA SPEND THE MONEY ON FLAVORINGS AS MUCH BECAUSE THEY'RE LOOKING FOR PROFIT.

YOU KNOW, I'M NOT SAYING I'M NOT LOOKING FOR PROFIT, BUT I'M LOOKING FOR A TASTE.

IN FACT, I'VE ALWAYS SAID, WE DON'T HAVE FANCY NAMES FOR ICE CREAM.

WE DON'T CALL IT "CHOCOLATEY CHOCOLATE" OR "VANILLA BEAN"... OR "COOKIE GOOKIE" OR WHATEVER.

IF YOU CAN'T TELL IT'S CHOCOLATE WHEN YOU TASTE IT'S CHOCOLATE HERE, THEN THERE'S SOMETHING MISSING.

Narrator: AT FOUR SEAS, THEY DO MAKE SOME UNUSUAL LOCAL FLAVORS.

Warren: ONE OF OUR FLAVORS THAT'S STRICTLY NEW ENGLAND, TOO, IS PENUCHE PECAN, WHICH IS A FUDGE -- A BROWN-SUGAR-BASED FUDGE THAT EVERYBODY THAT GREW UP IN NEW ENGLAND'S GRANDMOTHER USED TO MAKE -- PENUCHE FUDGE.

Narrator: WELL, THE DISTINCTIVE FLAVORS ARE GOOD REASONS TO STOP HERE, BUT EVEN THE BUILDING IS AN ATTRACTION.

Warren: THE BUILDING ITSELF HAS CHANGED VERY LITTLE SINCE 1934 WHEN THE BUSINESS STARTED.

ORIGINALLY IT WAS A BLACKSMITH'S SHOP.

IT'S THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE, WOULDN'T YOU SAY?

A CAPE COD TRADITION.

IF I'D KNOWN ABOUT THIS PLACE EARLIER, I WOULD HAVE BEEN HERE MANY TIMES.

SIT.

Man: I COME HERE EVERY SUMMER, AND I THINK THIS PLACE IS FABULOUS.

I'M AN OLD DUDE, AND I HOPE TO LIVE ANOTHER 100 YEARS BECAUSE OF THIS ICE CREAM.

CUT HIM OFF.

Man: KATIE, WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE?

I DON'T KNOW.

I LIVE RIGHT DOWN THE STREET.

I COME HERE EVERY OTHER NIGHT.

SCOOP SIZES ARE ON THE WALL.

WE HAVE A SMALL, WHICH IS $1.50.

WE HAVE A LARGE -- THAT'S $1.70.

AND A DOUBLE, WHICH IS TWO SMALL SCOOPS FOR $2.40.

THAT'S THE DIFFERENCE.

THERE'S NO MEDIUM.

THAT'S FOR THE PEOPLE WHO LIKE BOTH KINDS.

THIS IS A PETS AND TOTS CONE.

RED IS THE TOT SCOOP, THE SMALL SCOOP, AND THAT'S SMALLER THAN THE SMALL.

THE BLUE IS THE SMALL SCOOP.

AND THEN WE HAVE THIS POINTED SCOOP, WHICH IS KIND OF RARE AT FOUR SEAS.

I'VE NEVER SEEN IT ANYWHERE ELSE.

AND THAT'S THE LARGE SCOOP.

PROBLEM IS -- THESE KEEP BREAKING ON US, AND WE CAN'T GET ANY MORE OF THEM, SO WE'RE KIND OF HOPING THAT THEY LAST A LONG TIME.

IT'S MINT CHOCOLATE CHIP.

IT'S PINK, BUT IT'S GREAT!

IT'S VERY, VERY RICH, THOUGH.

I FEEL THE WEIGHT GOING ON RIGHT NOW.

IT'S NUMBER ONE.

ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY NUMBER ONE.

THIS IS THE HOME OF JACKIE O. UH, EVERYBODY FROM, LET'S SEE, FROM BOB HOPE TO UM... CARLY SIMON, LEE REMICK, OF COURSE WHO LIVED HERE, GENE RAYBURN LIVED IN OSTERVILLE, AND THESE WERE ALL REGULAR KIND OF CUSTOMERS BUT... I DON'T KNOW.

THE KENNEDYS, OF COURSE.

JACKIE USED TO COME IN QUITE A LOT WITH SECRET SERVICE WHEN HE WAS PRESIDENT -- WHEN JACK WAS PRESIDENT -- AND SHE NEVER CARRIED MONEY WITH HER, AND SHE WOULD BUM MONEY FROM THEM TO PAY.

AND WE HAVE ALWAYS ALLOWED THE KENNEDY FAMILY TO CHARGE.

IT'S OUR ONLY CHARGE THAT WE DO ALLOW.

JACKIE'S FLAVOR WAS DEFINITELY PEACH.

Narrator: WELL, WHETHER YOU SEE A CELEBRITY OR NOT, FOUR SEAS IS JUST A GREAT PLACE FOR PEOPLE-WATCHING.

AND WE FOUND OUT THAT IF A GUY BEHIND THE COUNTER SAYS "CHECK VANILLA," IT MEANS A BEAUTIFUL GIRL JUST WALKED IN.

SOMETIMES, YOU HAVE TO DISGUISE IT.

IT GETS PRETTY EASY TO FIGURE OUT WHEN YOU SAY "CHECK VANILLA" AND ALL THE GUYS LOOK AROUND.

YEAH, EVERY SINGLE GUY IN THE PLACE STOPS WHAT HE'S DOING AND TURNS AROUND.

WHEN GIRLS SEE A GOOD-LOOKING GUY, THEY SAY "CHECK BANANA."

SO... THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN LIKE MY FAMILY, MY EXTENDED FAMILY BECAUSE THEY'RE ALL KIDS THAT ARE LOCAL.

THEY ALL START ROUGHLY WHEN THEY'RE SOPHOMORES AT BARNSTABLE HIGH SCHOOL, WHERE I USED TO TEACH.

Narrator: FOR YEARS, DICK HAD TWO JOBS.

NOW, HE CONCENTRATES ON HIS ICE CREAM SHOP.

Warren: AND NOW, PEOPLE BRING THEIR GRANDCHILDREN HERE, AND THEIR CHILDREN, AND SO ON SO THAT THEY'RE VERY HAPPY THAT FOUR SEAS IS STILL THE SAME LITTLE PLACE THEY REMEMBER.

I THINK IT'S JUST THE FACT THAT IT'S A FUN THING.

IN FACT, THAT'S ONE OF THE THINGS THAT MAKES SERVING IT FUN BECAUSE PEOPLE LIKE ICE CREAM, PEOPLE LOVE LICKING A CONE.

THEY JUST TALK ABOUT IT CONSTANTLY AND TELL YOU HOW MUCH THEY LIKED IT.

Narrator: WE AMERICANS EAT MORE ICE CREAM PER CAPITA THAN ANY OTHER COUNTRY ON EARTH.

IT'S SAID WE EAT ENOUGH EVERY YEAR TO FILL THE GRAND CANYON.

WE ALL LIKE IT A LOT.

IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO PINPOINT WHAT THE SECRET IS -- THE SWEETNESS, THE CREAMINESS, THE FLAVORS, THE WAY IT MAKES US ALL THINK WE'RE JUST KIDS ANYWAY.

AND THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT ALL THESE ICE CREAM PLACES AND PEOPLE THAT'S REASSURING AND SATISFYING, TOO.

IT'S A GREAT PRODUCT.

Woman: HOPE YOU'RE GONNA CLEAN UP YOUR OWN MESS, BOYS AND GIRLS.

Narrator: AND IF IT'S TIME TO CLOSE FOR THE NIGHT HERE, WELL, MAYBE WE CAN GET A CONE AT SOME OTHER PLACE JUST DOWN THE ROAD.

LET'S GO.

"AN ICE CREAM SHOW" WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY... ...AND BY ANNUAL FINANCIAL SUPPORT FROM... "AN ICE CREAM SHOW" IS AVAILABLE ON DVD.

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